Cool, good to know about the intake not changing it. Did it still smoke as much? When you pull the plugs you want to see if the tip of 1 in particular is caked in soot / gunky oil. Or if all 4 are That amount of smoke indicates oil is getting in in big quantities, and too much to be a valve stem seal IMO. If you pull the hot side intercooler piping and there is no oil in it then it could be something else. A PCV valve being faulty / the wrong way around could be one, so try disconnecting it and plugging up the hole.Does the turbo intake have any pipes going to it from a catch can or crank case breather?
I've just remembered that the oil feed pipe for the turbo I bought had 2 fittings with 2 different hole sizes in them and I put the bigger size in so could too much oil be going in? The intercooler piping I bought had 3 outlets on the intake, one big about 35mm a medium at 16mm and a tiny 5mm, so I've connected the 2 bigger outlets to the 2 breather pipes that the stock DE had. So I've connected the left pipe to that big outlet on the intake, and the right pipe to a outlet that's just under that on the underside of the intake. Not sure what to do with the small 5mm one. {}
That is possible, pull the turbo intake and outlet pipes off and see if there is oil present, but read on as i think i've spotted your issue... When I said turbo intake, I mean the pipe going from the AFM to the inlet on the turbo, not the intercooler piping from the intercooler to the throttle body. But that's beside the point. To explain the 3 pipes on the intercooler piping: 35mm = recirculation valve (BOV) 16mm = idle control 5mm = boost reference And the two pipes you have: Left (snaking down under the throttle body) = idle control Right (going across front of engine into the turbo-side rocker cover) = rocker cover breather Remove the Right pipe from the 16mm port and block the hose or run it to a catch can. DO NOT leave it connected it to the intercooler piping. On a factory SR20DET, the turbo-side rocker cover breather goes to the turbo inlet in order to see vacuum. Where you have it will result in the rocker cover (and thus head) seeing boost pressure Take the left pipe off the 35mm port and fit it to the 16mm port. You may need to rotate the hose or get a new one that reaches. Block the 35mm port if you don't want to run a BOV/recirc valve
Ahhhh ok will check the inlet to the turbo tonight, and if there is oil should I put the smaller restrictor in the oil feed. I did buy a stock SR20det turbo inlet hose which has the outlet blocked off for that so should I connect up the rocker cover breather to it if that's how it is as stock? Until I buy a oil catch can.
No oil in the turbo intake although it is 2nd hand so there is a little but it looks like it was already in there. Connected the breathers up as you said and I also got the timing light out again and the ignition timing is hopping around 0 to 10 degress btdc so not sure where is best to set the ignition timing. After all that I ran it for 10/15 mins and there isn't anywhere as much smoke and it does idle alot better but still a little rough. Would harder engine mounts make it seem like it's vibrating the car alot?
Until you get your smoke issue under control i'd block it off. I'd also block off the PCV valve hose (rear hose on the intake side of the rocker cover). The PCV might have become faulty from the way you had the breather hooked up, so is worth doing even in the long run. What engine mounts? Solid or poly? Need you to also pull the hot side intercooler pipe going from the turbo into the intercooler and check if this has oil. If it doesn't, then we know the oil was getting in post-turbo. Best to ask google on setting base timing on an SR20DE as I haven't done it myself.
The turbo inlet came already bunged so I left it blocked off but I'll block the others off when I get chance, and I'll check the intercooler pipe. Yes they are the japspeed poly. Definitely going in the right direction anyway as it was running alot better.
Once you've blocked those hoses and got the timing 100% clean up the spark plugs / put a fresh set in (don't forget to gap them to 0.8 too) Let it run for a good amount of time, getting up to operating temp and see if it will clear itself. If you can, take it for 10min drive staying completely out of boost. Judging by the amount of smoke in the pic it's had a massive amount of oil through it, so the valves will be properly caked and will need some temperature to clean them up. Check back in once you're through that!
If there are open vacuum lines or ports on the intercooler piping, turbo intake or coming off the inlet plenum then yes they would affect the idle Block any lines or ports that aren't hooked up
Did all you said to and it ran really well but still smokey as hell, so I though maybe it's the turbo oil seals? I just went ahead and took the turbo off and the manifold and one the manifold was off I found this. Very black, wet and oily coming from 2/3/4 but 1 is dry. Piston rings gone? So oil is getting past into the cylinders? {}
Just a tad more info Pulled the downpipe off and it is caked in oil so there has been a fair amount coming out, there isn't oil in any of the intercooler piping or inlets. Compression across all cylinders cold is 120-130 but would they not be alot lower if rings are scrap? I put the engine back to "NA" shall we say so I blocked off all the oil and water ports for the turbo and stuck the De manifold on and connect all the stock stuff back up, ran absolutely fine but still really smoked but I don't know if that's just because there is still alot of excess of oil from before. It's definitely coming from the cylinders but I'm not sure what the causes are of oil getting into the cylinders other than pistons rings are shot but they are brand new pistons and rings and bored cylinders.
First question is: have you blocked the PCV valve now? This feeds into the rear of the inlet plenum so may have been dumping oil there, thus affecting the rear-most cylinders. Seeing as though you've got the engine that far apart, are you able to check the inlet plenum as well? If that is dry, and the back of the inlet valves are dry then it's combustion related. Next, how much oil (in litres) have you been putting in? And do you have one of those winged sumps? If all that checks out then it is pointing at cracked rings, but potentially only cylinder 1. The compression pushes past the rings on cylinder 1, pressurising the crank case and blowing the oil past cylinders 2, 3 and 4's rings.
I do have a larger capacity winged sump but I've got the stock sump fitted at the moment. Can't rembremer at the minute how much in litres I put in but I got it to just under high in the dipstick. I did forget to block that pvc and when I took the pipe off there is oil in it. Took the top half of the manifold off and it all seems dry and clean but the bottom half has pools of oil/fuel as you can see in the pictures. 2/3/4 have pools of oil but 1 has a little bit of dried oil in it but nothing much. {} {}
Sweet, so the oil is getting in pre-combustion chamber. Looking less like rings and more like faulty PCV valve Pull the lower half of the inlet plenum off and clean all oil out Block the PCV completely (both ends) Spray some WD40-type penetrating oil on the exhaust ports as well and clean as much of the oil off there Reassemble and run it again With all possible links from the inlet to the oil galleries blocked you should be good to go
I'll get on that when I get chance and with hopefully good news. Again I genuinely do Google and research but it's never anything solid so thanks again for the help really appreciate it.
No problem dude You're actually mucking in and having a go. I respect that immensely so want to help as much as i can
Either check the oil level before you run or change it completely if it's massively contaminated with petrol.
