Hello all! after reading and enjoying a lot of build threats i thought i'll post my own. The car iam playing with is an old volvo 244. After doing the T-5 Swap that haff the word already did, And broke down after a year iam now going to build a 2JZ into the chasis. Raw part list: -2JZ-GE -Holset HX35 -Bmw Gearbox -Adapter plate -Ebay manifold -Short shifter -Original BMW clutch Probertly forgot something.. I'll add the other things later.
After first looking at an engine here in holland that was supposed to be good, but had distribution damage and all valve's broken i bougt one off ebay england. The engine is out of a lexus and hass 160.000 km on it, Perfect!
Oh fuck! This is my dream conversion, but a GTE into a 242. Here in the UK you could pick up a low mileage GE for 100 quid. Please keep this updated as Ill do it myself in the near future. Doing my research I found this site, its a 1JZ but obviously the process is identical Conversion [Volvo 264TT-R]
Cool, i can't wait to see more of those swaps around! There are a lot of things i would do different than the guy with the 1JZ swap, Butt you'll see Two days after i got the engine in me, my girlfriend and her family went on a holyday. While everyone was reading a book at the poolside i was looking into BMW gearboxes and adapter plates. After a shit load of reading i found out that the ZF GS6-53DZ was the gearbox for me. With the short final drive of all the volvo's an overdrive gear is a must. All the bmw 5 speed boxes have a highest gear ratio of 1:1 while the 6th gear is an overdrive. So, 6 speed it has to be! A week later:
Obviously the gearbox wont bolt up to the engine. To make it fit i bought the PMC motorsport adapter kit. Buying it was a piece of cake... But getting some support is a whole different story. After some time i got the answer that it's not usable with the 6 speed transmission. Then the fun part began, Finding out why it wont fit. The gearbox i bought has the old type of pilot bearing so that wont be the problem. After some measuring i found out that pilot shaft is shorter than on the 5 speed. That means that the clutch plate won't be fully supported by the spines. The solution is moving the whole gearbox 8mm closer to the engine, or make the flywheel come 8mm closser to the gearbox. I chose to move the gearbox closer to the engine. The original adapter-plate is 20mm thick aluminum. By remaking the plate of 12mm steel it will be just as strong and fit perfectly! (drawings are available on request) Oops.. Forgot abbout the starter holes
Got this ebay beauty, Needs a porting job but other than that it looks descent. Anyone els using one of these? After making holes for the starter the engine and gearbox bolt up perfect. "i love it when a plan comes together" With this all done it's now time to do some pre-fab for monting this beast in the car. Plates for the motor mounts, Done! Also made some adapters for the oil temperature and pressure sensor. Anyone used one of those BMW ebay short shifters?
Love this. Proper build. The shifters that bolt to the tunnel are great as it does away with the support bar just the shifter linkage/bar is needed.
The T-5 now has to leave the car, i'll first post some images of the car. And the engine bay with the volvo still in it While removing the engine and gearbox i realized what a lot of work gets thrown away. Luckily i got in contact with a guy from texel who wanted to have the parts for his T-5 project, Perfect! The engine mounts we made for the volvo engine seem to line up perfect for the toyota
out with the old.. in with the new! ready to go in: seems to fit like it's made for it! and the manifold on, plenty of space here! because the engine has a front mount sump it has to be as much forward as plausible witch gives al lot more space to work at the back of the engine and make it easier to fabricate a down-pipe. The T-5 that was in there before had a rear sump and i've had to losen and lower the subframe and brake lines every time i wanted to remove the engine, so this is a big improvement!
Some more stuff done! I didn't weld in a long time, but they turned out ok some quick, temporary paint and fitted Don't know if its visible on the photo but i had to grind a little off the right mount to make the exhaust manifold fit. Next thing to do is the gearbox mount.
it's time for al little update made the second engine mount, Then the gearbox mount had to be made. The original mount had not enough space for the 3'' exhaust, every bump i took created some sparks.. So this one needs to have enough room to fit the exhaust. didn't have enough time to let the thick layer of paint dry, so made my own dryer fitted on the car, with plenty of space for the exhaust! have to make a nice fitting plate to replace the quick red testing one. Think i have to make one out of stainless because if it hits the ground, it hits there.
Look what mr postman brought me! The 7blade hx35W with 12cm housing. It's in a pretty good condition but will get rebuild anyway, not sure if i'll do it my self or send it to masterturbo. The Ebay T4-T3 adapters are way to thin to support a good flow and most of them arn't twinscroll, So i had to make one myself. Fit's nice if you ask me! The inside of the spacer will have to get smoothened, but i'll do that when the engine is out again. Then a friend of mine showed up. After we did the usual spin the turbo with your finger test it was time to take some typical snapchat filter photo's to show the rest how it looks, When my mate thought that the size wasn't obvious enough this happend
The internet is full of cheap inlet manifolds for GTE engines, but non for the GE engines. After some searching decided to make one myself. I'll machine the bottom haf of the original manifold flat and make an el cheapo ebay planum fit and weld that on. So this came in today, had to see how it looks immediately
