Purchased from Newera Imports back in 2007 Spec Sent by Miguel Of Newera Imports However, I have been offered this very rare TRD produced 3000GT Supra, which is only the 2nd one I have ever seen for sale in Japan. It carries the TRD original plaque, which makes it a genuine TRD produced car. It’s based on a 1993 (Sept) example, but it’s been lavished with extras inclusive not only of the wide 3000 GT TRD bodykit, but also their vented bonnet and rear wing. The bodykit alone cost 1,000,000 Yen to fit by TRD and it’s been beautifully done. It also has a lot of other extras (All documented in the folder that comes with the car), such as: 18” Panasport G7 split rims (With lots of tread left on the Bridgestone Potenza tyres), Bilstein custom made coilovers, late model Supra brakes with Project Mu front bells, Trust front mounted intercooler with hard pipe kit and integrated dump valve, Trust oil cooler, 3 core copper radiator, Trust Profec B Spec II Boost controller, 2 plate clutch (Feels like it’s near new), Uprated stainless steel exhaust from downpipe – back, TRD oil filler cap, Silicone hoses in engine bay (Engine could do with cleaning), Uprated Audio, SARD digital gauges, TRD 300 km/h speedo (Digital Odo shows original mileage of 85,600km), TRD steering wheel, Alloy pedal covers, Carrozzeria CD/MD unit of 200Watts, etc. Checked the car carefully at Asahi / Sexy Style (Local tuning shop). This car’s been owned by one of their customers since 1999 (Verified in paperwork as only owner since then) and always maintained there. I think we might have gone there once whilst you were with us in Japan. Anyways, paintwork is virtually perfect (Bear in mind the car wasn’t very clean in the pictures!), wheels in excellent condition and there are no oil leaks, etc. Underneath it’s perfectly tidy too. I drove it around 6 km and found nothing at all amis. It’s a well looked after car. There’s no ashtray or cigar lighter – but we’ll replace these with new anyways. Other that that as the electronic gauges fitted less neatly than they could, plus an engine bay that could use some tidying – I couldn’t find anything to report. Now, I realise Carlo wants a VVTi, but I’d forefeit the VVTi engine and trim, over this – which is a genuine 3000 GT by TRD!! A car like this is the holy grail of Supras and much more desirable! We can even source some other wheels which he’d been asking about, as well as clear front indicators, side repeaters and anything else he’d want to add. As it’s got adjustable suspension, for shipping I’d suggest raising the height – to maximum and pumping the tyres with 75 psi in each to raise it up as much as possible to avoid damage. Removing the front spoiler part underneath is a bit of a nightmare, as it includes a whole under diffuser as part of it, but provided we could have a car to put it inside for Dublin, it could be done… Anyways, I’ve placed a deposit on this car before anyone else snaps it up. If Carlo doesn’t want it – it’s no bother, as the UK Supra forum members will go mad for it, I think! Either that, or I can sell it in Japan to people on the Japanese Naval base, but I wanted to offer it to you first – since you’ve been waiting a while History Behind TRD3000GT In 1998, Toyota Racing Development [2] offered an official kit body conversion and tuning program for MR2 owners to transform their existing SW20 MR2 into a widebody TRD2000GT kit replica car. This was to pay homage to the wins by their TRD2000GTs in the GT-C Japanese racing series, the TRD2000GT racing series cars were based on the SW20 floorpan. Toyota also did the same with their Supra Twin Turbo model, offering a conversion service to transform these cars into a TRD3000GT[3]. In order to ensure exclusivity, a high price tag was charged and total of just 35 factory car conversions were completed by Toyota Technocraft Ltd. Each official Technocraft car converted was made using lightweight FRP components (in place of heavy steel original parts: front fenders, trunk lid extension, rear quarter panels, gas door, front and rear bumpers, 3-piece wing) and re-classified as completely new cars (with their own specially numbered TRD vin plate riveted to the body to indicate their authenticity and rarity). Only 3 complete Toyota Technocraft Ltd. cars are known to have been shipped into Europe with only 10 complete cars allocated to TRD USA for the entire American market. This makes