
Contact - 0845 86 92 555
sales@driftworks.com
29-02-2008, 23:47
| #1 (permalink) |
| DWYB.CO.UK ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Booostville
Posts: 2,303
| Top Tips for BMW drift prep ?? Hi all, The nice people from Performance BMW Mag are covering the next DWYB ![]() they plan to do a 4 page feature similar the banzai write up ![]() I suggested it may be a good idea to give readers some tips on effective 1st mods to help BMs skid ![]() so over to you experts who have built BMW drift cars - what were the 1st things you did to make your car more drifty ? ideally want to get into a nice easily digestible list that i send send the editor along lines of 1. weld diff/ fancy 2way 2. remove excess weight 3. increase steering lock 4. update suspension 5. get a handbrake that works 6. etc any info or experience people have had drift BMs will be a great help as i want to be sure they get correct message if you want to post links to project thread i will include them with the info im sending ![]() cheers Lex |
| |
01-03-2008, 00:01
| #6 (permalink) |
| e30 of Death ![]() Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England
Posts: 10,490
| Me too. In this order, for most BMWs to make them drifty... 1) weld diff 2) strip interior 3) slam it 4) fit bucket seat Same as any other car really ![]() I don't see covering a DWYB being able to give readers technical knowledge about making BMWs drifty but it's just the basic logic really. Fitting diffs is crazy on BMWs unless you are spending £10k on one, but most BMWs can be made really competitive with only a few grand including car purchase generally lol. Taff, stop trying to get a PBMW feature ![]() I think generally as I say any drift technical "setup" can be applied to BMWs but with "fit a bigger engine" instead of "fit a bigger turbo". |
| |
01-03-2008, 00:53
| #13 (permalink) |
| D1 street king Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 904
| From my experience on a E36, if you like to make it not so much more drifty but rather less understeery, you must improve the chassi strength. When I had my car in a standard form it was all wobbly, soft, and very unpredictable. The first thing to do is buy yourself coilovers. This is not so much for the adjustable benefits, but because you can really slam the car without the need to cut coils, the springs them self are a lot stiffer grade than performance springs, shocks can be set to extremely hard, and if you are lucky some setups include the adjustable camber plates as standard. Next you want to invest in a front and rear strut brace. They will make sure each wheel feels what the other does and add strength as well. The second most important part, which will have big improvement on the feel of the car and precisely reduce understeer, is to replace you rear stabilizer bar (15mm all E36) to something along the lines of 25-30mm thick piece. I suggest you leave the front intact and just replace the bushes. Another chassi part that received a lot of praises is the X-brace that was originally found on convertibles, due to the lack of roof and too much flex, this improves the front turn in big time, plus it adds protection to your oil sump (MJG wink, wink). Of course refreshing the bushes is a very good thing, but it might be too technical and out of the price range for some drivers. From here the rest of the modifications are found on any drift car, as you already mention, and some of them are essential such as a locked differential. Those are LSD/welded differential, stripped interior (plastic glass, no sunroof, no air con, no electric luxury, small battery, no bumper support, lightweight bonnet, doors, trunk,), bucket seat with harness, small steering wheel preferably with a spacer, short shift kit, camber arms, hydraulic handbrake, and after a while maybe some tunning done to the engine for power gains. The main thing to remember is that drifting is not about power like the track cars require. |
| |
01-03-2008, 00:56
| #14 (permalink) |
| e30 of Death ![]() Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England
Posts: 10,490
| For the record, a bigger rear ARB does not reduce understeer. It increases oversteer. Reducing understeer is about removing the safety net BMW put in as standard. I dont think e36s are understeery anyway, they feel great. And my oil sump has never broken despite being paper thin on occasion ![]() |
| |
01-03-2008, 01:09
| #15 (permalink) | |
| tail slider | Quote:
it was a light hearted joke | |
| |
01-03-2008, 01:42
| #16 (permalink) |
| e30 of Death ![]() Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Derby, England
Posts: 10,490
| Well you will be punished for your crimes against humanity. You can start by putting a big gay wing and a 45deg wedge of plastic on your e36, as only then will you be taken seriously here. Thank you. |
| |
01-03-2008, 02:16
| #18 (permalink) |
| D1 street king Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 904
| MJG I agree. That is well said actually. And Ren, stop dreaming about deep dish wheels, it's time you get some nice ones already! I still haven't painted yours by the way and I'm already waiting on a deal for another set. I might be rolling on them for a while if I can get some 16" tyres. Ridding on the rim is not my thing. Here is what I'm negotiating on: HIDEBEHIND.COM - BMW E36 16 wheel_front.jpg - anonymous image and movie hosting HIDEBEHIND.COM - BMW E36 16 wheels.jpg - anonymous image and movie hosting |
| |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |