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Old 10-02-2007, 11:31   #41 (permalink)
damo_s13
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looking good mate
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Old 10-02-2007, 13:37   #42 (permalink)
Mad Cas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
An alloy Prop??

Correct me if im wrong anybody? Will this only last 5 minutes of drifting??
Alloy props are fine, there are carbon fibre props too. Sure if you land the car floor first on something the prob will break much easier than a steel one, but because the power is transmitted along it (torsional force) its not a problem, and the reduced weight means there is less mass for the engine to turn (same concept as having a lightened flywheel)
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Old 10-02-2007, 20:02   #43 (permalink)
Dori Mat
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nice project looks like a lot of work going into it

good colour choice too
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Old 11-02-2007, 19:51   #44 (permalink)
suprmek1
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Been a crap weekend with the weather none the less got a fair bit sorted. Now put 5 sud hubs on the rear and the sus-arms. Removed the diff and stripped it ready for the nismo one on its way. Got another set of alloys sorted. Got seat rails sorted and coilovers sorted. Cut hell out of the rear arches hehe i like my grinder got overfenders coming so gives my rims more clearence plus its a few more kilos gone . Got all new brake pipes being made up makes them look prityer and the old ones were shagged.

Ill get the rest of the pics soon as my phones broke
standard suspension


Cut around arch outter skin.


pealed back outter skin and ripped it off

slit up the inner arch and until it was bent out around the rear wing.


Cut down flaps to a tidy finish so they just hold on to the wing crimpped tight with pliers. Need to clean off the paint to weld it up and seal it with mastic them paint it with some hammerite to stop rust.


sus-arms on and 5 stud done, waiting for coilover to arrive.

Rear 5 stud is very easy to do if you need hel PM me or do a search there must be pleny of threads on it allready and the arms are a simple swap. Just remember to lubricate everthing really well and to clean it all up. i havent worried about cleaning the sub frame etc as i plan on making a tubular one inb a few months.

Last edited by suprmek1 : 11-02-2007 at 19:54.
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Old 24-02-2007, 13:29   #45 (permalink)
suprmek1
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been busy doing loads so havent updated till now.

Ive dropped the car off at DME for the roll cage to be fitted dropped my dash off to be flocked and picked up a few bits off my dad.

I've pollished the valves up this is a very tedius job but its worth the effort.
I used a high speed 500W drill put the valve in the drill (dont tighten the chuck to tightly just enouhg to grip it so not to mark the valve). I perched the drill pointing up and pressed play (locked it on run) first I used a die grinder to take of the numbers and larger markings of the valve face. Then I worked my way down using 80 120 240 400 600 1200 grit paper to get a mirror finish.
The reason for doing this is it helps keep the heat in the combustion gasses improving efficiancy and giving a slight gain in power. It also removes any hot spots from the rough finish on the valves reducing the chance of det.

standard, stone, 80 grit, 240 grit.


Then using the drill and carbide bits I carefully started removing the squish areas keeping to the original shape/slope of the combution chamberout till the edge of the bore using the old HG as a marker.
before

after


Then I used soft stones to get it more accurate and to take off the casting marks in the combustion chamber.


Then went down to 120 grit.


I'm taking it to the machinist to get the head skimmed now £20 and then havint the bore cut 1.5 mm deep into the head then ill mathch the chambers and fully polishing it in down to 1200 grit.

well I've decided to remove the squish areas to gain the performance I want as i want the extra dis-placement and have had custom pistons made to keep the CR I intend on having not going to tell you all the figures till its been done

My new wheels set 2


My coilovers


My seat subframes

Ive also built up my diff and fitted my pistons but ill put all that up later on.
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Old 24-02-2007, 16:49   #46 (permalink)
Chris_200SX
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good thread, nice to see your doing it all your self

cant wait for the finished item, btw when are you expecting this to be finished?
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Old 24-02-2007, 20:15   #47 (permalink)
suprmek1
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fingers crossed 3-4 weeks should be running then got to run it in want to be at round 1 of euro drift for its first run
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Old 28-02-2007, 22:39   #48 (permalink)
suprmek1
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Built up my nismo diff now, will be cleaning and painting the casing soon.



Remove the back plate.


Remove the dif assembly. swap over the final drive gear use lock tight on the bolts.


fit new assambly and shim up to the correct settings as in the service manual.


Had to create my own gasket for cost and ease. To make it I used some hylomar sealant to stick the gasket paper to the casing then you use the ball end of a hammer to hit around the egde to cut the gasket into shape.




layerd on some more hylomar to seal the casing up nicely.


