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14-10-2007, 23:12
| #282 (permalink) |
| team yer maw ![]() | Hey guys, just looking for some general tips - had my first bash with an SLR the other day, mostly shot at 1/60 or 1/40 but I didn't really know what I was doing... Any advice for getting more of the car in focus, or anything else? Example of what I mean: Borrowed a Canon D400 but I'm not sure on the lens, it's a Canon one from the mid 90's and seems pretty good. Couple of other samples: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() (Only photoshopping was a bit of cropping and the odd little increase of brightness/contrast, was a very dull day) Cheers ![]() |
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19-10-2007, 21:22
| #285 (permalink) |
| doughnutter Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 42
| 1/40 and 1/60 is impressive, but the good/blurred ratio at the end of the day is not really good enough in most cases. With those speeds it's rather hard to get the car more in focus. From dragracing which I cover a lot in Santa Pod, when you have fast moving vehicles I always aim to focus at the middle of the car/bike. I use 1 point focus but you could play around with more... the problem you will get is that with AI Servo autofocus, when you'll have more than 1 point, the camera might re-focus on something that will get caught in one of the points and you will loose sharpness on your target ![]() Depends really what is the situation....when you have a head-on situation...naturally you will aim to front bumper...and so on and on... I think it's a matter of practice. I started off from 1/1000 with compact Olympus ;P and now I'm going down to 1/80, but mostly around 120 as DevilsTower advised. No need to get lower as you will only increase number of photos to delete...unless you don't drink at all and your hand is as stable as Manfrotto tripod ;P (whisper: or you have tons of cash and can afford lenses with image stabilizers) Hope that helps. Regards, Marcin |
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22-10-2007, 10:10
| #287 (permalink) |
| CQB 241 ![]() | marcin has hit the nail on the head there is no real trick to panning shots its pretty much all practice, i would also add that your stance is very important! standing feet together holding the camera like a rabbit eating a carrot will never work, you should have your feet apart with one hand supporting the lens and the other supporting the body there is no need for any "white knuckle hanging on for dear life" gripping of the camera just let it rest in your hands. Plan your shot and try to read the track ie, is there any bumps? is the subject going to be moving away or coming towards you? then plan exactly where in your arc you want the shot taken, you should start your pan way before your pre determined "shoot point" and carry on panning after you have taken your shots, personally i dont like just holding the shutter down and filling the buffer i normally shoot in bursts of 3 this may just be down to personal technique. As for image stabilizers.............for statics great.......for panning you gain very very little from them. |
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25-10-2007, 09:07
| #291 (permalink) |
| CQB 241 ![]() | [quote=Ragz2009;564257]I Only Use A Old Fuji s602z But I Do Come Up With Some Ok Shots Im Just Having Probs With Low Light Shots And Setting The Cam Up For Nights So Any Tips Would Be Good ![]() night time and low light.................basicly its bloody hard to get good results, depending on what light you have you are looking at high iso and impossibly low shutter speeds, you could invest in a decent flash and experiment with flash sync but tbh im totaly stumped with night stuff. |
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25-10-2007, 21:51
| #292 (permalink) |
| doughnutter Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 42
| Ross...image stabilizer does help in panning photography...it's just that you need to switch off horizontal stabilization, leaving just the vertical one works like a charm...unfortunately I can't afford a lens with that setting...yet ![]() Night shots...hmm my gallery from Parage of Power in Wellingborough was shot pretty much after dark but it's not that easy to tell because I used ISO 1600 (which your camera does have Ragz) and slightly lower shutter (1/500 as far as I remember...and f 4.5) to get the most brightness out. I did get a lot of noise thought but Photoshop does miracles in some cases. ![]() Marcin Gwozdz Photography check it out. Regards, Marcin |
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13-11-2007, 21:15
| #293 (permalink) |
| doughnutter Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Peterborough
Posts: 63
| alright guys, been reading this thread and it all seems very complex, but seeing as i dont have a car to drift right now, gonna get my arse down to a few drift days and take a few photos, will post em up once ive tried! |
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28-11-2007, 17:49
| #296 (permalink) |
| dorifto kingu! ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: NW Kent
Posts: 1,164
| Hiya, bit random, but does anyone know if/where I can get an adapter to use the video lens from my Canon XL1 on a Canon 400D? I've found adapters to use the stills lense on the video camera, but not the other way around. Any ideas? Cheers! ![]() |
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06-02-2008, 23:29
| #299 (permalink) |
| ProdriftSeries ![]() | Just updated the gear for the 08 season, so far I've got .. Canon EOS 40D with Grip Canon 300mm F4 L IS Canon 24-105 F4 L IS Canon 580EX II Nikon SB800 Some Grad ND and Circ Pol filters Wireless triggers for a flash system Lightstands, brollies and adaptors for flashes aswell. Going to try pick up a 30mm f1.4 and 150mm f2.8 next ... |
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