these officially built Toyota Technocraft Ltd. The car track width is extended and body dimensions dramatically changing the cars overall visuals, giving the car a "supercar" look, and also better handling and weight reduction. The TRD 3000GT was first shown at the 1994 Tokyo Auto Salon much to the delight of Toyota fans and tuning car fans in general. The JZA80 Toyota Supra was already well recieved, and for TRD to bring out such extreme parts for it was sensational at the time. The TRD 3000GT body kit extended the guards by 50mm at the rear and 25mm at the front, changing much of the entire exterior of the car, leading some people to believe it were a low production vehicle along the lines of RUF Automobile GmbH (Porsche). The JGTC Supra wore the 3000GT aero parts in the final race of the '94 season and showed exceptional speed, which would lead TRD to further hone the aero parts to gain the best performance possible. There are two types of rear wing available, although the 'Type R' wing is no longer produced. Except for the Type R wing, all TRD 3000GT parts are still available according to the TRD website, although the actual stock availability isn't known. The TRD 3000GT was never actually sold as a complete car, although cars were sold with the full catalogue installed. For many this was a very expensive option, but it's possible to find JZA80 Supras with various genuine parts installed to make a car which is built according to their budgets. The TRD 3000GT bonnet, for example, is one part which despite costing 210,000 yen was a popular addition amongst Supra owners. A complete TRD 3000GT with the parts installed by Toyota, while not impossible to find, are still one of the most sought after JZA80s. As is typical amongst the Japanese 'Works Tuners' (TRD, Nismo, Mugen, STi, Mazdaspeed, Ralliart etc), the engine of the TRD 3000GT at the time of it's release was left close to standard, but with a full exhaust system and suspension modifications added to give a reasonable upgrade in performance over the already powerful base car. Later, engine packages were available which were released in stages going from mild street performance to 'hard tuned' packages illegal for street use. The original 1994 debut car though was all about properly functioning aerodynamics as opposed to outright speed, with Toyota investing a lot more financially into developing the 3000GT kit than previous attempts, using wind tunnel testing and 3D simulations to gain the best compromise between functionality and appearance. The engine was completely stock at the time of the TRD 3000GTs announcement, but later upgrades were developed for big increases in horsepower. The complete wide body TRD 3000GT kit including front fenders, rear fenders, side skirts and front and rear bumpers weighed in at 971,250 yen(!), with the addition of the aero bonnet (210,000 yen) and the rear wing (140,000 yen) bringing the total package price to 1,321,250 yen… not including installation… List Price as of 27 Feb 2013(Minus Installation & shipping) SUPRA(JZA80/GA70/MA70[H]/JZA70) | TRD TRD 3000GT Racing Aero Cowl, Wide Body Kit 925,000 Yen (Euro:7683.01) Aero Bonnet Hood 200, 000 Yen (Euro: 1661 ) Rear Wing (Type-S) 140, 000 Yen (Euro: 1163 ) Total: 1265,000(Euro: 10,507) - - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - -
Now the good part, performance ! Name: BPU Also known as: Basic Performance Upgrade Full decat What is it? BPU stands for “Basic Performance Upgrade”, a term coined by US firm Suprastore for a basic upgrade package for the TT Supra. BPU is essentially what other marques refer to as "Stage 1” engine modification. The BPU upgrades allow the engine to produce more power by raising the boost pressure the turbos produce. In stock form, the TT produces 0.76bar (11psi), however this can be raised; it's generally accepted that the stock ceramic Jspec turbos will handle 1.2bar (17.4psi). The Export spec (UK/Euro/US) has steel blades so will, in general, survive at higher boost pressures. 1.4bar (20.3psi) is not unheard of. 1.2bar is the "accepted" safe limit with regards to a) detonation, b) actually getting more power, and c) some level of longevity. It's also accepted that you're taking an allbeit very small risk each time you use full boost. 