Royals Yellow Banana Rx7!

[Ed]

That carbon bonnet is easily repairable Dave, but you will always be able to see the repair if you wanted to keep it clearcoated.

Paint it, and you'd never know

I'm gonna be down in Kentshire over the next few weekends this month helping a mate build a carbon boat, so if you want me to bring some tools and materials to repair it, just let me know

[project a]

fick the pics it was long time ago

[initial_j]

dave! the barn is getting ridiculous! when i came down last week i couldnt see space for another socket, let alone another shell!

im thinking drop the engine in the banana with the twin tubs then see how it goes, buys you time to get the old engine rebuilt. not like it took us long to get it out. anyway ill pop round and give you a hand soon as.

[retrodan]

dude the threas on the track rod ends are not 1.5 and 1mm one looks like a course thread and the other a fine thread!! may be wrong but loooks that way!!

[peter barber123]

with regards to the lock mate. you can fit a 2.2 mm spacer along with the uras arms whitch gives you about 1-2mm before you smash the rack to pieces

i found this is the maximum you can get without having to play with the hubs and lower arms

[royal]

Originally Posted by turbo-tastic

That carbon bonnet is easily repairable Dave, but you will always be able to see the repair if you wanted to keep it clearcoated.

Paint it, and you'd never know

I'm gonna be down in Kentshire over the next few weekends this month helping a mate build a carbon boat, so if you want me to bring some tools and materials to repair it, just let me know

Cool! Crazydave does a lot of that type of thing as well so may be able to sort it too. The actual mattina is damaged worse than you can see in the phot so not sure of the score. Would be great to fix it up with some scoop holes for cooling and throw it on the car? Either way be good to see you mate for a cuppa

[royal]

Originally Posted by initial_j

dave! the barn is getting ridiculous! when i came down last week i couldnt see space for another socket, let alone another shell!

im thinking drop the engine in the banana with the twin tubs then see how it goes, buys you time to get the old engine rebuilt. not like it took us long to get it out. anyway ill pop round and give you a hand soon as.

Yeah, makes lots of sense that. I've been speaking with Max from Reworx who is a bit of a Rex tuning Guru and he's saying a td06-25g would be good for 400bhp with hardly any lag. I'll drop the twins in and maybe make it non-sequential and put the boost up to get 300, then sort a new turbo if I can sell/swap my one in a few months.

[royal]

Originally Posted by retrodan

dude the threas on the track rod ends are not 1.5 and 1mm one looks like a course thread and the other a fine thread!! may be wrong but loooks that way!!

Its the pre and post 94 models Dan, they have different threads. Looks like I've just gave my mate my ones and I have his from his pre 94.

[royal]

Originally Posted by peter barber123

with regards to the lock mate. you can fit a 2.2 mm spacer along with the uras arms whitch gives you about 1-2mm before you smash the rack to pieces

i found this is the maximum you can get without having to play with the hubs and lower arms

Thats great, thanks Pete, I'll do that. Good to see you yesterday, shame the car is off the road

[crazydave]

i will help you get it on the road and will paint it
then you can drive the rex and i can drive the liner

TEAM DAVE

[royal]

Team Dave for the win, serously! you know you're always welcome to take the skyline out dude, save some petrol money and book a day! We'll get you up to pod in it asap.

[royal]

My mate Crazydave came round to help strip the breaker donar car over the weekend. Top man, cheers dude Here he is confused trying to work out what went there



Engine out. Fingers crossed it actually goes but I don't want to think about it too much! Paperwork I was given with the car bared very little relationship to the actual car! there should be an uprated flywheel and clutch but they both look normal. All the other fancy bits have obviously been removed but it seems strange that these harder to get to bits arn't still there? Hopefully the turbos have been reconned, I didn't get a photo but you can tell that japvillage did actually rebuild it. For starters there are great big screwdriver marks where the rear crank bolts has been knocked around!!! you'd think these people would have the correct size socket if they do rebuilds? I suppose it could have been someone else as well so shouldn't speculate.



Some crazy bugger, who'll remain nameless until the 'official release' of his car, decided he wanted the firewall. Knowing how much of a mission it would be he offerred me some more money to remove it for him. Never again! lol! it took ages to strip all the bits I wouldn't normally bother stripping, dash, aircon, heaters, brake servo etc,etc,etc. Here's my awesome grinding mask; one coke bottle cut in half and wrapped around my face and a camo cloth to stop the metal sparks burning my head and neck!!


The remains of the poor thing after removing the firewall. After this I removed the front and rear subframes, fuel tank, rear bumper and al the other bits that could be handy 'drift spares'. God knows how I'm going to move house next month!:

[Hammond]

pmsl, you do make me roffle dude

[royal]

Right ol mission again today. As usual I'm learning the long and hard way about the ins and outs of how things work. Although I've reshelled several complete cars over the last year, and stripped about five, I've never actually put a clutch in. The times the engines have gone back in have been with the gearbox complete. I probably should have read up a bit but thought I'd just get on with it.
The clutch and clutch cover bolt onto the flywheel so all seemed ok as I stuck the engine into the car and eventually lined it up. I then realised that the (release?) bearing bit was still on the gearbox side. I tried for ages to push it into the clutch by poking screwdrivers through the inspection hole but it wasn't happening (anyone done it?). So off came the engine again and I tapped the bearing into the clutch. Again the engine went on but by this time the engine mount was buggered so had to take it off yet again. I replaced the mount with my solid ones and it was ten times easier to line the engine up then. Should have used them to begin with! Hopefully getting it sorted will go smoothly tomorrow.

While I was trying to work out how it all works I sussed out the 'screwdriver' method of removing it without taking the clutch cover off so I'll take a few photos and stick a howto up if anyone is interested? Only use to Rex people as its a pull instead of push type so unless you know how to do it, you have to remove the whole clutch cover to seperate the engine and box.

Anyhows enough waffle from me, I'm off for dinner.

[Baba]

Wow! Very nice!