PS13 wheel geometry, non drift

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by Gunny, Aug 30, 2016.

  1. Gunny

    Gunny New Member

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    After a bit of advise on my ps13, going Nurburgring in a couple of weeks. It has adjustable front top mounts and stock rear end but I have had it apart and fitted all driftworks poly bushes so it will need setting up again. I know there isn't much adjustment on the stock stuff but any advice would be appreciated to aid towards any achievable 'grip' set up
     
  2. BenRice

    BenRice Well-Known Member

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    S13 rear suspension changes a lot on compression. Negative camber increases and the wheel toe's in.

    To get a better contact patch you can run 1 to 1.5mm of toe-out each side to counter this (more for more suspension travel, less if you have stiffer springs that restrict compression) and run as close as possible to 0 camber as the arms will let you

    Front suspension is a bit trickier as it is more affected by suspension setup & weight. Assuming you're running an SR or CA still, coilovers with 7 or 8kg springs and have lowered it (but not boned) look to run negative 1.5deg camber and around 7.5 caster.

    The front toe is the trickiest as it really is dependent on driving style and the tyre. If you have a sticky tyre don't go outside of +/- 1mm on each side. If you have a more midrange tyre you can push out to +/- 1.5 to 2mm each side

    If you tend to drive aggressively and do 4-wheel slide it on braking on occasions i would be going for toe-out. If you like something snappy on turn in run toe-in. But front toe is the one thing that you will need to just adjust to whatever feels good for you & your setup so is hard to advise on
     
  3. pipcarder

    pipcarder Member

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    Sorry but I would have to disagree with the above advice.

    Toe-out on the rear of a RWD car will result in oversteer, the main reason the suspension gains camber and toe-in under compression is to crate a stable condition. How much camber and toe is required will depend on a number of factors, mainly: power, the weight of the car, weight distribution, how sticky your tyres are, how good the driver is, driving style, roll stiffness, front to rear roll stiffness distribution the track you're driving as well as other things that I won't go into here.

    I recommend you read The Ultimate Guide to Suspension and Handling by Mike Kojima; the link is below. It is one of the best online guides for tin tops and starts from the very basics. make sure to read the comments underneath the article as some good questions are asked and answered.

    The Ultimate Guide to Suspension & Handling

    personally I would start off with something like Mitto suggests for Street/Daily in the sticky thread at the top of the section as a starting point but with a touch of Toe-in.
     

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