So about a couple of months ago on of my work colleagues got a Maveric rc drift car off the net and bought it to work one day and I was hooked as soon as I had a quick blast. So planned to buy the same and start out. Then I remembered I had this in the garage that I was bought for xmas about 6 years ago... Its a TL-01RA (Rally Edition) So unboxed it and it looked like this My dad had built it in a rush for me and it drove like crap so decided to strip the whole thing down. And cleaned the dust off. Started to rebuild it from scratch. Got to the steering servo and had a missing clip thing so rather than spend £4 inc postage on a new one, used a axle spacer from work Took this bad boy apart and mashed a load of blue tac in it to get the rears locked. In Got her back together but she's still a Rally Car... So I bought these wheels of my mate for cheeps and de sticker'd the shell, got her nice and low. Bought some new batteries and a charger Tidied up the chassis, wires and all that Did a little test and the internet told me I need rear camber.. so did Transmitter was bland so sticker bombed it Went to an RC meet (mainly all touring stuff) and had a little blast on the track in-between the heats - can find it here - Home - BLRCCC Such a sick track layout (they change it everyweek) and its hugeee, 3 Sunday meets a month 12ish -6pm Kirkley High School, Lowestoft. And then stuff broke (glad it wasn't mine!) Had a blast and was really fun can't wait to go back again. In the meantime I made a little exhaust and as I crashed and snapped wing mirror off I though id put it back on drifty style. Now just got to practice, practice, practice.
That looks cool man! I had a TL-01 drifter for a couple of months, amazing fun! Decent dampers will make it great to drift with. I just put some long, firm springs out back and it done the job Oh, and get some good bearings it in if you can. I went through 2 lots of the nylon ones on the gear set in no time at all!
Just put bearings onto my TT01 chassis. You may need to use some thread lock to reduce any play between the bearing inner and the shaft. I found them a bit loose.
Yeah will do in the future, mine were stiff anyways from sitting around for so many years. Yeah will full ball bearing it aswell as soon as the nylon ones die Man that shell looks sick! Need some footage of it skidding. Does the tipper function ? YES!
Found it! Mine was in the loft, full ballraced, geared for speed, quailty motor and a decent speed controller, can't find my frigging controller though Also found a Kyosho Nitro car I forgot I had.
No skid footage due to wheel breakage. Smashed both rear wheels. Thats why the rears in the pic are the standard wheels. Got a new set now but have been fitting the ball bearings and camber arms to the front. Its a bin waggon and the rear section can work but not got any servos on it yet. Need a 4 channel radio setup then it will be working.
I much prefer this shell, definitely not as common Should be good once sorted. What wheels did you get? You should make a build thread on it! Haven't done anything to the car except drive it this evening. First time using the batteries on a full charge they lasted about 70 mins between them. Downside was the motor was getting extremely hot. Not to bothered though just going to let it keep happening till it burns out and upgrade to a brush-less system with a fan. Little bit of after hours fun at work.
Update. Another little thing done that I have wanted to do was lights. Cut the holes. Both holes cut. Quite discrete I think even without being filled. Both LED's fitted, good 'ol double sided tape. Lights are dead bike light fittings with watch batteries I found laying around. Can hardly tell they are there! And the best bit... Should be doing some lock mods in the next week,depending on how she performs on the felt at the meet on Sunday. Cheers for looking
Looking good! the lights look better than what mine turned out like, hopefully they won't fall out like mine did
UPDATE. Lock Mods. So after realising how weak the lock is on my TL-01 I decided to do some chopping. Started with the lower arms where the adjustable steering arms knock into them. So took a blade and got cutting. Close up Tbh this made minimal difference and couldn't even tell by eye, but it was the first part of the job. The next part of the steering system that was stopping the lock was the C shape part that help the hubs in. These: This is where the lock stopped if you can see. So popped them off and got chopping again. The one on the left is standard and the one on the right is chopped. Both done As you can see its really thinned them out. I also doubled up on the little O rings in the front driveshafts to stop the linkage from knocking into them in the mounting point. Then put it all back together and hoped for the best. This is the result. Top is before, bottom is after. Now the lockstops are the outside of the hub on the trailing wheel so that will be addressed soon but for now have more than enough. I also did a little detailing for definition on the shell with a sharpie, it came out okay to be honest for a quick job. Thanks for looking.
More Steering Mods. And POWEEERRR on the way. Had a free evening so decided to go more extreme on the steering angle mods. Most of it was just cutting away more from what I had done already. It didn't need doing in any particular order but here is basically what I done. Cut away at the hole in the chassis so I got more throw from the servo so the adjustable arm didn't hit. Moved the shock in as the wheel was knocking into it. Just adjusted the rears to match the ride height. Completely cut out the the 'C' shaped part that holds the hub in so the drive linkage doesn't hit it. Again cut out the lower arm so the ball joint from the adjustable arm has loads of free space and wont knock into it. This is what lock i'm getting now. After and Before. Its a shame that both wheels don't have the same lock when on full lock but not to fussed as I it cost me nothing and took a knife and half hour. I also tried a 22Turn motor thanks to 'BMXGasson', as mine was a pain to get sliding (it wouldn't slide unless on AT LEAST half power) as the standard motor was for a rally car. But the 22T was much better on the concrete and it stepped out the rear much better. So I have ordered a 15T HPI Motor for £6.37! So that should be a blast and two more 3300 batteries for more seat (transmitter) time. Ill get some pics up when they arrive. Few GIFS I made of BMXGasson at the track at work Ashley.
how long are the batteries lasting you? I have the same in my rock crawler and they last a good 20-30 minutes. But then again im not flat out all the time where as you are. Check out radshaperc they have alot of cool accessories and shells for rc drift cars RadshapeRC.Com - Serious parts for RC Cars made in the UK
About the same 20-30 depending on throttle set-up for the track. Am I correct in saying that they will lose a little time on the 15 turn motor I have ordered? On full throttle on the felt as the bends are long and sweeping the worst I have got out of them is like 17mins. Cheers for the link ill have a ganders.
New HPI 15T motor, 2X 3300 batteries and a charger arrived. Old motor out. New motor in. Should hopefully get 2 hours out of these 4 batteries now. Skid Skid.
