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06-03-2008, 07:11
| #41 (permalink) |
| doughnutter | I have never driven with a welded diff on beemer as well.. just have heard of it. And people say it becomes more fragile and car is already just a track car, not recommended in daily driving as welded one will not carry on for long if daily driven.. Might be wrong, just what i have heard. Maybe somebody can share the expierience? ![]() |
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06-03-2008, 07:38
| #42 (permalink) |
| e30 of Death ![]() Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England
Posts: 10,517
| I will give a glimpse of the hundreds of forum pages of information/experiences on welded diffs. If it's welded properly (ie - not by an idiot, and cleaned properly) then it will not break. Slight understeer on turn in, purely due to the rear end having so much grip and it not wanting to break traction. When you force it to break traction you will have a lot of grip and it will be very stable and controllable, but at VERY high angles it's inability to unlock can restrict the recovery that is possible with 2-way diffs. |
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06-03-2008, 14:43
| #43 (permalink) |
| D1 street king Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 906
| What is the difference between street and track? I think as long as they are both made from asphalt, you won't have problems wether you use solid bushes, welded differential, or get too much noise and vibration. Mind you saying that, I saw my neighbour once drove a few meters in his racing car on our estate and it broke down. It turn out that car wasn't designed for street use. |
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06-03-2008, 21:54
| #48 (permalink) |
| tail slider Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Waterford, Ireland
Posts: 80
| the factory LSD as found in an m3 etc isn't nearly tight enough for drift, only have 25% lock as far as i know??? Not much good for drifting really Weld will be reliable for sure and you'll find it much easier to fire the car side ways... |
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11-04-2008, 23:04
| #50 (permalink) |
| dorifto kingu! ![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,332
| so what do we reckon about diffs guys, ive got a open 325 diff here i can get welded or is a m3 diff a big handicap? thing is i would like to use my car for more than just drift but at the same time its priority is to be a drift car, whats going to be best comprimise?welded or m3 lsd? |
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19-04-2008, 23:57
| #54 (permalink) |
| dorifto kingu! ![]() Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Somerset
Posts: 3,281
| M3 evo diff will only easily fit on to a M3 evo as it is bigger than all the other e36 diffs. M3 3.0 diff will fit 323/325/328 if you swap the flanges over (Tee Hee I said flange). 325 lsd is the same as a M3 3.0 lsd just with the right flanges on already. 328i sport lsd is a lazier ratio but will fit fine. So no Evo diff is not crap it just doesnt fit lol. |
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20-04-2008, 00:36
| #55 (permalink) |
| dorifto kingu! Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 562
| I saved this info: The Evo diff is unlike any other E36 diff and as such will only fit the M3 Evo. The Evo is the only E36 to use a typ210 diff compared to the typ188 used by most other 6-pots. If you really want to fit an Evo diff to an E36 you'll also need the Evo diff carrier, drive shafts and rear hubs AFAIK. It's a big job too and you'll need to drop the entire rear end to do the swap. The Evo diff is 3.23:1 whereas your 325 diff (assuming it's a manual) will be 3.15:1. Forget the Evo diff and go for the 3.0 M3 diff (LSD 3.15:1) - it is an almost straight swap....you just need to swap the input + output flanges for your 325 ones. After that it'll bolt right up |
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23-04-2008, 17:13
| #56 (permalink) | |
| doughnutter Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 70
| Quote:
also Comeragh YB e36the factory LSD as found in an m3 etc isn't nearly tight enough for drift, only have 25% lock as far as i know??? Not much good for drifting really Weld will be reliable for sure and you'll find it much easier to fire the car side ways... so whos right?lol ive heard the m3 diff is straight swap with flanges changed, correct. will the m3 diff be alright for drifting. this is my first rwd car and will it be alright to learn in? any1 in ireland wanna meet up when i get a diff and help teach.lol ![]() | |
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23-04-2008, 17:55
| #57 (permalink) |
| buttercakes!! ![]() | the top mounts is as per STFR said, put them on the oppsite sides, with the arrows still facing forwards. job jobbed. i have done this on mine, i enjoyed it. the m3 diff will be fine for drifting. i used it all last year and i was competetive in Eurodrift last year with the standard diff too. if youre changing the flanges, you need to make sure you've set the input flange correctly as it sits on a collapsable bearing which dictates the crownwheel/pinion backlash. the diff is perfect for learning in. |
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23-04-2008, 18:26
| #58 (permalink) | |
| I need an iL now... ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Doon Sooth
Posts: 3,358
| Quote:
The crush sleeve between the pinion bearings isn't really re-useable, so if you are swapping input flanges then you should replace it. It holds the compression between the two pinion bearings, dictating the amount of preload on them (VERY important if you want your gearset to last). | |
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23-04-2008, 22:25
| #59 (permalink) |
| buttercakes!! ![]() | ah, well, there was a reason why it needed to be replaced, and i presumed it was just backlash. if its to do with bearing pre-load thats all good too. put it this way its all tricky gear stuff! i learnt to never buy an LSD unless its working and in a casing. learning any more would have been wasted on me |
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