Washing cylinder head - Drifting forum

WideBoyS14 · 27-08-2008, 14:50

theres some deposit and blackness

in my cylinder head (1jz).
would it be ok to take the cams, shims and head off the block. leaving the valves, springs, retainers etc in situ, and washing the head at a machinist shop?
or even degreasing and washing it myself? or isit best practice to fully strip it down and then wash.

i dont mind stripping it down just didnt wanna disturb it too much as it works perfectly.

mazdachris · 27-08-2008, 14:57

There are plenty of cylinder head specialists around, you're best off finding a good one local to you and talking to them about what it is that you need.

I had an old A-Series cylinder head chemically cleaned and a broken stud replaced for a fairly small amount of money. Didn't remove the valves or rockers etc.

Suppose it depends on if you just want it cleaned up, or properly reconditioned with new bits and bobs. Might be worth having your valve seats, shims etc all done as well to give a new lease of life.

topi · 27-08-2008, 14:58

To be honest, if I had the head off the engine, I'd strip it all down and wash it anyway. Just be very organised and keep the right valves with the right springs etc etc. (I normally use small plastic bags and label each set up)

Oven cleaner works very well for de-coking the chambers and ports - though it'll still be some effort. Then just clean everything as you would any other part, blow it all through and lap the valves back in.

Deffinately something you can do yourself if you have a clean space to do it.

retrodan · 27-08-2008, 14:58

i had my 20v head clean/skimmed with the valves still fitted!!! cost 60 sheets

Mr Bizzle · 27-08-2008, 14:59

Don't tell your Mrs, strip it back to a bare head, cover it in de-greaser and stick it in the dishwasher on the highest setting...

WideBoyS14 · 27-08-2008, 15:08

ive read good and bad things about the dishwasher trick. the thought had crossed my mind though.
the shims are still within the tolerance specified by toyota. just trying to decide whether its worth the full strip, all it needs is just a good clean really. is re-lapping the valves going to give any significant improvement?

the car felt flipping fast when we took it on the test run (bog standard) and idled and ran sweet. just wanted to remove all deposits from the head.

topi · 27-08-2008, 15:23

No you wont notice any improvment. Just something I'd do for peace of mind really. Replace the stem seals, get rid of all the coke build up and lap the valves so I know theyre nice.
It's also a good thing to be able to do anyway, so you may aswell learn it now.

Doing it with the valves in is a bit gay, it doesn't take long to remove them.

PhatBob · 27-08-2008, 15:25

Keeping the shims and and valve train parts in order is simple - use freezer bags and write on them E1, E2 ... E12 - I1, I2 ... I12
Dont leave anything to luck, any machine shop will get a huge throughput of parts so if you loose something then you are in a world of upset and bad times.
Scrub it yourself using some water soluble degreaser then get the machine shop to hot wash it.
Then when you're reassembling the head you'll find your hands are as clean when you've finished as when you started, and when it goes back on the block you'll see just how crusty your block is - and wish that you'd had that cleaned too

Gtstarga · 27-08-2008, 15:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by topi

Oven cleaner works very well for de-coking the chambers and ports

I would not use oven cleaner, it has an acid in it that will cause damage to aluminuim. Although I use heavy duty stuff at work (a kitchen BTW) we only use it on stainless steel parts and nothing else!

WideBoyS14 · 27-08-2008, 15:41

the e1...e2 method is how i made note of the tolerances on the shims

anyone got any good links for a decent valve removal tool. i've seen one that looks like a long punch, which can be used for removal and re-assembly.

gonna strip it down properly and give it a proper clean. shall i leave the stems in place, and just replace the seals?

Gtstarga · 27-08-2008, 15:47

Here is the currently being translated 1JZ service manual. I donated it about a year ago.

WideBoyS14 · 27-08-2008, 15:51

thats got a few more pages than the one i had. ive got the 2jz gte one which is pretty much the same, and complete

one last question, would it be safe to re-use the same head gasket? in the service manual it says there not reusable??

Gtstarga · 27-08-2008, 15:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by WideBoyS14

thats got a few more pages than the one i had. ive got the 2jz gte one which is pretty much the same, and complete

one last question, would it be safe to re-use the same head gasket? in the service manual it says there not reusable??