1.2 bar is generally safe, but at 1.4 you're pushing your luck. There are limitations with pressures above 1.2bar, the turbos are already outside of their efficiency range and the additional heat generated will raise the intake air temperature considerably – thus negating the effect of increased boost pressure. In both Jspec and export spec, BPU will raise engine power to around 400bhp. Not only will it release more power but it allows much quicker turbo spool-up, which vastly increases drivability. How it works In stock form, the boost pressure the turbos produce is controlled by back pressure in the exhaust system (I.e. highly restrictive catalytic converters and exhaust system). There are two approaches to BPU dependant on the model of car; as such the next section is split between Jspec and Export spec: Fundamentals of BPU Jspec: To raise boost beyond the stock level the restrictive catalytic converters are removed, thus allowing the turbos to spin faster and produce more boost pressure. There is a down side to this. With both cats removed the turbos will in fact over speed far past their safe limit and reach over 1.6bar (23.2psi). This is due to the small size of the jspec wastegate which cannot cope with the increase in exhaust gasses. At these pressures the ceramic blades in the turbo can become detached from the shaft and therefore cause catastrophic failure of the turbo. In order to add some restriction back in to the exhaust a restrictor ring is added to the exhaust system. A restrictor ring is simply a metal plate that fits normally between either between the 1st and 2nd decat pipes, or the 2nd decat and cat-back. The centre of the restrictor is drilled out to a smaller diameter than the exhaust itself (normally around 2inches). A properly sized restrictor should bring the maximum boost pressure down to 1.2 bar or less. UK/Euro/US (Export) spec: To raise boost beyond the stock level the restrictive catalytic converters are removed, thus allowing the turbos to spin faster and produce more boost pressure. Different to the jspec, the export spec has a larger wastegate which can handle the increase in exhaust gasses. Therefore boost pressure will be maintained at only slightly above stock levels, typically 0.85bar (12.3psi). In order to raise this further it is necessary to install a Boost controller to change the way in which the wastegate opens. A restrictor ring is not required on the export spec Note: On both models it’s possible to raise the boost with simply adding a Boost controller or Bleed valve; however this is not recommended since the huge resistance of the cats is still in place. This will result in significant extra heat being generated in the manifold and could cause serious engine damage due to raised exhaust gas temperatures. - - - Updated - - - Parts required: Obviously all that’s needed to raise the boost pressure is a double decat & restrictor ring (Jspec) or double decat & boost controller (export spec). However, it will not work without further modifications. The following will be required in both models: Aftermarket cat-back exhaust The stock cat back (the pipe after the 2nd decat pipe) is extremely restrictive. In order to allow a good free flowing system this needs to be replaced with an aftermarket system. There are a huge amount of systems available, but any good quality aftermarket system will be suitable for a BPU level of modification. Fuel cut defender The stock ecu will initiate fuel cut when boost pressure reaches 1 bar for a 3 second period. In order to stop this, a device is needed in order to trick the ecu into thinking the boost pressure is lower. (See quick link for further details) Updated fuel pump The stock fuel pump in the jspecs is not considered suitable for BPU level power, the one in the export spec is higher specification and will be suitable. However as many of these cars are approaching 13 years old it should be standard practice to replace the fuel pump. The Walbro pump is commonly used, however the standard pump that comes with the export spec is a better specification and has quieter operation (though considerably more costly) Colder grade spark plug With an increase in boost, a ‘colder’ grade plug is required with a closer gap. There are two basic options: - Iridium IK22 plugs - NGK BCPR7ES The iridium’s will last longer (most people get >10k miles) but typically cost £60 a set The NGK’s need replacing around 3k miles, but cost £14 a set Recommended, but non-essential parts: That’s it for the required parts, though