Hydraulic handbrake issue - Drifting forum

shirunai · 10-07-2008, 19:04

Hello I have installed a hydraulic handbrake (dw one with wilwood Master cylinder) to my nissan 200sx rs13 its really hard to lock up the wheels u need so much levrage so you get unfocused if you want to lock up the wheels, we have bleeded today with no bubbles at all.

What todo? is the rear orignal brakesetup and blackstuffpads to weak?

Regards ANdré

edit: additional information the mastercylinder is 0.625 something if I remember correctly, other than the driftworks handbrake the brakesystem is completly orignal got a facelift rs13 if that helps. The bleeding procdure was like this open valve, depress brake and depress handbrake and close did this severaltimes to get no bubbles in the system.

royal · 10-07-2008, 19:12

Must still be air in there or something? my hydro completely locks the wheels at any speed.

ChizFab · 10-07-2008, 19:24

bleed bleed and bleed again mate.

**SteveC200** · 10-07-2008, 19:30

Youre pulling the handbrake and the pedal at the same time? Try doing them seperately.

shirunai · 10-07-2008, 19:36

how do you mean seperatly ? explain exaclty how to bleed we were two people.

1Open valve
2depress brake pedal some times keep it pressed
3pull handbrake keep it pulled
4close valve

And repeat so you dont see airbubbles.

royal · 10-07-2008, 20:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by shirunai

2depress brake pedal some times keep it pressed

Might just be the english, but are you sometimes letting it go? you are pushing it down and KEEPING it down arn't you? Still sounds like it just needs more bleeding though. If you think about how much extra brake lines you are adding. you need to get all that air out.

shirunai · 10-07-2008, 20:18

adding? there isnt alot of more brakelines to add, since I am tapping it in on the on the ABSactualtor to the handbrake and then back to the T-peice.

I have a Non-return valve/check valve and a hoose and a bottle.

When I open the brakevalve
my mate is depressing the brakepedal few times until we get fluid in the hose and not letting go of the brakepedal, after that he pulls the hydraulic handbrake and not letting it go after that i close the valve and he lets go of the handbrake and the footbrake

and we repeat until we dont see any bubles.

royal · 10-07-2008, 20:24

You shouldn't press it up and down with the valve open because it will suck air in.
Open valve,
Press pedal down and hold down (same with hydro)
close valve
Repeat

shirunai · 10-07-2008, 20:28

just press one time on the footbrake and keep it depressed and pull handbrake and keep it there and close valve ?

Or should I do them separatly?

open valve
press footbrake and keep it there
close valve

or
open valve
press footbrake 1time and keep it there
pull handbrake 1time and keep it there
close valve
let go
open valve and do it again?

JackMcIntyre · 10-07-2008, 21:00

I've not had practical experience bleeding anything but just through thinking about it the second option sounds like it would get air bubbles out.

shirunai · 11-07-2008, 13:08

The handbrake works better now I guess, should I do the same procedure on the front calipers? we have just pressed the pedal on the front with no bubbles what so ever.

If the handbrake is going to work nicely i have to push the pedal, if I do this the handbrake gets superstiff and grips right away if I dont do that I have a 5-10mm travel until the handbrakes bites, is this due to unbleeded brakes?

Should I just bleed bleed bleed and pump another 1liter of fluid in it ?

Regards ANdré

MR-steveo · 11-07-2008, 13:15

i had the same problem for ages, got pissed off and brought a proper master cylinder, an ap racing one,

bleed in 30 seconds and it the bollox now!

royal · 11-07-2008, 13:24

Because you've got the hydro on the same circuit as the footbrake they affect each other in the way you mention. I did find I had to bleed mine again a week later which reduced the amount of travel, but they will always affect each other. I found I got used to it very quickly and rarely have any issues. Usually when you pull the handbrake you are footbraking anyway to shift the weight forward so it works out ok.

royal · 11-07-2008, 13:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR-steveo

i had the same problem for ages, got pissed off and brought a proper master cylinder, an ap racing one,

bleed in 30 seconds and it the bollox now!

