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  1. #1
    gripper
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    essex
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    best drift setup on e36 bmw

    Just after some advise , im selling my s14a and going for a e36 bmw instead opinions please on best setup for 60% road use and %40 drifting ie what diff / best coilovers etc..
    Sorry for basic question just ive only ever owned jap cars before.

  2. #2
    touge runner
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Hungary
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    150
    - ebay coilies
    - m3 evo topmount reversed (left one to right, right one to left)
    - m3 eccentric front wishbone bushes (m3 stuff for bigger camber and caster)
    - steering rack spacers
    - welded diff (small case for example, with shorter ratios around 3.6. The stock bmw lsd isn't very good, but it can be modified for more locks)
    - suspension allignment (0 toe all around, -1 camber rear)
    - if you want stronger rear topmounts, then e46 m3 topmount with z3 reinforcement plates, but this isn't a must
    - m3 or cabrio x-brace to stiffen things up front, but this isn't a must either

    And thats it. It'll be pretty much streetable with these.

  3. #3
    gripper
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    Jan 2009
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    essex
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    cheers pitesy thanks for the advise not sure about the welded diff for normal road use is it worth putting an m3 diff on , is it any better than the 328 sport version?

  4. From the Driftworks Shop
  5. #4
    touge runner
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Hungary
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    Iirc the 328 diff is somewhere about 2.9, and the m3 is 3.15. So the M3 would be a better choice.
    These diffs lock about 25% (but they are worn out nowadays, so even less), so they are driftable, but sometimes it takes time for them to lock up. So you steer, floor it, and it won't lock immediately and won't lock up too much.

  6. #5
    NDC Runner Up 2012
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    Feb 2008
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    You want a 325 welded diff 3.15 ratio same as M3 3.0.

  7. #6
    gripper
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    Jan 2009
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    essex
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    thanks for the replys guys will see what diffs in the car when i get it and go from there

  8. #7
    NDC Runner Up 2012
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    Living with a welded diff, aint that bad tbh.
    Its worth a try, rather than going to the expense of 250 plus for an M3 LSD.

  9. #8
    S1- F.T break!
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    9,043
    Quote Originally Posted by pitesy View Post
    - ebay coilies
    - m3 evo topmount reversed (left one to right, right one to left)
    - m3 eccentric front wishbone bushes (m3 stuff for bigger camber and caster)
    - steering rack spacers
    - welded diff (small case for example, with shorter ratios around 3.6. The stock bmw lsd isn't very good, but it can be modified for more locks)
    - suspension allignment (0 toe all around, -1 camber rear)
    - if you want stronger rear topmounts, then e46 m3 topmount with z3 reinforcement plates, but this isn't a must
    - m3 or cabrio x-brace to stiffen things up front, but this isn't a must either

    And thats it. It'll be pretty much streetable with these.
    Excuse the hijack but its nearly on subject! Any similar tips for an e39 535? it's understeer-tastic and I'd like to make it a bit more neutral.
    Quote Originally Posted by MJG View Post
    You must have some kind of 60's top fuel funny car to get understeer into a donut through "too much rear end grip".

  10. #9
    touge runner
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Hungary
    Posts
    150
    Tubbydan: M3 and any other medium case BMW lsd-s have the same 25% lockup. So if you choose an lsd, choose the 325i one, it will fit without any modifications, not as the M3 diff.

    Royal:
    I'm not familiar with e39s, but I would suggest about the same. I read an article somewhere, and it suggests these settings, to eliminate understeer. If the rear suspension is a similiar multilink one, as on the e36, it will gain camber during compression.
    So I think you should find some camber in front (iirc the e39 has really weak camber stock), 0 toe all around, and the -1 camber rear look right imho.
    I saw this picture here, on a Hungarian forum, it is an adjustable front top mount for e39s:


    You could make someone to machine you one. Maybe it is cheaper, than other adjustables.

    If this was complete bullshit, than sorry, and please someone correct me!

  11. #10
    dorifto kingu!
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Hillingdon, Middlesex
    Posts
    2,059
    Quote Originally Posted by pitesy View Post
    - ebay coilies
    - m3 evo topmount reversed (left one to right, right one to left)
    - m3 eccentric front wishbone bushes (m3 stuff for bigger camber and caster)
    - steering rack spacers
    - welded diff (small case for example, with shorter ratios around 3.6. The stock bmw lsd isn't very good, but it can be modified for more locks)
    - suspension allignment (0 toe all around, -1 camber rear)
    - if you want stronger rear topmounts, then e46 m3 topmount with z3 reinforcement plates, but this isn't a must
    - m3 or cabrio x-brace to stiffen things up front, but this isn't a must either

    And thats it. It'll be pretty much streetable with these.
    Nice advice i'm running most of these mods as well. You might want to look at Subframe Chassis reinforcement plates as its a common BMW problem that they tear.

    Get the top mounts and plates from BMW they are all pretty cheap.

    I think mine needs alignment


    BMW 325i Turbo

  12. #11
    MJG
    MJG is offline
    dorifto kingu!
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Derby
    Posts
    15,023
    That spec will make your car amazing. As above I'd definitley weld in the reinforcement plates, you can do it yourself by cutting open little windows in the under-rear-seat metal and the boot floor directly above the subframe mounts (you can work it out by eye and common sense) then welding on some 2mm+ steel after seam-welding the area first (only really applicable on the front mounts).

    I'd start with lock spacers, a welded diff, and ebay coilovers. You'll then have a car that drifts great and is nice and simple/cheap. Everything else is a luxury that you won't need to start with.
    When in doubt - clutch kick.

 

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