Then bolted the case back together

Few more parts arrived

Last edited by suprmek1 : 28-02-2007 at 22:48.
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Old 20-03-2007, 00:35   #49 (permalink)
suprmek1
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getting there now been to busy to update as of yet but heres a few pics i got.

roll cage going in




Dash all flocked by woody13 on Sxoc done an awsome job looks brilliant pics dont do it justice. cut and trial fitted it round the cage ill get few pis of the fit later some time.




inerior is sprayed hammerite matt silver painted with brush first to get a good coat then 2 spray cans to finish it nicely. trimmed the door cards round the cage will be finishing them neat and flocking them in not to long.


rewired the wole car removing all the un-needed wires heated window rear wiper airial central locking and so on repositioned the ECU too. removed all the tape and cable tied the wires together much neater.




trial fitted seats and harnesses should of got pics but will get some soon got chequer plate for the floor coming and roll cage padding. removed all the front sus and clened of rush hammerited the arches. removed washer bottle to inside the car.






will get better pics up and write everythijng up better when all done fingers crossed ill be at round 1 eurodrift but looking iffy at the mo.
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Old 21-03-2007, 02:05   #50 (permalink)
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how much was the dash flocking?
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Old 21-03-2007, 02:51   #51 (permalink)
Cyruz
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Maybe I'm wrong but I swear I heard your not ment to polish valves to mirror finish, more of a dull gleam, but I could be talking out my arse.



Quote:
Originally Posted by m20 head rebuild guide
To regrind a valve, the procedure is actually very simple. Take a small dab of the fine grinding paste and cover the rim of the valve with it. Next place the valve in the correct port on the upturned cylinder head and stick the grinding stick to the valve. Now simply rub the stick back and forth between your hands to grind the two surfaces together. Keep checking and add more paste if necessary. Stop once you see both surfaces (the valve and the head) have a smooth dull grey finish. Repeat for all 12 valves.

Last edited by Cyruz : 21-03-2007 at 02:55.
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Old 21-03-2007, 22:17   #52 (permalink)
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cyruz:- are you talking about the valve faces or lapping in the valves?

suprmek1:- are you moving the fuse boxes aswell whilst you hacking up the loom, if so where are you putting them?
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Old 21-03-2007, 22:26   #53 (permalink)
topi
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The valve face should be blinging, though obviously they will need lapping in.
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Old 22-03-2007, 00:14   #54 (permalink)
suprmek1
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valve faces only to be bling contact isnt. i was ging to move the fuses to the centre but its not worth the hassle so just cableting them back up.

Dash was £150 with all the centre done to got to go pick it up soon.

will get a load of pics up at the weekend unfortunately not guna have the wide wings in time so wont look to good for round 1 if i even get it ready to run so much to do so little time

Last edited by suprmek1 : 22-03-2007 at 00:18.
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Old 22-03-2007, 00:36   #55 (permalink)
Old Skool Cars
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Great work chief! just read all the thread and it really kept me interested from start to finish. keep up the good work and dont rush it dude just cos time is pushing on....the work u have done so far is top notch so do it once and do it rite. you will be a lot happier when u are finished.....hurry up and get some pics!
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Old 22-03-2007, 17:58   #56 (permalink)
mammoth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suprmek1
i was ging to move the fuses to the centre but its not worth the hassle so just cableting them back up.
ah, i was gonna move mine behind the glove box to keep them out of the engine bay. then cut the back out of the glove box so when it opens it reveals the fuse boxes.
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Old 22-03-2007, 23:52   #57 (permalink)
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oh i was thinking of the other fuse boxes yes was thinking of that for them but short on time.

Just guna get this one raceable for now got another shell im picking up on mondat and got alot bigger plans for it not guna hold back at all on it.
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Old 24-03-2007, 21:18   #58 (permalink)
suprmek1
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front suspension rebuilt




cage painted and finished off well for now got padding to fit tomo and all the interoir will go in then a new screen in the week. welded in eye bolt supports all rewired.






more to come tomorro
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Old 25-03-2007, 21:44   #59 (permalink)
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dint get to many pics today but the interior is all in fire extinguisher is fitted picking up a spare engine and shell later tonight got another 800 mile round trip but its all good. window fitter coming this week guna make some poly windows for the rears and doors should be running soon.





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Old 28-03-2007, 17:31   #60 (permalink)
driftnut
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Man that is some awesome work! Why didnt i do mechanics or even be more mechanically minded!

NOOOOO i had to choose Carpentry... Wooden drift car just wouldnt work!

Still after my Learner drift car too.
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