TE71 Corolla SR5 - now FOR SALE The story so far... My dad found this gem of a Corolla sat on the front lawn of the ORIGINAL owners house, with 50k on the clock, it was a weekend car and the owner had the chassis treated with Ziebart so no rust, it's solid as a rock!! It's a super rare SR5 model which came with a 5 speed T-50 gearbox mated to a 1600cc 8v 2T-B engine which came with twin Mikuni carb's from Toyota I already had two project cars on the go (S13 and FRST) so a friend of mine who had come along decided on the spot to make an offer (I have been kicking my self ever since! a deal was done and he picked her up a few days later. THEN THE T-CUT CAME OUT!!!! First proper job was new suspension as the stock parts were nearly 30 years old and fell apart in our hands as we removed them! Finding parts are next to impossible! So after some internet research the decision was made to purchase AE86 D2 Coilovers and try them on for size!?!? That's me under the car taking the lip back on the inside of the wheel arch. With minimal work (had to file out the holes in the suspension turrets a little to get the bolts through) they were on board My friend Aaron aka Doc, owner of the car was about to go travelling for 3 odd months so the work stopped here for the time being. Upon his return the search for some wider rim's began, a set of 14 inch split rims where found on ebay stating VW golf fitment and Toyota!? So we arrived at the house, the father took us to the shed out back and said here they are. We took a look at them.. HELLO SSR Formula Mesh 2 piece split rims!!!! The father said they belonged to his son who intended to fit them on his golf but was having trouble so ebayed them, no surprise they were a direct fit for the SR5, and were fitted with a new set of Khumo tires. BRACE YOURSELF! Chassis mod's didn't stop there, next up was a Whiteline front strut brace and Cusco rear brace, along with an adjustable panhard rod a necessity to aline the rear axel after lowering the car. Next up the original unmarked interior which had spent it's life under a set of furry seat covers for protection, was carefully removed. The Doc then removed all the sound deadening from within the already feather weight car to decrease the weight further, the stock engine produced a claimed 100 BHP, although anyone in the know about Toyota would know they power test there engines on a bench without the alternator and other parasitic drag inducing bits and bobs, so the true power was more like 80 BHP. So less weight = better power to weight ratio and best off all it's free! It just requires some time and effort. THE SEARCH FOR POWER! Now the even lighter weight, sure footed SR5 had a sorted chassis along with wider grippier(if thats even a word!?) tires, old Aaron was throwing her about like you wouldn't believe!! Honestly you can be totally stupid with this car in a corner and she will still recover, almost daring you to test her some more!!! An AE86 HKS Hi-power system was ordered in directly from HKS HQ in Japan! To be accompanied by a pair of K&N filters, an Aluminium Fidanza flywheel, double valve springs, stage one clutch and an equal length tubular exhaust manifold Original exhaust HKS Hi Power We pulled out the engine and removed the head to fit the double valve springs along with a fresh head gasket(obviously). Whilst the engine was out the Ziebart was cleaned from the engine bay and then it was given a few coats of matt Black. All the parts were fitted but seeing as the Hi-power was for an 86, it started after where the cat would be. So there no pipe to connect the manifold to the exhaust system. The car was taken to GBH Motorsport near Colchester to have the pipe custom made, whilst it was there it had a panhard rod properly adjusted, the diff oil changed and some other bits and pieces. Once home the car was also treated to a new set of plugs and leads as well as a new dizzy. THE MOMENT OF TRUTH! The car was taken to Bob at T&M's, Colchester (known for his vast knowledge on carb based tunning) He seemed quite excited when he first layed eyes on the old girl. So a day later Aaron gets a call from Bob saying the there was a fault with the carbs, the second det of chokes weren't opening so it wasn't getting the fuel it needed to make power. Unfortunately Toyota only supply parts for cars 25 years old and younger no such luck would be had finding the required parts. They also did a search of cars sold in the UK and said this particular SR5 model must have been imported especially back in the day, bonus on the rarity front! PLAN B! Bob recommended a pair of Weber DCOE 40's! So once an inlet manifold was found via the internet, the car was back with Bob being setup on his rolling road, the result was 100 BHP. Aaron was a little dissapointed as he was hoping for atleast 115-120 BHP. Bob said the cylinder head it's self was restricting the improved air flow from the the exhaust and carbs, he suggested a having it flowed or installing a higher lift camshaft, or for best results go with both. A cam was sourced from the US of A, but was not installed. You see Aaron really wanted 150-160 BHP.We did some research, had many discussions as to cost of parts verses actual power gains, I owned a highly modified Fiesta RS Turbo at the time and Aaron's previous car was a Mitsu Lancer Evo 4, both of which had my favourite ingredient for making more power... Yep, you guessed it.. A turbocharger! During our research we had found out that the 2T-B had a forged crankshaft from the factory and being an