Hello, I'm new to the drift world, I'm preparing my car right now. I'm french Canadian so my english can be bad sorry 'bout that. So, my setup in big words, not finished but in progress: Black 190e Mercedes with ABS Supra 2JZGTE engine, stock for now but 3" exhaust, 3.5" e-cutout to the front right fender, water-meth, big fmic, 700hp external fuel pump setup, blahblah, W58 transmission Skyline R32 GTR VLSD rear diff BMW E36 coilovers, big OEM swaybars, TOPSPEED camber kit, etc Mercedes 400e 4pistons 12" front brakes, 300e rear brakes, 500e master cylinder Mercedes C-Series AMG wheels, 8.5" and 9.5" with 215/35R18 tires (nice stretch!) Ok so I'm building the brake setup right now. Planning to use an hydraulic e-brake. I remove the ABS unit and every lines on the car. Already got SS brake lines to calipers so I'll only redo the hard lines. The reason of my post is that I'm not sure about the master cylinder exits. I've read about if the 1st master exit broke, the 2nd will work to be able to stop the car. So, I will use the 1st exit for rear brakes and 2nd for front with a T. Is that right? From the 1st exit, I'll go to the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve next to the handbrake, then in the 92-00 Honda Civic clutch master cylinder attached to the handbrake, and go to rear center of the car to a T and finally to the calipers. I want to be sure that is ok before doing the work. Thank you all drifters, I appreciate you help!
Hi mate,what are you expecting to break on the m/cylinder? If the seals leak internally,its going to affect the front and rear brakes,so,other than a blockage or pipe breaking/leaking,thers nothing else that can go wrong with the actual cylinder.The front and rear are seperated lines,(ie.not one exit splitting into 4 ways) to allow for failure,so thers always some braking effort from the master cylinder if one of the two fails,as long as thers fluid. What you said sounds fine,as youre removing the abs unit,are you keepng the load sensing valve too? Car looks sweet btw!
Thank you for your reply. I want something different for a drift car.. already got a BMW E30 in the past, but I've never seen W201 Benz on a drift track so this is why I'm building it. So, yes, I was thinking about internally leakage failure in the master cylinder. I've read that the 1st piston (nearest to the pedal) fail/leak more often than the 2nd. If the 1st piston leak/fail, the 2nd will still work because the 1st piston physically push the 2nd without need of fluid. That way, if a piston leak occurs you can't loss all your brakes but 50% of them (front or rear). The chance that the two pistons fails in the same time is small. So the 2nd piston is more "reliable" than the 1st, I'll use it for front brakes. I think that the majority of OEM non-abs brake system are made this way. In the case of 1st piston failure, I'll be able to use the front brakes and control my rear brakes with the hydraulic handbrake to maintain stability to stop the car safely. I think I'm okay this way. What is the load sensing valve for? edit: I've read about the load sensing valve. I don't think I got this on my car, I personnaly removed all bolts on the car and never seen that thing on the brake system. There's one line coming from the front of the car, split in a T and go directly in the rear calipers. Thank you again, I appreciate. And sorry for my english, I made good efforts but I'm not sure of it.
Luvvvvvvvly! I am currently doing a 300E turbo project & stumbled upon your build. I'm interested in it all lol but particularly with the brakes & LSD set up. Could you pls tell me what needs to be done/modded to fit either the Skyline R32 GTR VLSD rear diff you have fitted or the R33 active LSD? I know your 190E has narrower track than the 300E but if the RB diff simply bolts up to your stock axle housings & axles etc, @ the diff housing flanges it seems pretty basic an install? Any info would be so apreciated. Cheers, Tim.
