My RB26 powered JZX81 Chaser - Page 33 - Drifting forum

Storm Chaser · 13-12-2007, 21:04

Nice to have met you today Stav, I am glad to have been able to help, I guess its not very often I can offer good advice or help out so its good that I can sometimes!

floyd · 13-12-2007, 21:29

hi stav, could it be the wiring from injector number 6 to the ecu or perhaps one of the drivers in the ecu, had a similar problem with an s14 i traced the wires back to the ecu and put new wires in and it was perfect, worth a shot, good luck

Stavros · 13-12-2007, 21:35

Hiya mate.

Unfortunatly we checked continuity and resistance on the injectors and they were fine, and even changed the ECU, so almost deffo not that

jonesy-rst · 13-12-2007, 21:58

wot a ncie car nice rocker cover lol nice one

MJG · 13-12-2007, 22:34

Sorry I cba to read all 30pages of this, but did you do a compression test? I'd suspect a mechanical problem if you've tried all of this electrical stuff. Could be a bad seal on a valve, or something broken in the head?

Stavros · 13-12-2007, 23:04

10.5bar all round, spot on, only need to look back the last 3 pages or so to see all the stuff we've done to try n fix it so far.

MJG · 13-12-2007, 23:12

Ah right soz. Hmm ok my only idea is toasted. Just sell the engine shit and stick in a 1J. It wont be off the road for long if you keep it sensible.

You bother with that e30 in the end?

Stavros · 13-12-2007, 23:47

I think a 1J will be a ballache as theyve modded the subframe and allsorts to make the RB fit

Tho its dead tempting to sell it as its worth about 2.5k, but it will mean it goes off the road for a longer time

Didnt bother with the E30, no time to mess with that, and it needed some messing with!

japaneasy · 14-12-2007, 12:45

Good to see she has a window again when are you getting the thing down here bud...?

danbuckjoyce · 14-12-2007, 23:49

Take it to Paul, he will have it fixed in no time~plus we have an airfield we can go out on, oh yeah~that road we shot the pics on, its closed!

In fact move the mag down here, it going off down here right now~its the place to be.

Stavros · 15-12-2007, 15:12

As about the only 2 possible problems left unchecked (as seems we 99% sure its not fuel or ign) are mechanical, ie summat wrong with the inlet, or either the inlet or exhaust valves not opening, ill try check them out myself first, and see whats up.

I was thinking tho, its the dead of fricking winter, surely im better off sorting shit i wanted to do to it NOW, rather than quickly get it on the road, then take it off again a few times later on (when the weathers better and i should be driving it!) for a cage etc etc.

So providing i can find out whats up, i might remove the bits that need fixing or whatever, and send the car off to have a cage while i fix those bits.
Multi-tasking!

Nelo · 15-12-2007, 16:50

Get a woman to help with the Multi Tasking... apparently they're better

Try getting the engine leakdown tested mate.

Stavros · 15-12-2007, 17:01

it shows 10.5 bar accross the cyls, leakdown or no leakdown, itd not run on 5 all the time, surely?

Nelo · 15-12-2007, 18:43

You haven't done a leakdown test yet I dont think. You need a compressor and tester. You can have 10 bar across all cylinders at 1 moment in time with bad leakdown on a cylinder.

gtst lad · 19-12-2007, 10:29

I'm sure you've tried this but thought i'd suggest it as couldn't see it mentioned in the thread.
Have you tried putting the ecu into diagnostic mode to see if it flashes any fault codes?

Stavros · 19-12-2007, 10:41

Not done that, dunno how to be honest, but as we've checked all ign and fuel, its mega unlikly its either.

I finish work for 2 weeks from tonight onwards, so i can finally get the inlet etc off and hope its that.

Ive been told on multi-throttle engines if a air leak is REALLY bad post throttle it can run so lean it wont even run, which makes sense on my car.
Esp as it has always had a mild miss and a high idle, both which could happen with an air leak.

