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13-02-2008, 19:04
| #382 (permalink) | |
| dorifto kingu! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: a big lake
Posts: 797
| Quote:
Love this car because it is on a standard engine and it is a daily driver, gives us normal people hope for many powerzz ![]() Imagine how good its going to be when you go forged ![]() | |
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13-02-2008, 21:50
| #383 (permalink) |
| gripper Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
| Well, all good, ive got 3 engines on stand by! My top end will be joining another bottom end soon. I did lie a little, I has Wiseco pistons but everything else was standard. But not to worry I have some HKS pistons waiting to go in. THE MAIN POINT I WANTED TO GET ACCROSS IS THAT I BELIEVE THAT THE RODS WOULD HAVE BEEN FINE BUT THE BOLTS LET GO, iTS COMPLETELY OK THAT THEY DID AS THEY SHOULDNT HAVE HAD TO TAKE THAT KIND OF ABUSE!!! REPLACE YOUR ROD BOLTS AND SEE 500 HP!!! I ran my SR with stock everything with my T88-34D for a month (as a track car) before with no problems (well, I killed 3 gearboxes on the same day trying to get 9 seconds?!) from the engine side. This doesnt mean that your daily running will! I have 4 daily runners and they all die! (because I like to push the envelope!). My spare engine will be in place in a day or two and YES i i will be running the same setup! (just to make sure that the problem it wasnt in the mapping (obviously I will be running a stock block with ARP bolts this time)) Will let you know what happens (Im expecting 650+ HP) |
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14-02-2008, 09:25
| #384 (permalink) |
| touge runner | ouch!!! ive not seen that kinda damage for a long while. the CR bolts are usually the weak point. but kish man.. pushing 500 @ the fly (id guess around 440+ at the wheels on stock rod bolts is asking a bit (hence me deciding on ceiling of 350whp and 350ft ibs when tuning polos mota, as i know he has stock rod bolts. Lets face it, them bolts are wot.... 11 years old. At least you went out with a propa bang dude. i always like to see someone pushing the envelope,just a bit ![]() When polos forged engine is in and the 127k miler is out then ill be more aggressive with the tuning on his SR ;-) |
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14-02-2008, 09:35
| #385 (permalink) |
| touge runner | i believe stock sr rods can take abuse , like you say, I prefer the CA head though, but dont wanna make it a CA/SR thang. like u say though, the stock boxes can only take so much torque before something gives. for most daily tuned cars a well set up 400hp is enough and like yourself kish id only ever change the stock conrods bolts on an SR lump for uprated items. Id spend my money on the metal gasket n the head, all the time as thats where the power gains are to be seen. (in addition to the common breathing mods of course).im looking forward to tweaking my own 14a later in the year (gotta hurry up n finish my little CA first though) |
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14-02-2008, 09:37
| #386 (permalink) | |
| touge runner | Quote:
no worries Stav. a built lump is usually just peace of mind for alot. Standard lumps are still good enough for most. | |
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14-02-2008, 09:39
| #387 (permalink) |
| touge runner | Its time to get it up to spec! will, full spec is here as outlined at the start of the thread and other pics here... .Mac Web Gallery |
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01-03-2008, 00:17
| #388 (permalink) |
| Team Green! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: In the workshop!
Posts: 2,655
| Few bits iv done over the last week or two. ![]() ![]() blasted rear frame ![]() bit of paint ![]() Made these ![]() there nylon bushes for the standard rear lower suspension arm bushes. The standard bushes are actully quite stiff but they alow the arm to move backwords and forwords, these suplement bushes eleminate that(thats the idea any way) Im going to call them Polo's ![]() ![]() this evenings progress! All these nice goddies arived from Apex ![]() ![]() Dropped the rear subframe out ![]() One of the fricking studs snaped! ![]() so i fixed it. ![]() ![]() ![]() cleaned up all the rear end, got rid of all the mud and crap, cleaned all the rusty patchs back to fresh metal etc ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() how i left it today. Back tomorow. |
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01-03-2008, 01:15
| #393 (permalink) | |
| Team Green! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: In the workshop!
Posts: 2,655
| Quote:
Stud repair, what would you have done then? i had the option of finding a shell and grafting a new one in fook that!Cutting it shorter drilling the centre out and taping a thread for a bolt or what i done. if it brakes ill thread it then use a bolt These are the very latest Apex coilevers jen2 mk2, im sure there 100 times better than my 2 year old D2's ![]() | |
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01-03-2008, 01:25
| #395 (permalink) | |
| Team Green! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: In the workshop!
Posts: 2,655
| Quote:
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01-03-2008, 23:49
| #396 (permalink) |
| Team Green! ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: In the workshop!
Posts: 2,655
| some more pics of todays work. cleaned off the rest of the rust, there was loads of it!! Then gave it a good coat schutz. ![]() ![]() Cleaned the fuel tank and the heat sheild. ![]() Pressed the new Apex alloy subframe mounts in. ![]() alloy diff mounts wer in the frame when it was painted. ![]() full set of new brake pipes. ![]() Then fitted the subframe, with loads of copper grease!!!!! not dealing with a snapped stud again! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() No signs left of the common rusty patch up in that gap any more. ![]() Then i chucked the diff in befor i came home, its a freshly painted 3 way ![]() ![]() Finished job pics tomorow |
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