No you can't, they have black flim on them that helps seal them. They are readly available from Toyota, not sure on price but the kit is very good.

I also have copies of that manual on CD sat here doing nothing, it is still in Japonese but if you want a copy just shout me a PM and I will send you 1.

WideBoyS14 · 27-08-2008, 16:03

im heading down toyota tmrw, so will find out how much they are. thanks for the info. the 2jz manual i have is in english?

have a look here

Turbosupras.com - Technical Articles - TSRM

Polo · 27-08-2008, 16:03

While its off, pop the valves out, check the seats valves etc and get it water washed(high pressure).
Or what i do, stick it in the degreaser bath and use a drill with a mop head(plastic mop/blue or red), hose it down then blow dry it with compressed air.
Put all the valves back in and give them a light lap in

topi · 27-08-2008, 16:05

Do you mean the valve guides? Yes leave them in place.

Gtstarga - I've never had a problem with the cleaners I use on a fair number of heads now. Though I wouldn't reccomend getting the stuff on your skin eh haha.

sideways.taff · 27-08-2008, 17:07

I just used petrol to clean my M30 head up. Stripped the cam gear out and got the local machine shop to skim the head and remove and fit new exhaust and thermostat housing studs for £42 (I beat you Chapman ner ner!). I stripped the valves out then to clean and degrease the whole head and blow out all the swarf and dirt from all the ports.

Before:

After:

The whole of the outsides have now been washed with petrol and a tooth brush too. Took no more than 25mins to clean the whole head. Its now back together with lapped valves and increased shinyness!

Be organised:

Gtstarga · 27-08-2008, 19:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by WideBoyS14

im heading down toyota tmrw, so will find out how much they are. thanks for the info. the 2jz manual i have is in english?

have a look here

Turbosupras.com - Technical Articles - TSRM

This is 1JZ specifc. I don't want any money I am happy just to post you a copy, like I said they have been burned off and are going to waste.

I have a few and am willing to get shot of them without any prob's if anyone else is interested. It is in Japonese but worth a look if you have a 1JZ!!

Gtstarga · 27-08-2008, 19:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by topi

Gtstarga - I've never had a problem with the cleaners I use on a fair number of heads now. Though I wouldn't reccomend getting the stuff on your skin eh haha.

I just know that the stuff I use at work stains the metal, not sure if it does any damage but I would not want to do it. But if it works then all good!!!

27-08-2008, 14:50	#1 (permalink)
WideBoyS14 JZS14FTW Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: cheam/sutton Posts: 491	Washing cylinder head theres some deposit and blackness in my cylinder head (1jz). would it be ok to take the cams, shims and head off the block. leaving the valves, springs, retainers etc in situ, and washing the head at a machinist shop? or even degreasing and washing it myself? or isit best practice to fully strip it down and then wash. i dont mind stripping it down just didnt wanna disturb it too much as it works perfectly.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

27-08-2008, 14:57	#2 (permalink)
mazdachris Jam Hot Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: MK Posts: 2,213	There are plenty of cylinder head specialists around, you're best off finding a good one local to you and talking to them about what it is that you need. I had an old A-Series cylinder head chemically cleaned and a broken stud replaced for a fairly small amount of money. Didn't remove the valves or rockers etc. Suppose it depends on if you just want it cleaned up, or properly reconditioned with new bits and bobs. Might be worth having your valve seats, shims etc all done as well to give a new lease of life.

27-08-2008, 14:58	#3 (permalink)
topi KlutchKickKidz Join Date: May 2005 Location: Leicestershire/Derby Posts: 4,688	To be honest, if I had the head off the engine, I'd strip it all down and wash it anyway. Just be very organised and keep the right valves with the right springs etc etc. (I normally use small plastic bags and label each set up) Oven cleaner works very well for de-coking the chambers and ports - though it'll still be some effort. Then just clean everything as you would any other part, blow it all through and lap the valves back in. Deffinately something you can do yourself if you have a clean space to do it.

27-08-2008, 14:58	#4 (permalink)
retrodan celebs in car Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: sittingbourne,kent Posts: 3,080	i had my 20v head clean/skimmed with the valves still fitted!!! cost 60 sheets

27-08-2008, 14:59	#5 (permalink)
Mr Bizzle Team DWYB Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Beaconsfield, Bucks Posts: 4,228	Don't tell your Mrs, strip it back to a bare head, cover it in de-greaser and stick it in the dishwasher on the highest setting...

