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14-08-2008, 16:38
| #1 (permalink) |
| MANJI MAN ![]() Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: FAREHAM (Almost-Portsmouth-ish)
Posts: 4,038
| mx5 info please, as im going to look at a couple going to look at a couple of mx5's (1600) and want to know what to look out for, like what typical problems do they have ? from what i gather some are 115bhp and some are 85bhp how do i tell the 2 apart ? also i remember reading somewhere that a some models have engine weakness or something to do with the crankshaft and should be avoided, how do tell ??? cheers |
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14-08-2008, 16:47
| #2 (permalink) |
| Jam Hot Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: MK
Posts: 2,213
| Miata Crankshafts Only early cars have the short nose crank pulley issue. Only very late UK MK1 and MK2 onwards cars have the stupid detuned engine. If you go for an import (which you should because it'll be cheaper and higher spec) then you don't need to worry about the lower power engines. Not much tends to go wrong. Water pump failure is a relatively common issue on older cars. The hydraulic tappets can be noisy. They should tap for a few seconds when the engine is started the quieten down. Even if they don't, though, they can usually be sorted with some oil additive and an oil change. Rebuilding them is a PITA and replacing is expensive. If the hood is old it'll probably leak Check for rust around the sills and the chassis rails. Rails aren't very strong as they're there to dampen vibrations rather than give stiffness, so if they're a bit squashed in places it's no big deal really. Garages often try to jack on them. There are hard points at the front and rear of the chassis rails, so long as these aren't crushed, it's fine. Other than that, just general wear and tear like you'd find on just about any car. Drive a few and you'll soon get a feel for what's good and what's bad. Oh, they also have a lot of adjustability for the alignment, which can get a bit squiffy on older cars with knackered bushes, so if the handling is terrifying, it might just need the alignment sorting. Better to try and find one which isn't though. |
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14-08-2008, 17:31
| #3 (permalink) |
| MANJI MAN ![]() Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: FAREHAM (Almost-Portsmouth-ish)
Posts: 4,038
| ok cheers good info, do all of the 1990 and early 1991 cars have the short nosed crank or just some of them ? as one of the cars im gonna look at is a G reg and the other is 1991 (dont know if its early or late). will just going for a J reg (aug 91) or newer guarantee the car i get has a long nose crank ? Last edited by robbs : 14-08-2008 at 17:45. |
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15-08-2008, 09:13
| #4 (permalink) |
| EuroDrift's slowest loser ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: three feet away from a tiny little turbo
Posts: 1,615
| The later cars might have had a second hand short nose crank engine dropped in as a replacement, so best have a good hard look at engine numbers and that. Other common problems are: rubbish handbrake, finding the previous owner has covered the car in chrome tat and everyone shouting "gaaaaaaaay" at you when you drive past. There is free power to be had on the 1.6 by advancing the timing to 14 degrees - search on MX5OC forum for angst ridden accounts of how to do it and how damn awesome it is afterwards. You can also remove and sell the cat from a 92 or earlier car with no MOT problems. 1.8s can be had for just over a grand and have bigger brakes, bigger clutch, stronger diff, stiffer chassis (more bracing), no stupid AFM and more power. Downsides of a 1.8 are they are slightly heavier and there isn't the supply of cheap shite secondhand turbo kits that there is for the 1.6 (different bore spacing). I'd go 1.8 next time (as I've upgraded my 1.6 to 1.8 bits anyway, apart from the engine). |
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17-08-2008, 17:13
| #7 (permalink) |
| MANJI MAN ![]() Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: FAREHAM (Almost-Portsmouth-ish)
Posts: 4,038
| Well i just bought one 1991 1.6i cost me £1000 on the nose, thought it was totally standard but there was a few nice suprises on it as well, cusco coilovers, hks air filter and a tein strut brace. needs a few niggles fixing but all in all i love it and its an absolute hoot to drive |
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07-10-2008, 12:50
| #8 (permalink) |
| GRDriftGarage ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Derby fulltime
Posts: 10,682
| What fuel consumption have you been getting from mildly tuned ones? I might need a cheap daily drive but fancy RWD if I can get one, and would rather stick needles in my eyes than drive a Volvo. |
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07-10-2008, 12:58
| #9 (permalink) | |
| Lifestyler! Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: back in bratfud :(
Posts: 1,099
| Quote:
![]() that wasn't driving like a granny either, 90 up a steep motorway, and loads of stop start traffic! btw it was a 1.6 import early model eunos ![]() | |
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07-10-2008, 13:03
| #10 (permalink) |
| Jam Hot Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: MK
Posts: 2,213
| I get mid 20s from mine. That's all in Milton Keynes, and I drive it like I stole it. I'm changing my cylinder head soon in the hope that'll improve my fuel economy. I think high 20s are about right for a 1.8i with basic mods driven in a spirited fashion. Edited to add: If you're around at DWYB tomorrow give me a shout and you can have a look around mine if you like. Last edited by mazdachris : 07-10-2008 at 13:07. |
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07-10-2008, 13:34
| #14 (permalink) | |
| Jam Hot Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: MK
Posts: 2,213
| Quote:
There's not really a lot else that goes wrong with them. Watch out for rot on the sills, especially where the sill joins with the rear quarter. Water pumps can fail on older cars, it's a common point of failure. Other than that it's just general wear and tear, hoods leaking, worn bushes, that kind of thing. Also, see posts above about the short nose crank pulley issue if you're thinking of getting a 1.6i | |
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