Check me out on Facebook: www.facebook.com/luzegarage Chassis/Suspension: S13 E-KRPS13 RHD 1992 SYKO Performance RB25DET Mount Kit for Nissan 240sx S13 non-HICAS rear sub-frame KTS Rear Upper Arms KTS Rear Tension Rods KTS Rear Toe Arms GKTECH Dual Rear Caliper Kit GKTECH/Wilwood Hydraulic Hand Brake Assembly R32 GTR Rear Calipers R33 GTST Rear Calipers & Drum Brakes R33 GTST Front Brakes & Rotors S14 5 Lug swap front/rear Engine: RB25DET R33 S2 block Bore and line hone by JUN Motorsports (86.5mm) OEM crank with Spool Imports oil drive collar, machined/fitted by JUN Motorsports CP-Carrillo 86.5mm 9.0:1 forged pistons Manley H-beam connecting rods ACL main and rod bearings (+0.001" extra oil clearance) Nissan N1 oil pump gears and housing Nissan N1 water pump ARP main studs Nissan OEM Engine Gasket Kit Tomei Oil Galley Orifice / Restrictor CXRacing Radiator OEM Clutch Radiator Fan Head: RB25DET R33 S2 OEM cylinder head Tomei Pon Camshafts, duration: IN,EX 256 Lift: IN,EX 8.5mm #143020 Spool Imports RB25 int/exh springs and moly intake retainers, OEM exh retainers Hand ported exhaust ports and valve chambers Spool Imports oil drain/pressure return to block Raw Brokerage -10AN Valve Cover Press-In Fittings (welded on) Raw Brokerage Valve Cover Bolt Kit Raw Brokerage Exhaust Manifold Stud and Nut Kit Turbo/Int/Exh: Garrett GTX3076R Turbo, .73 A/R T3 Kinugawa exhaust housing Tial 38mm MV-S Wastegate CXRacing Top Mount Manifold, 3mm Stainless, Equal Length Runners OEM Intake Manifold, Converted to Front Facing Plenum OEM Throttle Body CXRacing FMIC Greddy BOV 76mm Stainless Steel Exhaust, Straight Pipe Fuel: Fuel Injector Development 1000cc Bosch EV14 style injectors BPP RB25 fuel rail kit, fits OEM and Greddy style mounts Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator -10 -10 -6 fittings Summit Racing braided SS PTFE lined -8 feed/-6 return lines AEM Ethanol Safe 320LPH fuel pump for in tank / stock cannister Drivetrain: RB25 5MT transmission Drive Shaft Shop NISSAN S13 with RB25 (5-Speed) using Syko Mounts / ABS / Aluminum driveshaft ACT NS3-XTG6 6-Puck XT Clutch Kit 90-98 RB20-RB25 R32/R33 Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel Nismo 2-Way LSD w/5 bolt shafts Electronics: Wiring Specialties RB25DET Universal Harness AEM 30-6620 Series 2 Engine Management System AEM 30-2400 Boost Control Solenoid Kit AEM 30-2130-50 50 PSIA or 3.5 Bar MAP Sensor Kit AEM 30-2010 Air Inlet Temperature Sensor Kit AEM 30-4406 35psi Digital Boost Gauge PLX-M O2 Wideband Kit AC Delco D585 LS LQ9 Coil Pack Conversion Suspension: 17x10 +12 5zigen Front Wheels, 255/40/17 Tires 18x10.5 +15 Rear Wheels, 285/35/18 Tires R32 Tein "Drift" Spec Rear Coilovers HKS Front Coilovers Interior: NRG 2.5 version quick release hub NRG carbon fiber steering wheel NRG S13 short hub adapter S15 Seats Aero/Exterior: S14 Kouki Front End Swap
(initial post #1, moved) Hey guys. I'm new to this scene but I'm hitting the ground running. My last build was a Dodge Neon SRT-4 that basically taught me everything I know about cars. I was putting down 600whp through a completely built power train. I had about 60,000 USD in the car in 4 years. Car was setup for time attack. I was sad to see it go, but I parted it out because I moved to Okinawa, Japan. So now I'm building a 180sx with an RB25DET swap. I plan on taking the car back to the states eventually so I will have to go back to stock beforehand. I have to keep any radical modifications to a minimum as I will have to keep it swappable. Basically that means the turbo/manifold, fuel system, exhaust, and ECU will have to be swapped out and back in as needed to pass customs. My goals for this build are 600-650whp with a wide power band that hits early on. I don't think a light weight time attack car needs a terrible amount of top end power, as it's mostly about coming out of corners and requires a good amount of torque early on, right? So anyways that's what my last build was going for and that's what I'll continue to go after. So far this is what I've got: ** AFAIK all of this came out of a 1996 R33 GTR w/93k kilo** RB25DET S2 short block cylinder head, cams, cam gears RB25 5 speed manual transmission engine bay wiring harness ECU S2 individual coil packs alternator intake manifold fuel rail injectors throttle body exhaust manifold o2 housing downpipe OCR single disk clutch misc sensors and stuff All of that was purchased for 400 USD and the guy helped me hump it all into my garage. May I never have to do that again. After I pulled everything apart, I found the cylinder head had 5 broken off studs in the exhaust side. I'm going to take it to a shop and see if I can get them removed. I don't feel like messing with it. If not I will have to buy a new head. Cam cap studs were also seized in the holes on about 3/4 of the cam caps. They're soaking right now so that won't be a problem. Still may end up buying