27-08-2008, 15:08	#6 (permalink)
WideBoyS14 JZS14FTW Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: cheam/sutton Posts: 491	ive read good and bad things about the dishwasher trick. the thought had crossed my mind though. the shims are still within the tolerance specified by toyota. just trying to decide whether its worth the full strip, all it needs is just a good clean really. is re-lapping the valves going to give any significant improvement? the car felt flipping fast when we took it on the test run (bog standard) and idled and ran sweet. just wanted to remove all deposits from the head.

27-08-2008, 15:23	#7 (permalink)
topi KlutchKickKidz Join Date: May 2005 Location: Leicestershire/Derby Posts: 4,688	No you wont notice any improvment. Just something I'd do for peace of mind really. Replace the stem seals, get rid of all the coke build up and lap the valves so I know theyre nice. It's also a good thing to be able to do anyway, so you may aswell learn it now. Doing it with the valves in is a bit gay, it doesn't take long to remove them.

27-08-2008, 15:25	#8 (permalink)
PhatBob Ken Block??? Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Newmarket Posts: 1,778	Keeping the shims and and valve train parts in order is simple - use freezer bags and write on them E1, E2 ... E12 - I1, I2 ... I12 Dont leave anything to luck, any machine shop will get a huge throughput of parts so if you loose something then you are in a world of upset and bad times. Scrub it yourself using some water soluble degreaser then get the machine shop to hot wash it. Then when you're reassembling the head you'll find your hands are as clean when you've finished as when you started, and when it goes back on the block you'll see just how crusty your block is - and wish that you'd had that cleaned too

27-08-2008, 15:41	#10 (permalink)
WideBoyS14 JZS14FTW Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: cheam/sutton Posts: 491	the e1...e2 method is how i made note of the tolerances on the shims anyone got any good links for a decent valve removal tool. i've seen one that looks like a long punch, which can be used for removal and re-assembly. gonna strip it down properly and give it a proper clean. shall i leave the stems in place, and just replace the seals?

27-08-2008, 15:47	#11 (permalink)
Gtstarga doughnutter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Bristol, UK Posts: 62	Here is the currently being translated 1JZ service manual. I donated it about a year ago.

27-08-2008, 15:51	#12 (permalink)
WideBoyS14 JZS14FTW Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: cheam/sutton Posts: 491	thats got a few more pages than the one i had. ive got the 2jz gte one which is pretty much the same, and complete one last question, would it be safe to re-use the same head gasket? in the service manual it says there not reusable??

27-08-2008, 16:03	#14 (permalink)
WideBoyS14 JZS14FTW Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: cheam/sutton Posts: 491	im heading down toyota tmrw, so will find out how much they are. thanks for the info. the 2jz manual i have is in english? have a look here Turbosupras.com - Technical Articles - TSRM

27-08-2008, 16:03	#15 (permalink)
Polo Team Green! Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: In the workshop! Posts: 2,763	While its off, pop the valves out, check the seats valves etc and get it water washed(high pressure). Or what i do, stick it in the degreaser bath and use a drill with a mop head(plastic mop/blue or red), hose it down then blow dry it with compressed air. Put all the valves back in and give them a light lap in

27-08-2008, 16:05	#16 (permalink)
topi KlutchKickKidz Join Date: May 2005 Location: Leicestershire/Derby Posts: 4,688	Do you mean the valve guides? Yes leave them in place. Gtstarga - I've never had a problem with the cleaners I use on a fair number of heads now. Though I wouldn't reccomend getting the stuff on your skin eh haha.

27-08-2008, 17:07	#17 (permalink)
sideways.taff -NightWalkers- Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: West Wales Posts: 5,537	I just used petrol to clean my M30 head up. Stripped the cam gear out and got the local machine shop to skim the head and remove and fit new exhaust and thermostat housing studs for £42 (I beat you Chapman ner ner!). I stripped the valves out then to clean and degrease the whole head and blow out all the swarf and dirt from all the ports. Before: After: The whole of the outsides have now been washed with petrol and a tooth brush too. Took no more than 25mins to clean the whole head. Its now back together with lapped valves and increased shinyness! Be organised: