My RB26 powered JZX81 Chaser - Page 46 - Drifting forum

Stavros · 25-03-2008, 17:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt

thats right stav, they're both x8's so share the dirty bits. theres some changes between the years but almost everything is interchangeable.

x7's are even harder to find bits for!

Mint! I know nothing!

Also, RHD Japan list a pretty big range of F+R adjustable arms for 81s now! They didnt a few months ago when I checked, infact not being able to speak Jap meant I couldnt find anywhere on earth that sold any, thought everyone had just gave up on em, but obv not...

Good times

How thick are the stock 81 F+R ARBs? (tho its prob a mute point, as the K-Mac ones are badass, 27mm F and 21mm rear

)

matt · 25-03-2008, 17:22

theres a guy in canada who's about to start flogging a good range of suspension stuff for cressidas. Serialnine.com is the website but I don't think its up yet

if you register to the cressida forums (super boring place) he's posted some of his stuff on there and it looks reet posh.

**Bon Bon** · 25-03-2008, 17:22

81 front bar is massive, rear is like mitto's cock.

turbo haus touge · 25-03-2008, 18:18

Racing Parts YANACKƒz[ƒ€ƒy[ƒW

check it boyz

JamesAE86 · 25-03-2008, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt

x7's are even harder to find bits for!

no, x3's are hard to find parts for

Stavros · 25-03-2008, 20:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo haus touge

Racing Parts YANACKƒz[ƒ€ƒy[ƒW

check it boyz

ƒŒ[ƒVƒ“ƒOƒp[ƒc-TOYOTA

BillyFIVE · 25-03-2008, 20:52

whoa.. can i join the party

some of those x8 bits look right tasty.

x7 bits are a ballache indeed.. just fell of my chair clicking on this..

SerialNine :: The DOPEST Cressida Parts

an english speaking x7 cool bits site!!

tell me more Matt! pm if you wanna

do any x8 bits fit x7??? i notice the suspension at the front is very similar.

(so far i have sexy rear shocks, up-rated drop links, front and rear cusco strut braces, RCAs, extra lock kit.. not found any front suspension that looks good. have been considering some major swapage at the front as my brakes are so shit too. Even with endless pads

)

BillyFIVE · 25-03-2008, 22:38

hold the phone.. found the dood in canada. sweet mama those x7 bits are noice!

Stavros · 25-03-2008, 22:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillyFIVE

hold the phone.. found the dood in canada. sweet mama those x7 bits are noice!

link me beeeeeatch! he does X8 bits too yeah?

matt · 25-03-2008, 22:58

the guy seems pretty sound who's doing it, but fook knows when any of it will be ready to sell (if ever?) That site has been like that as long as I've had my car

x8 stuff does fit the front of an x7 but only if you replace the entire strut/knuckle/LCA. T3 do all their suspension stuffs for x7's and thats where I got mine from, just need some decent springs making up for the rear ideally.

matt · 25-03-2008, 23:00

YouTube - SERIALNINE @ CellBlockD 8 Drift event 1.

thats the guy. he's posted up most of his stuff on the cressida forum, search for serialnine should turn it up

**Bon Bon** · 26-03-2008, 09:18

We can get those suspension arms guys, I've got all the rear arms on my car, and the adjustable front lower arm conversion kit.. just be prepared to pay the price. lol

FYI...

JZX81
Rear traction arms £200
Rear toe arms £220
Rear lower arms £340
Front tension rods £350
Front tension rod pillowball conversion kit £400

If there ended up being a demand we could get the price down a bit but because they're special order they're dear.

Stavros · 26-03-2008, 10:30

The lower arms Bon, that mean you can widen the track, like you have yeah?

Thats how the kit looked on the site, but putting it thru the translator turned it in to bizzare Engrish so I got mighty confused.

And what advantage to the front adj tension rods do the pillowball conversion kit give?

Cressyslider · 26-03-2008, 10:49

I would imagine that those arms would go from stock length to about -3deg camber, much like mine except mine start at -3 and go out to oni kyan (sp)....demon camber

With standard castor rods (tension rods) you can only squeeze like 8deg out of em, and thats with a frickin big shifter on the nut to crush the rubber. I run 11 with my homemade jobbies heh...also removes any chance of dynamic castor change under brakes etc cuz its a solid mount.
I made mine a little bit different, and a lot more solid

I also recommend this

Bon, do you mind divuldging your settings? if not here, then in PM?