a completely different head though. Clutch flywheel had about 40% of the teeth damaged by what I'm assuming was the starter. That's going in the garbage. The block looks pretty good actually, no damage that I can see. Cylinders look good. Pistons have a little surface rust, but none on the walls. (cylinder head and short block came separated, hence the surface rust). Everything else in the list looks immaculate. I had some parts left over from my SRT-4 build that are going into this build: Garrett GTX3076r Turbo w/tial v-band .63AR exhaust housing (only 500 miles on it) Magnafuel 625 EFI Pro Tuner in line pump and dual MF fuel filters Aeromotive FPR w/PTFE SS braided lines, -8 feed -6 return Hellmann sump with -8 and -6 port fittings for feed/return APR GTC-200 carbon fiber wing ZG wide body carbon fiber fender flares AEM digital 35psi boost gauge AEM wideband o2 sensor/gauge Sparco 2.5 version quick release hub Sparco carbon fiber steering wheel I realized that I wasn't going to be able to reuse the turbo with that exhaust housing so I did some research and ended up finding a needle in the haystack: ATP Turbine Housing, T4 Divided inlet 3" V-Band outlet, 1.06 A/R for GT3582R/GTX35, Alternate_GT/GTX3076R_60mm_TurbineWheel So with that, I plan on mating it to the rawbrokerage twin scroll manifold they make which has clearance for this particular swap. That's what I got initially. Now, this is what I've ordered so far for the swap: Engine rebuild components: Nissan OEM Engine Gasket Kit - RB25DET Nissan N1 Water Pump - RB25 RB26 RB30 CP Pistons / Manley Rods Combo R33 RB25DET, Piston Option: 86.0mm / 9.0:1 Manley Rod Option: H-Beam Add ACL Race Main Bearings? +0.001" Extra Oil Clearance Add ACL Race Rod Bearings? +0.001" Extra Oil Clearance Add extended crank collar? Yes Add ARP head studs? Yes Add ARP main studs? Yes Nissan N1 Oil Pump - RB25DET RB26DETT Tomei Oil Galley Orifice / Restrictor - RB20 RB25 RB26 RB30 Nissan OEM Crank Gear RB20 RB25 RB26 Raw Brokerage Crankshaft Woodruff Key (Half Moon) - RB20 RB25 RB26 RB30 Other stuff: SYKO Performance RB25DET Mount Kit for Nissan 240sx Drive Shaft Shop NISSAN S13 with RB25 (5-Speed) using Syko Mounts / ABS / Aluminum driveshaft Raw Brokerage Exhaust Manifold Stud and Nut Kit RB20 RB25 Raw Brokerage -10AN Valve Cover Press-In Fittings RB20 RB25 Raw Brokerage Valve Cover Bolt Kit RB20 RB25 RB26 Wiring Specialties Pre-Made RB25DET Into RHD S13 180sx Engine/Trans Harness Combo (Transmission: Manual (5-Speed), Injector Subharness: None, Coilpack Harness: Series 2 Coilpacks, Air Flow Meter: Stock MAF) I still need to source an oem MAF and GTST R33 front crossmember and transmission crossmember, but those are cheap and very easy to find here in Japan. I also need to get an oem turbo since it didn't come with my pile. I probably need a lot more misc sensors and stuff but I'll get to that. The plan moving forward: I will not be buying a chassis until I have everything built and ready to go in. I am not trying to go into debt on another project car so I'm going to get things as I can this time. I can see this taking about 8-12 months to get everything ready to go in, then I'll get a chassis. First assembly will be the rebuilt block with forged internals, oem head and cams, oem fuel system, oem intake/exhaust system, twin disk clutch (probably spec r-trim mini twin), oem ecu, oem maf. I want to get all of that installed and running properly so I can take it for inspection and get the engine swap officially added to the title. I need to do that to take it back to the states later. I think this whole process should be complete within the year. After I get the car running and legal, I will build the cylinder head, install the turbo/manifold, aem ecu, fuel system, and start tuning. Ordered a lot of tools I was missing today as well. Girlfriend's cousin (Japanese, speaks no English) coming to look at my cylinder head on the 6th to see if he can fix it up for me, get the broken bits out, etc. He owns a shop supposedly. Heh, it really would have been cheaper to pay someone to hone and clean my block up but oh well. I think in the long run I'd rather have done it all myself for once. Waiting to hear back from Spool about their crank collar and some oil plugs, and their cylinder head oil fitting that returns to the block. Guess they're on holiday til tomorrow. Raw Brokerage was on backorder for a lot of the stuff on my list so I said nevermind, and am looking elsewhere. Hopefully the packages start coming in soon! I had a chance to pickup a FREE 1993 s13 chassis yesterday, completely stripped out though. No wheels/struts or anything, AND the interior was completely stripped - no seats etc. I had to pass. 1. It wasn't a 180sx (I prefer the fast back), and 2. moving it would have sucked. Oh well. Keep looking. Picked up some handy stuff for the cherry picker, making my life so much easier.