If its not that, well, in screwed, lol.

gtst lad · 19-12-2007, 11:00

Got to be worth double checking as it only takes a few seconds, you can also test whether the cars run lean or rich which could help to tell whether it's an air leak.

Here's a copy and paste

Quote:

Skyline Diagnostics

ECU diagnostics

The ECU is found in the passenger footwell, behind the plastic kickplate to the left of your feet when sitting. Usually you have to remove the computer from the mounts in the footwell, as the LED(s) you need to see is pointing away from you.

Switch on the ignition, but don't start. The LED on the ECU will be glowing.

Turn the selector screw clockwise all the way (gently!)

There are three different types of factory ECU available in Skylines.

One type has two LEDs and five modes

The other type has one LED and two modes

The last type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine check light in the instrument cluster. Acts as a single LED ECU.

For two LED EDU's: the LED will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five. This is the diagnostic mode. Mode 1 = one flash, mode 5 = five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter-clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use.

For one LED ECU's: wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter-clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2.

Note - the engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer.

The LED will flash out a code (or series of codes if there is more than one fault) More recent ECU's have two LED's (red = first digit, green = second digit, eg red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21) The ECU's on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit, eg long, long, short = code 21.

Codes:

11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 MAF sensor circuit
13 Coolent temperature circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition circuit
31 ECU (ouch!)
34 Knock sensor
43 Throttle position circuit
45 Injector leak
51 Ignition circuit
54 Auto signal to ECU
55 All OK

Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal.

There is also a O2 sensor test in real time available - do the above to get the ECU into mode 2 (single LED ECU) or mode 1 (2 LED ECU's) Start the engine. Warm the engine, and then run under no load at 2000 rpm for the test.

Single LEDs: on = lean, off = rich

Dual LED's: green LED on = lean, green LED off = rich

Go by the trend shown, eg mostly on = lean, mostly off = rich. The LED should be flashing between 5-10 times per 10 seconds under normal conditions.

MJG · 19-12-2007, 11:17

Clever shit!

Stavros · 19-12-2007, 11:31

The rich/lean thing wont help really, as its only 1 cyl that will be mega lean.

Not sure if my ECU has a LED, but i bet it wont be linked to the dash light if it hasnt.

It seems to be, if I believe the case writing, originally a RB20 ECU from a Auto Cefiro.

TBH the cars in so many bits at mo, itd prob be quicker to take the inlet off and look, lol.

MJG · 19-12-2007, 11:50

Maybe you should just fit a GTR ecu? Is the problem staring you right in the face there?

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13-12-2007, 21:04	#641 (permalink)
Storm Chaser touge runner Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Brissle,in ther west flangery Posts: 174	Nice to have met you today Stav, I am glad to have been able to help, I guess its not very often I can offer good advice or help out so its good that I can sometimes!

13-12-2007, 21:29	#642 (permalink)
floyd touge runner Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 235	hi stav, could it be the wiring from injector number 6 to the ecu or perhaps one of the drivers in the ecu, had a similar problem with an s14 i traced the wires back to the ecu and put new wires in and it was perfect, worth a shot, good luck

13-12-2007, 21:35	#643 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 10,232	Hiya mate. Unfortunatly we checked continuity and resistance on the injectors and they were fine, and even changed the ECU, so almost deffo not that

13-12-2007, 21:58	#644 (permalink)
jonesy-rst tail slider Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 103	wot a ncie car nice rocker cover lol nice one

13-12-2007, 22:34	#645 (permalink)
MJG e30 of Death Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England Posts: 11,863	Sorry I cba to read all 30pages of this, but did you do a compression test? I'd suspect a mechanical problem if you've tried all of this electrical stuff. Could be a bad seal on a valve, or something broken in the head?

13-12-2007, 23:04	#646 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 10,232	10.5bar all round, spot on, only need to look back the last 3 pages or so to see all the stuff we've done to try n fix it so far.

