Taff*tune E30 Touring

[Jimthejunior]

Originally Posted by sideways.taff

Can you get wellers in 15x10?

15x11.5

[Cyruz]

I'm going to go ahead now and say, stop it!!! You need that engine to arrive so you can stop messing with the e30!

[Dori Mat]

nice shape arches dude

[sideways.taff]

Braaaappp braap braaaaap

[d-anie-l]

sweeeeeeeet.
sell it to me.

[Dori Mat]

hahaha that engine really needs to get there fast before you get (even more) carried away

[sideways.taff]

....

[Jimthejunior]

Ls7 in the e30 miiiiiiiiint.

M30 powarrrrz.

I need to crack on upgrading the powers in mine

Looking good as evarrr

[Hammond]

S50??

[MJG]

SNUG. That's the word to describe the fitment of it on the pallet lol.

You'll want to hammer out where the bulkhead goes into the tranny tunnel as much as possible, especially where the clutch rest is as the exhaust clearance is tight there. Also hammer out where the back of the cyl head is going to sit so you can get it fitted nice and far back. I re-made my brake and clutch lines that go across the bulkhead to allow closer fitment to it with the back of the head. I suggest you try and fit the engine fairly high up if you want ground clearance, just might have to spacer the bonnet or cut out the strengthening at the front edge or over the inlet manifold etc. I'm going to try and lift the engine as much as I can before the gearbox hits (probs not far) as my ground clearance for the car needs to be as close to zero as possible.

[MJG]

It's m30b35, aka 3.5 from 5/6/7 series cars. 220bhp/lbft, heavy boat anchor engine, fairly durable unless you give them to me it seems.

[sideways.taff]

Originally Posted by MJG

SNUG. That's the word to describe the fitment of it on the pallet lol.

You'll want to hammer out where the bulkhead goes into the tranny tunnel as much as possible, especially where the clutch rest is as the exhaust clearance is tight there. Also hammer out where the back of the cyl head is going to sit so you can get it fitted nice and far back. I re-made my brake and clutch lines that go across the bulkhead to allow closer fitment to it with the back of the head. I suggest you try and fit the engine fairly high up if you want ground clearance, just might have to spacer the bonnet or cut out the strengthening at the front edge or over the inlet manifold etc. I'm going to try and lift the engine as much as I can before the gearbox hits (probs not far) as my ground clearance for the car needs to be as close to zero as possible.

The car wont be as low as you're going though because I won't be able to tuck the 15x11j et-10's under the rear arches lol! So the height wont be too bad, I'll have a sump guard under there too though. I'll be redoing the clutch and brake lines anyway as I need to redo the brakes anyway to plumb the hydro wand in.

The bonnet will be held in with 5 bonnet clips too because I've taken the bonnet catch out and thrown the hinge away

I'll hammer the transmission tunnel though to get it as far back as possible, the heater is going too as I'll be getting a heated front screen at some point so wont need the heater to demist so I may be able to bash the bulkhead a bit more.

I'll probably end up getting a new rad made too and sit it infront of the slam panel, not 100% sure how it'll work yet but I want a bit more clearance between the distributor and the rad for peace of minds sake.

[Karan]

hammer too much and ull encroach upon the brake bar that runs to the servo/m/c from the pedal in the car, i did that and then had to remove my dash to unbend it

not that u need to be told that lol

[Karan]

what front lip is that mate?

[sideways.taff]

Originally Posted by Karan

hammer too much and ull encroach upon the brake bar that runs to the servo/m/c from the pedal in the car, i did that and then had to remove my dash to unbend it

not that u need to be told that lol

Yeh I had thought about that but if I mess it up I've always got a spare pedal box that I can thow in there anyway

[sideways.taff]

Originally Posted by Karan

what front lip is that mate?

Cant remember what it is now, its some ebay special.. needs a bit of work to bring it up to my spec...hahaha. Its completely open at the back so I'm going to box it in to tidy it up a bit.

[MJG]

Bryn - understandable, I prefer extreme lowness to pokey-outy-ness. Or a nice comprimise. But if I can see daylight under the car when bending down then it's too high.

Shouldn't have to make a new rad btw, mine fitted in OK even in the further forward position, had about 15mm to clear. Think I've got an e24 rad (6er). Now mines 20mm further back due to hammering the bulkhead, so should be fine. That, coupled with remaking the crossmember and slam panel, should mean I've got room to play football in.

Also, you don't need 5 pins. Mine has 4 and has no issues whatsoever.

[sideways.taff]

Anyone know what the little electronic gizmo at the front left of the slam panel is? You can just about see it in the second pic above. Its got two orange/copper?? barrel type connectors things there.

[Karan]

mine doesnt have that thingy

[MJG]

PS - the rear wheel fitment looks retarded with the standard BBS and bubbley tyre combo lol. Should look nice with 15x10 fitted with 205/50/15s though