older car had a cast Iron engine block. If you youtube turbo 2T you will see examples turbocharged to in excess of 500 BHP! Obviously they have uprated pistons and rods as well as improved valve train parts as the 2T is a push rod engine. The turbocharged route was favoured for a while but by now many thousands had already ybeen spent on the car and to do itr properly as we don't do botch jobs would mean a lorra lorra wonga! Eventually it was decided a 4AGE would be the optimum choice, for many reasons, one being Aaron's liking for 'revvy' engines, by now the 2T-B was revving over 7000 RPM and even higher on heavy down shifts! I have to say the 2T engines are PHENOMENALLY STRONG! It has only broken down once and that was only due to a split aged fuel line... Here is everything forward of the bulk head from an AE86, bought on ebay for... what do you reckon? £200! For the lot! Fair enough it had stood for at least a year or more, so it has been stripped and is currently at the machine shop being cleaned and inspected before being built back up again.. more than likely with a few improvements. Depending on what is made from selling the 2T-B and all it's parts, 40's, Fidanza flywheel, et cetera. THE CAR RUNNING ON 40's - [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwD6Dkjetic"]YouTube - TE71 Corolla SR5. 2TB on Twin Weber 40's!!! AE86 2tc 3tc[/ame] PLEASE VOTE IN THE POLE AT THE TOP FOR WHICH COLOUR TO SPRAY THE CAR ; ) SCROLL DOWN THE THREAD FOR MORE PICTURES AND UPDATES ON PROGRESS
Yes, you're right but once you have added shipping costs it gets very expensive. Especially when they lie about the cost and charge double even though the cost is displayed on the shipping tags!! BRD Racing pulled this stunt twice!
different kind of car, do you have some pics of you skiddign it? kinda like the look of it, in grey it will look so much nicer tho
Like it! Very different, and done right. I'm in a similar situation now, 75 bhp 20 years old car. The twin carbs is the only solution I think, because of budget (shitter-car for 200$, no tools or fabrication ability). In general, if engine have grunt below 5000rpm, but then struggles to give any more power up to the redline, what seems to be the problem? I'm thinking of restrictive ports design, or something camshaft-related. What do you think about it?
Sorry to spam your thread, I think I should start one myself, than spam it myself, heh. Car is veeery unknown to civilized people. It's AZLK 412, or Moskvich 412, or whatever Soviet Union liked to call their cars with strange and unspellable names. These are not actual car photos, but it's what I plan to do within a year. It's a SOHC 1.5. I can tell you bore&stroke if that matters. If you could just give me a couple of ideas how to solve it's "unrevviness", I'd be very thankfull. I can provide any information regardless that engine too.
What is the mileage of the engine? I'm guessing fairly high due the age of the car. If it's done a lot of miles you may want to change the head gasket to make sure the engine has enough compression. Then check the timing as if it's been retarded the engine will not rev and be down on power. Change or clean up your ignition components, spark plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm. Make sure the fuel filter is clean and not restricting fuel flow also that the carb is functioning as it should. Also check the exhaust system for deterioration, if one of the silencers/boxes has broken down inside it could be blocked and causing a restriction. Also check the valve clearences are adjusted correctly. OK, once your certain everything is doing it's job correctly you need to move on to making improvements.. Firstly inlet and exhaust improvements to allow the engine to breath more efficiently, more air in and out faster = more efficiency = more power! A lightened flywheel will also allow the engine to rev easier and increase response. If the valve train meaning everything from the camshaft to the valves and everything in between, is not efficient enough to rev beyond 5000 RPM you will need to improve it, double valve springs or stronger single valve springs will help alot here. FINALLY - Just because a cars rev counter displays say a 7000 RPM redline doesn't mean the engine is capable of reaching it, especially with a car of your age. 5000 RPM may be the realistic limit for the engine to rev too, and this could be why it cannot rev beyond. One more thing - If you decide to change the head gasket, whilst you have the cylinder herad off it would be a good idea to re-lap all the valves as this will assist in maintaining the engines compression.
Also an engine has a point in the rev band where it reaches peak power, after that the power will usually decrease so revving further just for the sake of it is pointless. For instance my SR20DET powered Nissan Silvia peaks around 6400 but the engine will rev to 7000 RPM. The 'drop off' in power is very noticable in 3rd gear, it pulls harder and harder then once it goes beyond peak BHP you can feel pulling or acceleration begin to decrease. So taking it to the redline serves no purpose.
No problem, any other questions just ask, if I can help I will. I sorted the build thread out earlier, have another peek, let me know what you think?
The drivers door was from another car and had faded far worse and also began to rust. So a new door skin was custom fabricated and fitted, here it is still in primer, the hinges need adjusting slightly as the door has sagged a little, 2 minute job and it'll be sorted.