13-12-2007, 23:12	#647 (permalink)
MJG e30 of Death Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England Posts: 11,863	Ah right soz. Hmm ok my only idea is toasted. Just sell the engine shit and stick in a 1J. It wont be off the road for long if you keep it sensible. You bother with that e30 in the end?

13-12-2007, 23:47	#648 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 10,232	I think a 1J will be a ballache as theyve modded the subframe and allsorts to make the RB fit Tho its dead tempting to sell it as its worth about 2.5k, but it will mean it goes off the road for a longer time Didnt bother with the E30, no time to mess with that, and it needed some messing with!

14-12-2007, 12:45	#649 (permalink)
japaneasy spl dori master Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: holworthy devon Posts: 284	Good to see she has a window again when are you getting the thing down here bud...?

14-12-2007, 23:49	#650 (permalink)
danbuckjoyce spl dori master Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Bristol Posts: 314	Take it to Paul, he will have it fixed in no time~plus we have an airfield we can go out on, oh yeah~that road we shot the pics on, its closed! In fact move the mag down here, it going off down here right now~its the place to be.

15-12-2007, 15:12	#651 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 10,232	As about the only 2 possible problems left unchecked (as seems we 99% sure its not fuel or ign) are mechanical, ie summat wrong with the inlet, or either the inlet or exhaust valves not opening, ill try check them out myself first, and see whats up. I was thinking tho, its the dead of fricking winter, surely im better off sorting shit i wanted to do to it NOW, rather than quickly get it on the road, then take it off again a few times later on (when the weathers better and i should be driving it!) for a cage etc etc. So providing i can find out whats up, i might remove the bits that need fixing or whatever, and send the car off to have a cage while i fix those bits. Multi-tasking!

15-12-2007, 16:50	#652 (permalink)
Nelo Resident Alco Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Alcoville, Ireland Posts: 1,862	Get a woman to help with the Multi Tasking... apparently they're better Try getting the engine leakdown tested mate.

15-12-2007, 17:01	#653 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 10,232	it shows 10.5 bar accross the cyls, leakdown or no leakdown, itd not run on 5 all the time, surely?

15-12-2007, 18:43	#654 (permalink)
Nelo Resident Alco Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Alcoville, Ireland Posts: 1,862	You haven't done a leakdown test yet I dont think. You need a compressor and tester. You can have 10 bar across all cylinders at 1 moment in time with bad leakdown on a cylinder.

19-12-2007, 10:29	#655 (permalink)
gtst lad Ut oh Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Queensland, Australia Posts: 2,141	I'm sure you've tried this but thought i'd suggest it as couldn't see it mentioned in the thread. Have you tried putting the ecu into diagnostic mode to see if it flashes any fault codes?

19-12-2007, 10:41	#656 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 10,232	Not done that, dunno how to be honest, but as we've checked all ign and fuel, its mega unlikly its either. I finish work for 2 weeks from tonight onwards, so i can finally get the inlet etc off and hope its that. Ive been told on multi-throttle engines if a air leak is REALLY bad post throttle it can run so lean it wont even run, which makes sense on my car. Esp as it has always had a mild miss and a high idle, both which could happen with an air leak. If its not that, well, in screwed, lol.

19-12-2007, 11:17	#658 (permalink)
MJG e30 of Death Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England Posts: 11,863	Clever shit!

19-12-2007, 11:31	#659 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 10,232	The rich/lean thing wont help really, as its only 1 cyl that will be mega lean. Not sure if my ECU has a LED, but i bet it wont be linked to the dash light if it hasnt. It seems to be, if I believe the case writing, originally a RB20 ECU from a Auto Cefiro. TBH the cars in so many bits at mo, itd prob be quicker to take the inlet off and look, lol.

19-12-2007, 11:50	#660 (permalink)
MJG e30 of Death Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England Posts: 11,863	Maybe you should just fit a GTR ecu? Is the problem staring you right in the face there?