SYKO conversion mount kit w/exhaust elbow came in today. Picked up two more benches and a table top 4 ton shop press.
Cylinder head went to the shop last night. They said these studs are pretty hard to get out though and they might not be able to do it. We'll see. Also confirmed that cncport.com does not have an RB25 program. Shame.
I removed 8 broken head studs from an RB with a centre punch, cobalt drill bits and e-z outs with a hand drill. Wasn't too bad at all!
Well, I'll give it a shot! I'll practice on this head because I'm basically chalking it up as trash. I'll just practice rebuilding on it etc. Found another complete head and block for 350 USD so I'm gonna buy it. I got an email from JUN motorsports in Japan and they quoted 112,000 jpy (950 USD) for a full head refresh/machining. I am still waiting for reply back about a race port and assembling with my supplied parts. Got some teardown and cleanup done last couple days. Got the crank collar in from spool imports, but I can't find a shop in Okinawa to machine my crank. Shipping from mainland US would cost 690 USD. The struggle continues. Cylinder head oil return and plugs from spool imports:
Hellman Performance sump threaded up and ready to go. 1/2 NPT to -8 AN feed line, 1/2 NPT to -6 return line.
Ordered some stuff last night for my oil return system. The oil return fittings used on this block are ridiculously hard to find conversions for online. I'm sure I could have found them inside Japan quite easily at the hardware stores but I got lazy. From pegasusautoracing: 3230 -12 -12AN: 1x 3/4 BSP Male to 12AN Male Adapter, Aluminum From summitracing: SUM-220125-B: 1x Fitting, Flare Reducer, Female -12 AN to Male -10 AN, Aluminum, Black, Each AER-FBM2284: 1x Fitting, Tee, -10 AN Female, -10 AN Male, -10 AN Male, Aluminum, Blue, Each SUM-2200079B: 3x Fitting, Hose End, Tube Adapter, Straight, Female -10 AN Hose to 5/8 in. Tubing, Aluminum, Black Anodized,Each RUS-640180: 1x Fitting, Coupler, 90 Degree, Female -10 AN to Female -10 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Each SUM-2200080B: 1x Fitting, Hose End, Tube Adapter, Straight, Male -10 AN Hose to 5/8 in. Tubing, Aluminum, Black Anodized, Each FRA-495105-BL: 1x Fitting, Straight, Male -10 AN to Straight Cut Male -8 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Black Anodized, Each So the plan is to use 5/8" solid aluminum tubing for my spool imports cyl head oil return back to the block where it wil be Tee'd to the 5/8" aluminum tubing from the turbo oil drain and attached to the block with the 12 AN to 3/4 BSP fitting. I'm doing this instead of using rubber lines or ss braided because of some bad experience I've had in the past with custom made exhaust manifolds and the placement of turbos which interfere with soft melt-able lines. I rather just don't deal with it and do it right the first time.
Honed the block tonight using a flex-hone ball hone and WD-40. This is the hone on cylinder 1 from 4 angles, the rest pretty much look the same:
JUN motorsports in Tokyo quoted me 20,800 JPY (176 USD) to machine my crank and attach the collar, and ship it back to me. I guess that's not bad. Stateside it's about 125 USD + shipping, so that's not really far off. Good stuff. Will be shipping it out tomorrow.
Ex wife shipped my driveshaft to me yesterday, haha. Damn military address shipping restrictions. Glad we don't fight!
Man you're lucky to have any chassis I still don't have one. Looking for just the right pile of trash to get cheap so I can tear her down. I run out of stuff to do in the garage because I'm basically just waiting for mail all the time. If I had a chassis at least I could always be wrenching, sanding, painting, fabricating, something.
Update: only cost me 25 dollars (2916 yen) to ship the crank via boat to tokyo from okinawa, and it will only take 7 days. I love Japan so much. They just picked it up from my house after calling within 30 minutes.
Picked up a new cylinder head last night, front and rear crossmembers, for 20,000 yen. Good stuff. Next is to bust some rust off the xmembers and refinish them, and send the head off to Tokyo.
Got the aluminum driveshaft in the mail yesterday. Boom! Also got the 3/4 BSP to -12 AN fitting for my block/oil return system.
Awesome man. JUN got mine finally and e-mailed me about it. Will have it back soon. Edit: This seller flaked out on me and ended up not selling the chassis to me. Guess he realized how serious I was about rebuilding the car and knew that I would see how fucked up the chassis was underneath sooner or later.