I run front -6deg camber, 11deg castor, 0 toe
Rear 0 camber, 0 toe...will change that to -.75camber and a few mm toe in next alignment though.

**Bon Bon** · 26-03-2008, 11:34

Front lower arm kit you can weld on wherever you want on the arm, mine gives it either lots of camber or insane camber. My track is waaaay wider, so much so that tie rods are actually a problem. I need to chop and weld the rod ends or something, I'm using nissan ones for now but the taper is wrong so it doesn't seem totally happy... errrk.

I've got about 8 degrees castor, 0 toe, something like 4 degrees negative camber. Gives flat contact patch on lock, sounds like you're having to dial too much camber to match too much castor to me? Rear about -0.8 camber, don't recall the toe but it's quite a lot. These are ROUGH figures since I did it ages ago and more on feel than numbers, so I don't 100% remember. Plus my subframe smashed to shit and twisted lately and I had to reinforce and weld it, but the alignment is out now.

245/35/18 federal 595RS front, 265/35/18 595RS rear, ~25psi in the back tyres.

Oh and modified knuckles, been meaning to do that for ages, just fitted an s14 rack which gives quicker steering and easier replacement, so dunno if I'll need to now.

Cressyslider · 26-03-2008, 11:45

Awesome, thanks for the info.
Did the rack go in easy? Or did you need xmember mods?

The track i drift is quite tight and thats the track i learnt on...i kept dialling in the castor to try and get some steering response on tight transitions until it felt nice. Now that i dont have the tendancy to under under as i actually have some skills, i can probably back off the camber though.
I believe the crazy geometry i run has given me more lock...so much so that i have had to cut grooves (and replate) out of my LCA to stop the knuckle hitting it, and it still fkn hits!

No wonder your machine smokes, they're some big bags on the rear!

I had to weld on extenders for my tie rod ends too.

ANTO-VTEC · 26-03-2008, 16:29

SWEET car man........would lose the spoiler though

Dex · 26-03-2008, 16:32

lol, read man, read. spoiler is looooooooooooooooong gone

ANTO-VTEC · 26-03-2008, 16:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dex

lol, read man, read. spoiler is looooooooooooooooong gone

haha the first three pages is all i red when i posted that...........43 more to go hahaha

I see it now! Thats what im talking bout.........NICE!

BillyFIVE · 26-03-2008, 19:14

he's just doing x7 bits by the looks of things. some really nice trick bits. emailed him.. we'll see what happens. those coilover tube things are awesome. it's freaky as i'd been wondering if you could do that.

this is the guys thread Stavros

JZXproject.com ~ View topic - Okay. .. ill join too.

that site has got a lot more going on there. last time i visited that site it was dead. gotta get reading.

CRESSYSLIDER!

hook us up with some links to the x8s in your part of the world

Bon! those bits are hella expensive!

ha ha.. seems like a sound dood..

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25-03-2008, 17:22	#902 (permalink)
matt -NIGHTSPIRIT FAMILY- Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,864	theres a guy in canada who's about to start flogging a good range of suspension stuff for cressidas. Serialnine.com is the website but I don't think its up yet if you register to the cressida forums (super boring place) he's posted some of his stuff on there and it looks reet posh.

25-03-2008, 17:22	#903 (permalink)
Bon Bon Flame On!!!! Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Moseley, Birmingham Posts: 5,164	81 front bar is massive, rear is like mitto's cock.

25-03-2008, 18:18	#904 (permalink)
turbo haus touge me bdc 2009! Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,412	Racing Parts YANACKƒz[ƒ€ƒy[ƒW check it boyz

25-03-2008, 20:52	#907 (permalink)
BillyFIVE no disassemble Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Norwich. I just live here, I ain't no local! Posts: 1,028	whoa.. can i join the party some of those x8 bits look right tasty. x7 bits are a ballache indeed.. just fell of my chair clicking on this.. SerialNine :: The DOPEST Cressida Parts an english speaking x7 cool bits site!! tell me more Matt! pm if you wanna do any x8 bits fit x7??? i notice the suspension at the front is very similar. (so far i have sexy rear shocks, up-rated drop links, front and rear cusco strut braces, RCAs, extra lock kit.. not found any front suspension that looks good. have been considering some major swapage at the front as my brakes are so shit too. Even with endless pads )

25-03-2008, 22:38	#908 (permalink)
BillyFIVE no disassemble Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Norwich. I just live here, I ain't no local! Posts: 1,028	hold the phone.. found the dood in canada. sweet mama those x7 bits are noice!