there are two items which are highly recommended to ensure you can monitor the health of your engine: 1) Boost gauge A simple electronic or mechanical boost gauge can be mounted in the dash to view the boost pressure. An electronic boost gauge is recommend as most will come with a peak hold or even playback function, thus allowing easier monitoring of maximum pressures 2) AFR gauge Also known as Air/Fuel ratio. This has a wideband O2 sensor mounted in the 2nd decat which measures the air/fuel mixture of the exhaust gases. This is very important to monitor, otherwise you won't know if the air/fuel ratio runs lean under high boost (and therefore result in piston meltdown). Though it won’t allow adjustment, it will warn you that something is not right if it does go lean. 3) EGT gauge (optional to AFR gauge) Also known as Exhaust Gas Temperature. This has a temperature probe fitted into one of the exhaust runners (as close to the cylinder as possible). It performs basically the same function as the AFR gauge by monitoring the condition of the exhaust gases. High temps (sensor mounted post turbo 950degrees is dodgy, >1000degrees is a very bad thing!) will likely result in engine damage due to lean mixture. However there are some cons when comparing this to the afr gauge: - It is much slower to react - Failure of the temp probe (i.e disintegration) will result in the particles entering the turbos potentially causing failure - The exhaust runner requires drilling and tapping which can result in swarf entering the manifold before the turbo. This could result in damage to the turbo blades. A safer place to tap the probe is in the exhaust or downpipe after the turbo. It will stop the risk of swarf ending up in the turbo and turbo damage in the event of probe failure. There is a downside - Installing it post-turbo introduces such a big and variable heatsink into the equation it's pretty much useless. People take anything from 100 to 250degC off the aforementioned maximum, meaning that your gauge could read 800degC and mean anything from imminent meltdown to running nicely. No-one has put an EGT sensor before and after the turbo and datalogged the variance so it's 100% guesswork, and that's the last thing you want on the ragged edge. 4) Intercooler A replacement or aftermarket intercooler isn't required, however you need to ensure your current intercooler is in good condition and allows smooth airflow though the core. Many of the stock IC's on older cars are now in very poor condition and suffer from corroded fins, if yours is like this it should be replaced prior to going bpu. Decat Replacing one or both CATs in the exhaust with straight through pipes. Fuel Cut Your car pulls strongly and then loses all power like you've lifted completely off the accelerator. Boost Gauge A gauge that displays, usually in PSI or Bar, the amount of boost pressure your intake manifold is seeing. Additional Items found after she landed A Fuel cut defender is a crude way in tricking the ECU is running lower boost than it actually is, what differs with my car is to the normal BPU setup, is she runs a SARD Analyse ECU; it is basically a Stock ECU with a ROM.
SARD Analyse Is an ECU set to provide alteration of high boost & rev control at high speed driving, and provides accurate engine control in various conditions, such as partial range, street driving, and engine idling. Resetting items of Analyse: Fuel map resetting. Ignition map resetting. Rev limiter resetting. Speed limiter cancellation. Boost limiter cancellation . Carbonetic Carbon Triple/Twin plate clutch and flywheel kit Carbonetic Carbon LSD SARD Power House Amuse Exhaust System, Belloff HID KIT SARD Hi Flow 2nd Decat & Midpipe Latest Editions HKS Hi-Power Silent Exhaust TRD 10K Tacho Weapon R Engine Damper - - - Updated - - - [youtube]RgpPXg6z0-c[/youtube] - - - Updated - - - How to read the TRD VIN Model Serial # Year Month Factory The letter before the date eg. "S" indicates which factory of the 5 factories made the car ie. (F)ukagawa, (O)gikubo, (S)hibaura, (T)ama or , (M)orooka factory. All the factories are in Tokyo, capital city of Japan except Morooka which is in in Kanagawa. Mine reads: Model: JZA80 Serial: 26 Factory: S Year : 01 Month: 12 That's all I know to date about TRD3000GT's , only took me 5 years to track down all this information; very difficult to acquire any information even via sources in Japan!
Started a bit of work since January Here's the list, its long and tedious so far, not alot to show for the hours spent so far but its was all prep Paint Calipers Black -- Must of spent 3-4 hours taking 7 years + of crap off them, currently the fronts are painted with anti-corrosion paint and a first coat of black Tidy up front brake Bell housing (Gold) -- is complete ,I dont have any pics of the bell housing when I first removed them, even getting them to the worst condition below was alot of hours by hand, just need to re-bolt the brake rotor, currently getting nuts this week, the hats the nut bolt into are de-corroded, zinc coated and polished. All Callipers are removed, and brake pads de-rust and Paint rear Discs Satin Black -- in-progress , nearly de-rusted Get the Lips on the GTC Wheels Polished and Seal with Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armor -- Wheels are off , need to de-tyre, just trying to sort transport Re-paint Wheel nuts Satin Black or Pro-Parts titanium look steel nuts -- De-rusted , etched primed and zinc coated, first black coat is on Prep and paint arches with anti-chip Black -- not started Diff: Rebuild Crown and Pinion bearing -- not started Paint Diff housing Crack Black or Satin Black -- not started Brakes
Tyres are removed(Thanks to Mr Kearney and Richie in ProParts!) Wheels are dismantled (what a tedious job!) 40 nuts and bolts later ,currently at Triple A Customs with David I removed any brake dust on the rear of the Spokes last nite , ordered up some Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armour and Gtechniq - Panel Wipe; will coat up the spokes and barrels while they are dismantled Volk Center Caps are all polished ready to go New Valves are al ready to go in, [/URL]7.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/391509C6-38EC-4AC5-8D87-44D6C4130BC4_zpshxsccafm.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Rear Calipers Are in Primer and two coats or paint so far Wheel Nuts are Etched primed and Zinc coated with one coat of Satin black so far - - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - - Small update
Wheels are back and re-assembled , Sealed with Gtechniq Wheel Armor Thanks to Simon for the Help today and Baz for the Torque Wrench! - - - Updated - - - So some more parts arrived since I last posted ARP Extended Studs The ARP extended length wheel studs are designed for extra strength and safety and are often necessary when running very aggressive backspacing, offsets, or slicks. They are made from heat-treated chromoly and are rated at 190,000 PSI tensile strength rating. People might say over kill but only wheel stud I now 100% will fit , I had all the dimensions of the OEM Stud but nobody would commit to say theirs would fit, so for an extra 20 euro got these Toyota OEM Diff Cushion Mounts Newly build Diff will be going back in soon so may as well replace them , mine are starting to crack so went with OEM as the solid mounts are too noisy and will affect the ride quality, she is a road car not a track/Drag car About 3-4 hours work left Install New Brake shoes Install ARP Wheel studs Bolt in Rear brake callipers Bleed Brake system Finish preparing and painting Passenger side Wheel arches with Anti-chip black Bolt on Wheels Relocate Oil Filter to a safer place Oil change Test turning circle with 25 mm spacers upfront and clearance Shake down Motor tax Then off to Elite Auto Clean She should be good to go for the Weekend just Motor tax is the hold up , so wont be able to drive it till next week but the MX5 will do nicely if the sun stays like today
She is back on the Road Found this today, Cyclone II stuffed in the intake pipe Said on it , it reduces emissions and noise I wonder what version 1 was like [youtube]cXP6wLFrumQ[/youtube] If I see better Pics I will throw them up - - - Updated - - - Replaced the Rubber pipes on the OEM Twin turbo Hard pipes , few members noticed theres where collapsed inside so considering mine is 21 years old , I replaced mine. They are not as bad as other guys with 1998 Supra's and half the mileage, plus in the condition they are they wont imped performance but they still are not looking the best New ones My old ones New H&R Spacers fitted
Painted dash panels today - - - Updated - - - New Aluminium Dash rings are in New Speakers are in and door panel finished painting , my front OEM speakers fell off when I took off the door car lol Also go an Aluminium undertray
New custom Recaro seats on order with carbon optic shells , take 4 weeks to make , should be here early December so just sample pics - - - Updated - - - Guess what Arrived Car Parts!
Created some Windows Apps Windows 8 App TRD3000GT Windows Phone App TRD3000GT - - - Updated - - - Black Friday -- I got some Parts! MVP Motorsports Billet Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket Powerhouse Racing 4 Piece Billet Aluminum Pulley Set w/ idler for 2jzgte Marini Motorsport Modified Oil Pump for 1993-98 Toyota Supra Titan Crank Pulley MVP Motorsports Billet Upper Shock Arm Unorthodox Racing Billet Cam Gear for Toyota 2JZ OCD Works Billet Aluminum Valve Covers + V2 Coil Pack Cover Comb0 **-10 A/N REAR MOUNTED PORTS** OCD Works V2 Billet Catch Can Setup for 1993-98 Toyota Supra OCD Works Stainless Steel Hardware Kit for OCD Billet Valve Covers+CoilPack Cover Combo
