Hi all, I'm looking into possibly purchasing a C33 Nissan Laurel for daily driving. I've never owned a turbo car, let alone a beast like this one, and I need someone to knock some sense into me. It's been modified heavily. It was originally an RB20DE that was built into a 2.3L RB with a TD05 turbo. Everything was done very well, I believe. Nothing, and I mean NOTHING, is stock. This car has definitely been drifted. It has aftermarket injectors, intercooler, fuel pump, plugs, filters, Z32 MAF, etc. You get the point, it's been done right. The internal wastegate actuator spring was set to a MINIMUM of 18 PSI, and although I plan on bumping it down to around 5-7 PSI for commuting and street use, how would 18 PSI fare in terms of reliability? Honestly. I won't drive it hard on my commutes, and will only get on it every once in a while. But how much more stress is that extra 12 PSI causing the engine if I'm not really getting on it much? What can I expect in terms of reliability on a fully built 2.3T pushing ~400rwhp? Should 'reliability' and '400rwhp turbo' even be used in the same sentence, or are there ways to balance the two? He also has a spare RB20 engine and transmission (optional). Should I take them, or do you think I'll really need them? The guy's been driving the car daily for around a year and a half and said 'no major mechanical issues' have happened. Key word, major. Not sure what to expect with this car. Knock some sense into me and tell me what I could be looking into, because I'm clueless. Thanks!
Where are you based? How has it been turned into a 2.3? Did he use 4AGZE pistons? Did he use the original DE block? Not the smartest idea to jump in the deep end with a frankenstein engine of unknown specs. Unless he can point you to a build thread or provide receipts then you can't rely on anything he's said. There are heaps of instances of people without a lot of knowledge being duped by people who appear genuine. Post up a full spec list (incl manufacturer of part) as you can get a bit of an idea of how it's been put together from that. Even a photo of it, as someone may know the owner or have had a hand in putting it together. The boost is only going to be an issue if you're at full throttle. When your dailying a car you're never at full throttle unless you're an idiot. 18psi is ok if the car has been built to handle it but if it's a stock RB20DE bottom end then i doubt it will last long.
Appreciate the reply. I'm located in the US. Here's the mod list: Engine : -RB23DET - Japanese built - Unknown specs on engine. Was imported from japan with known "2300 CC" engine on import sheet. Came with all the supporting mods (turbo/intercoooler/injectors/fuel pump/etc...) -Runs and drives well, has had regular oil changes, tune ups, belts, fluids. No leaks at all. The engine itself is slightly loud, but has never had any mechanical failures, and pulls very hard. -TD05 turbo - freshly rebuilt -Tomei Wastegate Actuator - 18psi -Tial BOV -GTR FMIC -Purple injectors -A/M Fuel pump -Chipped ECU - runs and drives great, but would recommend a tune -Greddy down pipe -3" full exhaust with cat delete -Z32 MAF -Apexi filter -Yellow jacket coil packs Drivetrain: -Rb20 transmission -Fidanza flywheel -ACT 6 puck clutch -Factory LSD Suspension: -Gk Tech front knuckle kit (Increased width, RCA and 60 degrees of angle) -Aftermarket tension rods -New inner/outer tie rod -Tie rod spacers -Megan coil overs -Megan RUCA -Aluminum subframe inserts
Sounds like it's using 4agze pistons if it was built in Japan (a common upgrade: RB20DET 2.2 !!??) and sounds like it's well put together. TD05 is a bit on the small side but should give you good response & torque which is ideal. Get a compression test done, if it comes up good then sounds like a good setup. Only issue will be parts availability for you as in the US they won't be common. However, suspension components are the same as your 240's. I'd recommend getting it checked on a dyno. A good dyno operator can check knock levels and A/F ratios relatively easy. If the A/F ratios are way out of whack then consider a Nistune ECU (cheapest of all the RB options). If it comes up golden then you can beat on it with confidence. Would also recommend an external oil cooler as well and oil temp / pressure gauges. Don't let oil temp get over 110deg C, or pressure to drop below 60psi when under boost. Oiling is the biggest RB issue and keeping an eye on it is essential.
