That would be ideal too, I've found a 200sx breaking which says engine is dead and has very low compression so I've dropped them a message. Short block would be fine too but as i said not that easy to find.
You'd prefer something that has got rod knock over no compression as you'd want the cylinder walls to be in good condition Otherwise you're running the risk of going down the road of boring and oversized pistons instead of say a light hone
In all honesty, UK Fuel Quality from the pump is pretty good. Regular Pump Gas is 93RON which most people use, then up from that. Premium is anything from 97RON to 99RON. Although i have been told you can get 105RON
Yeah we can get 98 at most garages, and the ethanol blends pump it over 100 Pretty easy to get av gas too, just costs about double
Sorry, for some reason i thought you were in the US! lol. I hear their Pump Gas is Crap as far as octane goes
Different units Rich. US use PON (Posted Octane Number) or AKI (Anti Knock Index) and we use RON (Reference Octane Number) PON is (RON+MON)/2 so indicates much lower. Our 98RON is about 94AKI for American pumps
Still not sure on what route im going down, i did find a det block which i was going to use along with my de head and so on but the block was scrap when i received it so back to square one. Other than the engine what else do i need to change, done some searching but get mixed answers and so on, so im not sure. Do i need to change the prop shaft? As people have stated the spec s shaft is alot smaller than the spec r, will a s14 shaft fit? Do i need to change the drive shafts? Do i need to change the diff? Does the spec s have smaller brakes than a spec r? Best brakes to use? Cheers
Don't change any of that. The thing you'd most likely have to change is the clutch and the fuel pump. If you're worried about the brakes then fresh fluid, new pads and machine the rotors will bump up braking performance. Unless you're trying to set lap times everywhere you drive that will be sufficient.
Just re-read my post and i probably wasn't clear, not sure on what route im going down but the car will be turbo and aiming for around 350-400bhp so will any of that need changing if im running that kind of power/torque. Cheers
Again, 400hp is nothing for the factory Spec S driveline. To put it in perspective, people have used the standard Spec S driveshaft, axles and diff in competition drifting with 100hp more than you're looking at. Competition drifting is brutal on drivelines, the shock loading forces with even a 500hp engine are more than what is seen in Nascar. What I'm trying to explain is that it isn't the power levels, it's the way you drive. If you drive like a knuckle dragging numpty, dropping the clutch in 3rd with a road speed of 15mph on 265 tyres you're in for a bad time, even with GTR rear subframes / thick wall prop shaft etc. But assuming you don't drive like you're mentally challenged, but still want reliability, then the factory gear will be absolutely 100% fine, with the exception of the clutch. The clutch is often used as the weak point in factory applications to avoid more costly breakages. However it is the first to fail when pushing the standard package harder, so earmark an upgrade at some point. Worth noting is keeping the clutch as the fail point, but at a higher point. Ie, don't put a twin plate, solid centre clutch in for 400hp as it just moves the failure point to the gearbox now. Look for a 4-5 puck copper ceramic sprung centre clutch (and single mass flywheel if you've got a dual mass flywheel).
Yes i suppose i won't be doing aggressive launches on a drag strip or driving like a tool, not to say i won't put my foot down as that would be a lie. The car would only really be used on weekends/maybe somtimes week nights but mainly weekends so reliability is a must as I'd be going away alot in it over the weekends but obviously a decent bit of power is also a must haha.
Been awhile but I currently have a det block which I will use with my de head and everything else, I have purchased a set of forged pistons which are 9.5:1 I know the det's use 8.5:1 but I couldn't turn these down for the price they were. What thickness head gasket should I use due to the higher comp pistons and the fact I'll be using boost? Should I just go for the thickest I can get to bring the compression down as much as I can or?
I'd go for a reputable brand and the thickest the offer. Cometic's have a good rep but i believe both surfaces need to be dead flat (ie machined)
I also won't be running high boost anyway, a quick spool at around 350hp is what I'm aiming for, so no record breaking going on. I was going for a cosworth gasket. I need some work doing on the block anyway do ill also send the head in when it's to do the conversation I'll have both surfaces checked and skimmed if they need it.
I've pretty much got everything together other than a few small pieces here and there. The biggest and more complicated thing now is the ECU, am I better going for a piggy back or a standalone? Would a piggy back work on my ECU as it's a non turbo ECU? If I did go for a new standalone Link ECU or similar would it be a plug and play with my S15 since I'm using the stock wiring loom and so on.
Stand-alone is best, you might get away with a Nistune solution, probs best to speak to the person who's going to map it.
Had a quick search but it's very vague, is there a sticky thread or something for good tuners around the UK?
You can't get a Nistune board for the S15 non-turbo ECU, so that idea is straight out of the window. Before I got a DET-engine for super cheap I was working on turboing my DE aswell, I had plans to just use a Megasquirt2 as my tuner really knows his way around them, but any standalone should be able to handle it with adding a trigger disc to the distributor.
