Hey guys so my mates trying to sell me his rx7 which wont start. He sent the engine away to be rebuilt and has recites and it did work for awhile but has stopped now. So I have a few questions any idea what the problem is? Or is it worth me taking out that engine selling it (any idea of what its worth? ) and putting in an sr20? And anyone on here tried it?
plenty of info on sr20 to rx conversions, google it. do a compression test on it, what does it do when you turn the key could be a range of problems
suffer from flooding aswell. take plugs out an injection/fuel fuse out. then crank engine over for 10 secs. put plugs back in and fuse and try to start again. if that doesnt work they will usually tow start.
ok update guys my mate said the car tow starts but needs tow starting every time any way i can fix this? also im not a fan of the rotary engines so i wont be keeping it any idea what its worth?
Needing a tow start every time doesn't sound good. I'd suggest the apex seals are dead but if it's had a recent rebuild i guess the water seals could have died. They tend to deteriorate if the engine is left flooded for long periods of time. Theres lot's of things it could be tbh
What! Is it an FB,FC,FD? Turbo? Where was the rebuild? Is it under warranty? Is the compression ok? More info is needed Like any car there are loads of reasons it might not start, check these first before ripping the engine out. An sr20 conversion is a big job (I know cus I tried) to be honest it would probably be cheaper to get the rotary sorted. If its an FD get on to FDUK those guys will give you more info on an Rx than your brain will handle. : )
What this guy said, not necessarily a goosed engine, especially if it's just been rebuilt. But surely if it's been done by anyone good it will have a warentee?? If the engine is fucked, it's worth cock all.
Warranty is probably not worth the paper it's written on, it usually isn't. And depending what's wrong, even IF it's broke, it's still worth a bit.
Depends what company it is I guess, I used to work for WGT and I know their warranty was pretty legit.
Check plugs are good, also if when it has been started has it been run up to temp or turned off when cold as they need to hit temp everytime. If it's blown a tip strip engine and sell good stuff individually you will get more money, water seal failure engine worth £400 ish, low compression £800 plus, high compression I,e 6 bar plus £2k. And try and get it running properly and drive it, I rebuilt mine 7 years ago 400 plus hp and gets it's head kicked in everytime it's driven 30,000 miles plus (2 years drifting) and it's still going strong high maintenance engine but big smiles everytime.
If your really worried get it compression tested first and go from there, change the plugs and do the usual flooded procedure. You haven't said how it actually runs or what it's like. If your dead set on changing the engine you might aswell go the whole hog and go rb or 2jz route. The rotary lump is a pain in the arse at times but there's a lot less to go wrong with it than a normal engine and in my opinion simpler to work on. Join mazdarotaryclub.com mate, there's loads of us on there and people more than willing to help.