25-03-2008, 22:58	#910 (permalink)
matt -NIGHTSPIRIT FAMILY- Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,864	the guy seems pretty sound who's doing it, but fook knows when any of it will be ready to sell (if ever?) That site has been like that as long as I've had my car x8 stuff does fit the front of an x7 but only if you replace the entire strut/knuckle/LCA. T3 do all their suspension stuffs for x7's and thats where I got mine from, just need some decent springs making up for the rear ideally.

26-03-2008, 09:18	#912 (permalink)
Bon Bon Flame On!!!! Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Moseley, Birmingham Posts: 5,164	We can get those suspension arms guys, I've got all the rear arms on my car, and the adjustable front lower arm conversion kit.. just be prepared to pay the price. lol FYI... JZX81 Rear traction arms £200 Rear toe arms £220 Rear lower arms £340 Front tension rods £350 Front tension rod pillowball conversion kit £400 If there ended up being a demand we could get the price down a bit but because they're special order they're dear.

26-03-2008, 10:30	#913 (permalink)
Stavros DEYTUKURJURBS Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Posts: 9,769	The lower arms Bon, that mean you can widen the track, like you have yeah? Thats how the kit looked on the site, but putting it thru the translator turned it in to bizzare Engrish so I got mighty confused. And what advantage to the front adj tension rods do the pillowball conversion kit give?

26-03-2008, 10:49	#914 (permalink)
Cressyslider gripper Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 21	I would imagine that those arms would go from stock length to about -3deg camber, much like mine except mine start at -3 and go out to oni kyan (sp)....demon camber With standard castor rods (tension rods) you can only squeeze like 8deg out of em, and thats with a frickin big shifter on the nut to crush the rubber. I run 11 with my homemade jobbies heh...also removes any chance of dynamic castor change under brakes etc cuz its a solid mount. I made mine a little bit different, and a lot more solid I also recommend this Bon, do you mind divuldging your settings? if not here, then in PM? I run front -6deg camber, 11deg castor, 0 toe Rear 0 camber, 0 toe...will change that to -.75camber and a few mm toe in next alignment though.

26-03-2008, 11:34	#915 (permalink)
Bon Bon Flame On!!!! Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Moseley, Birmingham Posts: 5,164	Front lower arm kit you can weld on wherever you want on the arm, mine gives it either lots of camber or insane camber. My track is waaaay wider, so much so that tie rods are actually a problem. I need to chop and weld the rod ends or something, I'm using nissan ones for now but the taper is wrong so it doesn't seem totally happy... errrk. I've got about 8 degrees castor, 0 toe, something like 4 degrees negative camber. Gives flat contact patch on lock, sounds like you're having to dial too much camber to match too much castor to me? Rear about -0.8 camber, don't recall the toe but it's quite a lot. These are ROUGH figures since I did it ages ago and more on feel than numbers, so I don't 100% remember. Plus my subframe smashed to shit and twisted lately and I had to reinforce and weld it, but the alignment is out now. 245/35/18 federal 595RS front, 265/35/18 595RS rear, ~25psi in the back tyres. Oh and modified knuckles, been meaning to do that for ages, just fitted an s14 rack which gives quicker steering and easier replacement, so dunno if I'll need to now.

26-03-2008, 11:45	#916 (permalink)
Cressyslider gripper Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 21	Awesome, thanks for the info. Did the rack go in easy? Or did you need xmember mods? The track i drift is quite tight and thats the track i learnt on...i kept dialling in the castor to try and get some steering response on tight transitions until it felt nice. Now that i dont have the tendancy to under under as i actually have some skills, i can probably back off the camber though. I believe the crazy geometry i run has given me more lock...so much so that i have had to cut grooves (and replate) out of my LCA to stop the knuckle hitting it, and it still fkn hits! No wonder your machine smokes, they're some big bags on the rear! I had to weld on extenders for my tie rod ends too.

26-03-2008, 16:29	#917 (permalink)
ANTO-VTEC doughnutter Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 34	SWEET car man........would lose the spoiler though

26-03-2008, 16:32	#918 (permalink)
Dex kut! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Clogsville Posts: 9,239	lol, read man, read. spoiler is looooooooooooooooong gone