Hello mate,
In what way did the AP master cylinder improve things? can you bleed it differently or something?

shirunai · 20-07-2008, 11:03

My handbrake is alot better now, you have to warm up the rear brakes first by pulling the handbrake a few times then its get alot better, I also use a big screwdriver in the driftworks handbrake lever to make even more levrage, the aluminium handbrake lever is bent tho I will fabricate one in thick 6-8mm steel and increase the length by 300mm

10-07-2008, 19:04	#1 (permalink)
shirunai dorifto kingu! Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: ornskoldsvik sweden Posts: 650	Hydraulic handbrake issue Hello I have installed a hydraulic handbrake (dw one with wilwood Master cylinder) to my nissan 200sx rs13 its really hard to lock up the wheels u need so much levrage so you get unfocused if you want to lock up the wheels, we have bleeded today with no bubbles at all. What todo? is the rear orignal brakesetup and blackstuffpads to weak? Regards ANdré edit: additional information the mastercylinder is 0.625 something if I remember correctly, other than the driftworks handbrake the brakesystem is completly orignal got a facelift rs13 if that helps. The bleeding procdure was like this open valve, depress brake and depress handbrake and close did this severaltimes to get no bubbles in the system. Last edited by shirunai : 10-07-2008 at 19:06.

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10-07-2008, 19:12	#2 (permalink)
royal S1- F.T break! Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 4,400	Must still be air in there or something? my hydro completely locks the wheels at any speed.

10-07-2008, 19:24	#3 (permalink)
ChizFab touge runner Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 211	bleed bleed and bleed again mate.

10-07-2008, 19:30	#4 (permalink)
SteveC200 talent bypass Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Essex Posts: 6,081	Youre pulling the handbrake and the pedal at the same time? Try doing them seperately.

10-07-2008, 19:36	#5 (permalink)
shirunai dorifto kingu! Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: ornskoldsvik sweden Posts: 650	how do you mean seperatly ? explain exaclty how to bleed we were two people. 1Open valve 2depress brake pedal some times keep it pressed 3pull handbrake keep it pulled 4close valve And repeat so you dont see airbubbles.

10-07-2008, 20:18	#7 (permalink)
shirunai dorifto kingu! Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: ornskoldsvik sweden Posts: 650	adding? there isnt alot of more brakelines to add, since I am tapping it in on the on the ABSactualtor to the handbrake and then back to the T-peice. I have a Non-return valve/check valve and a hoose and a bottle. When I open the brakevalve my mate is depressing the brakepedal few times until we get fluid in the hose and not letting go of the brakepedal, after that he pulls the hydraulic handbrake and not letting it go after that i close the valve and he lets go of the handbrake and the footbrake and we repeat until we dont see any bubles.

10-07-2008, 20:24	#8 (permalink)
royal S1- F.T break! Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 4,400	You shouldn't press it up and down with the valve open because it will suck air in. Open valve, Press pedal down and hold down (same with hydro) close valve Repeat

10-07-2008, 20:28	#9 (permalink)
shirunai dorifto kingu! Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: ornskoldsvik sweden Posts: 650	just press one time on the footbrake and keep it depressed and pull handbrake and keep it there and close valve ? Or should I do them separatly? open valve press footbrake and keep it there close valve or open valve press footbrake 1time and keep it there pull handbrake 1time and keep it there close valve let go open valve and do it again?

10-07-2008, 21:00	#10 (permalink)
JackMcIntyre doughnutter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Redcar, Teesside Posts: 71	I've not had practical experience bleeding anything but just through thinking about it the second option sounds like it would get air bubbles out.

11-07-2008, 13:08	#11 (permalink)
shirunai dorifto kingu! Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: ornskoldsvik sweden Posts: 650	The handbrake works better now I guess, should I do the same procedure on the front calipers? we have just pressed the pedal on the front with no bubbles what so ever. If the handbrake is going to work nicely i have to push the pedal, if I do this the handbrake gets superstiff and grips right away if I dont do that I have a 5-10mm travel until the handbrakes bites, is this due to unbleeded brakes? Should I just bleed bleed bleed and pump another 1liter of fluid in it ? Regards ANdré

11-07-2008, 13:15	#12 (permalink)
MR-steveo TNS MAN CHILD Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: mk Posts: 2,190	i had the same problem for ages, got pissed off and brought a proper master cylinder, an ap racing one, bleed in 30 seconds and it the bollox now!

11-07-2008, 13:24	#13 (permalink)
royal S1- F.T break! Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 4,400	Because you've got the hydro on the same circuit as the footbrake they affect each other in the way you mention. I did find I had to bleed mine again a week later which reduced the amount of travel, but they will always affect each other. I found I got used to it very quickly and rarely have any issues. Usually when you pull the handbrake you are footbraking anyway to shift the weight forward so it works out ok.

20-07-2008, 11:03	#15 (permalink)
shirunai dorifto kingu! Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: ornskoldsvik sweden Posts: 650	My handbrake is alot better now, you have to warm up the rear brakes first by pulling the handbrake a few times then its get alot better, I also use a big screwdriver in the driftworks handbrake lever to make even more levrage, the aluminium handbrake lever is bent tho I will fabricate one in thick 6-8mm steel and increase the length by 300mm