Thanks for all the kind words! {} Welded on a new t3 flange to the japspeed manifold. Tested for exhaust leaks by connecting a shop vac to the downpipe and blowing in air. Found some small leaks but now it should be fine. Anyway for me its strange that I can't remember my car having a rough idle last year but it does.. Fixed the exhaust leak. Made the wbO2 readings a little more steady and now it looks like its running rich Should be delivered to the tuner soon so I'm hooping for some decent results and a working car before Gatebil Rudskogen.
Hey! Yes theres happend a lot and still almost nothing. Well so earlier this year I was thinking about selling the car since I hadn't driven it for a year and was starting to get pretty bored of having a trailer queen in my garage that I can't enjoy. Put it out for sale(impulsive as I am). And was gonna sell it after tuning session. {} Took the car to the tuner. Sadly it didn't go as we wanted. Car was misfiring as soon as we reached 100 kpa and also in some other parts of the tune. Tried to check fuel pressure, tried new spark plugs, different vag cop's. Car didn't want to run. Or maybe it didn't want to get sold. So I spent some $$$ and no progress. Was fed up so I just left the car for a week or two in the garage. Of course the buyer changed his mind when the car didn't run. Was probably not gonna buy it still. Anyway during this time, I had more time to think about my decision of what to do with the car would be. So I talked with some people working with MOT:ing and registering rebuilt cars and I got a reply saying that I've modified the car enough to register it with a new engine and gearbox, Which was perfect to me because I want to be able to drive it more than just on track(Logistic costs eats all the fun). So started working on the car again... One month left to gatebil september. First we didn't know what the problem was, So testing the injectors and injector flyback circuit of the box would be a good start. Racegear.wtf offered to help with testing injectors which showed that nothing was wrong with them. Talked with some experienced Megasquirt builders and read a lot of forum posts. Some guy told me that the best place to test the box is in its running environment like I've been doing, so borrowed a picoscope from work and started measuring. Testing with oscilloscope confirmed that outputs from my Megasquirt is totally fine and that theres no trigger sync errors. Speeding.nu helped me with a new fuel pressure regulator. {} Megasquirt logs showing the car running lean during acceleration. So.. next thing to try was my vag cop's. Drove to a friend and mounted them in his supra, and they were working just fine. No spark blowout. At this point I've also forgotten to mention that I've had changed my fuel filters and disconnected all my fuel lines to check for debris or dirt. Nothing.. Then when I taught I was out of ideas I came up with an idea to put the fuel pump inside the engine room in a can of e85. And this worked. Car was no longer running lean when free revving. And logs looked completely different. {} Swapped my fuel lines for bigger ones, ran a bigger in-tank pickup, and made some new terminals. But still the car was not getting enough fuel. {} Connected oscilloscope to check fuel pump current. 16amps should be fine. {} {} Right now I'm waiting for a new pump to arrive. Hopefully that is the problem. I've been running smaller fuel lines last year with no problem what so ever. And the plan is to make the car road legal drifter, This means I get more time behind the wheel which is both funnier and also makes me more comfortable once at track.
Good effort on problem solving! Hopefully a new fuel pump solves the issues for you Best thing you can do is be able to drive it on the road. Especially such a tidy car like this.
good work for not giving up, does your fuel pump run through a fp ecu? the supra's and other Toyota/lexus cars normally have a fuel pump ecu and it's recommended to bypass this and run a direct 12v feed to the pump yourself, however it does sound like your fuel pump is dying. what brand is it? I've had a walbro do the same to be before, my old 255lph gave up and eventually got to a point where it was unbearably loud when priming the system, this was 8 years ago though on my old sr20det s14
+1 for bypassing the FP ECU, that was causing a fair bit of problems with my walbro 450 - had to be bypassed as it didn't seem to like sending more than 9v to the pump.
I'm running megasquirt v2 as ecu so my fuelpump is driven by a dedicated relay. Have measured voltage and amps too, nothing strange :/ My fuelpump is an walbro 450gst e85 compatible. after last season I just left it standing in the fueltank for a few months. Tried connecting it at the fuelrail, which shows that its running less lean. But in tank its running lean, Also brought bigger fuellines and changed some connections to no success. New gst450 is on its way
Its always fine to ask I'm already running adjustable FPR, changed to a new one with no success. But atleast my enginebay looks prettier Got the pump yesterday, so now I'm excited to get off work and go home to try it out {}
Hello! Well so as for now the problem is still not fixed, The fuelpump was not broken. But there is something in my fuelsystem creating the issue. {} This the latest status of my fuelsystem: new fuelpump, bypass for filter (this actually lowered the red AFR a little but still not enough so filter is an restriction but not a big problem), this picture is also with updated fuellines and less 90 degree an fittings. And using another battery too. Anyway only money I lost was for the fuelpump but instead of sending mine in for testing which would include destroying the pump to investigate it(a fully functioning one), so now I have an gst450 spare. {} This is with fuelpump located in an external fueltank located in engineroom. As Ive wrote earlier locating the issue to my fuelsupply. Anyway the problem is probably small compared to what I've initially taught, I think it can be the fuelpump beign located to close to the bottom of the tank, infact its pinned between the access to the pump and the bottom due to lack of space, so gonna try redesign this. Does anyone know how high a pump must be located or how close to the bottom of the tank it should be, And also what will happen if the fuel return line ends above the fuel which in return mixes fuel with air.
Hi, it would be a pity to sell it after all the work... Why don't you run a surge tank in the boot? It's easy and not too expensive and it should take care of the fuel starving. And, most importantly, would keep your engine from going boom from detonation. Awesome car anyway...
Thanks guys! Good news, Shes running, and shes bad ass. Spinning tires in 3rd gear as soon boost comes, might spin more. Issue was I was to careful, To careful.. seriously. I didnt wanna scare neighboors so I didnt push hard enough. And when pushing hard enough it was easier to see that the engine is working completly different compared to last season, I have a completely different gearing in the rear diesel vs petrol differential, no leaks what so ever, and a small agile hx40super. Anyway compared to last setup it was a huge difference in how much fuel she wanted but once you pass that cell in the tune shes rich as pig. Could get a lot better resolution by changin to high z injectors instead, so might do that before tune. So time for tuning now.
hi robin just read your post love it m8 glad you got your issue with the car sorted i personally had the 1jzgte in is200 with r154 i bought it like that but with the is250 a newer chassis than the is200 would love to do the same and i most probably will start soon early next year can i ask you did u have any trouble with the box mounting in the tunnel was it a tight fit as not sure might get cd009 or r154 as the supra boxes are just stupid money now and did u have to modify your subframe at all many thanks pal
Hey! Glad to hear! It was pretty straight forward fitting the r154 box. The entry of the tunnel from engine room is a bit tight and need some persuading with a hammer or two. The box rear mount almost lines up with the stock mounts. and there is plugged ones that seems to me suited for r154. Subframe is not modified, but the oilpan will need some. You're welcome
