Drift Setup???????

[mittomatto]

Originally Posted by Matt_S

Im running 7 deg Castor and the tyre has rubbed the frick out of the inner arch (directly behind the battery tray - but then I did take a big hammer to get the battery to fit

you still have inner arches... also dude, your supossed to bash the arch out of the way of the wheel, not bash the arch into the way of it

[ant]

mine did that, not after i took a hammer to it, it also rubs on the top of the rear inner arch, that stopped aswell

[mittomatto]

Originally Posted by ant

it also rubs on the top of the rear inner arch,

WTF how low is your car?!?! you'll be fubar when you have aero on there

[Adam]

and also assume makes a ass out of me and you not assuming , jeeees mitto didn't you go to school

[mittomatto]

should i change the thread title to "learning mitto to spell thread"

seriously, i just type, i dont go over and check it. people chill. like i said, its not a spelling forum, its a drift one

[Adam]

No TEACHING Mitto to spell would be better

Only messing dude, nice to read a bit of input on the setup shit

[ant]

not that low, i was running 255/35/18 on a 18*9.5 et15 with a mad arch flare and it hit it, the back can go lower now i have hammered the inner arch out the way.

Originally Posted by mittomatto

WTF how low is your car?!?! you'll be fubar when you have aero on there

[Stavros]

Bringing this back up top the top...

Rear camber... (totally ignoring doing it to clear arches)

Increasing or decreasing it, effects?

zero (ie dead flat, providing the suspension movement dont make it change) seems almost ideal, but im no drift pro, not yet anyhow

[Tom]

Dead flat would be ideal IF there was absolutely no roll on the rear. however there always will be some roll and ideally you want the outside tyre flat when the car rolls to give as much control while sideways. Between 1.5 and 2 degrees negative seems ideal on my s14. It also decreases contact patch when in a straight line which means less grip.

The other reason that negative camber is ideal is because unless u have adjustable rear toe arms when u lower it the toe/camber goes fubared. For instance when i first got the tracking gauges on the car i had 1 degree negative camber and 10mm toe out. Had to settle on 1.75 degrees negative with 5mm toe out. Although i really like it that way, especially as im running pretty low power.

[Stavros]

Good points and good explanations top, nice one

[Old Skool Cars]

Just curious here, how many aftermarket or adjustable thingys is there out for the likes of a S13 or S14???

adjustable this taht and the other by the looks and sounds of it....

[Phil]

Everything and anything that can/should be adjusted on an S body, has an aftermarket option to bring it into spec.

[ZaX]

Originally Posted by mittomatto

they do all my alighments anyways you know the guys in the fitting shop? if any of you guys call for drift stuff speak to steve (aka skippy) he's the man. he just sold some ff skum to by some S body skum

going to Tomp's comments -

what i have found is that SO many extreme drift set-ups are for cars in full lock situations... but, how much time do you actually spend on the lockstops while drifting? on the front, set-up is relavant to the ammount of steering angle you can achive, in most cases this is stock... the set-up above is perfect for cars with stock steering or the slight increase from say tein spacers or with the washer mod to the rack ends. basically, at maximum angle the wheel is slightly rolled over, but this is in your recovery range of steering rather than the actual drift range. toe out is awesome on the front, but does cause major turn in issues (especially in the wet!) i found toe out also tends to "load" the front of the car under braking due to the adverse effect on akerman angle and total SAI on lock.

Toe in is great for racing grip and turn in, but mid drift steering feel becomes very vauge - you know when your coming out of a drift and you think the wheels are straight but really your still on one turn of lock? yeah, you cant feel crap through the steering.

Front castor really only makes a difference to the wieght of the steering, for a little fella like me its more important to be able to steer quickly rather than have fancy steering rebound lock to lock by running massive castor. i've tried castor at 5* right through to 9*, the best seems to be around 7*, but 8* is nice for high speed stability.

on the back end of the car i basically put things like this...

camber = grip
toe = drift grip

put simply, more camber means less grip, but more camber also means that the car can control very violent changes in direction as the car rolls onto the tyre. obviously camber has an effect on initial grip too. a car with a lot of camber will break away more smoothly than a car with not so much camber. again with camber ive been between 1.2* and 3* neg, 1.6* is a good learner figure as you have to break the car free still, rather than put your foot down and wait for it... im settled on 1.8* for myself.

Rear toe fundamentally controls power application mid drift. more toe will make the car progressive in the sense that it will push forwards whilst drifting. (if you have some video clips with me in birmingham wheels round one, watch the car "push" forwards when i nail the go pedal) toe in entrys have to be very aggressive. toe out will make initial drift entry smoother but mid drift you will get a vauge feeling from the rear. the car will still accelerate, but it wont "surge" forwards like with toe in. Toe out makes for very smooth looking drifting (tanaguchi runs a lot of toe out on the rear) but... toe is massivley effected by tyre and body roll on the tyre. If for example you run 0*25* toe out, when you throw the car into drift the load of the tyre will reduce the toe to 0* - you wouldnt notice this at low speeds, but at high speeds it makes a massive difference. this loading onto "one" wheel effect camber also, so running say 1* neg camber and 0*25* toe out, will end up "actually" being 0.25* camber and 0* toe when your loading the leading wheel, providing massive grip initally in the drift. with rear settings you need to compensate for this with power (like tom said) or by allowing for the movement and compromising with set-up. you get the same effect on the front, but to a lesser degree as the movements aren't as violent.

anyway, i'll stop waffling now

Every time I'm doing alignment I read this topic and especialy this post. I spent 2 days searching for it.

Someone please make it sticky. Thank you.

[mashed]

Originally Posted by mittomatto

i also know what works... depends how you want your car to drive. but something like this is good -

front
camber 2.6* neg
castor 7* pos
toe 0*05*

damper setting to medium (say 8-12 clicks) spring rate 9kg

rear
camber 1.6* neg (increase to 2* using VLSD)
toe 0*50* inwards

damper setting stiff (say 12-16 clicks) spring rate 7kg

basically set-up wise you want a soft bound and stiff re-bound to allow suspension to take impact and recover quickly. spring rates should'nt be too hard as this makes the car too sensitive and snappy. Ride hieght wise you want to be as low as possible without compromising suspension travel or damper effectiveness. something like 80mm drop front and 60mm rear is reasonable. Stripping as much wieght as possible will make a big difference to handling, as will increasing the track (width) of the car. the wider you go, the more aggressive the car will be, but it will also be more stable sideways at speed (3rd gear + speeds)

the word you need to keep in mind when tuning suspension is BALANCE, rather than "cool" hope that helps a little

sorry, being a moron... edit settings as im dumb and put deg instead of minutes, duh...

would this be ideal for a daily driver too? or just track slag, im running standard wheels,

so tyres are 215/55/15

[drax]

Godness gracious great balls of 3 years ago

I thought I had woken up and travelled back in time

[shane]

People are always going on about using the search facility