manifold specs hi just wondering what size pipe you used for the ends and side wall of your inlet manifold and where you scourced the tumpets from? thanks tom
Thanks I most admit that I was a bit nervous doing so, but it worked out great. On the inlet manifold I used 100x4mm 6082 T6 and the tumpets are from www.klracing.se and was 54mmx2mm, they were of unknown quality. And a small update on this week`s progress, on Monday my dad got the fuelcell mounting brakets done, and he drove out to a scrapyard and found a M10 engine from a 318, and got the flywheel for a decent prize...finally and he got a friend to center the clutch and mill of extra weights. While I have wraped the exhoust manifold with heat bandage and mounted it on the engine. Also made brackets for mounting the fuelrail, while doing that I realised that it would crash with the valve cover breather, and it needed more modifying to get the VAG coils to fit to. Good thing I got that cover all painted and shiny at the start of the project But tomorrow I`m going with a friend ho also has a "odd" engine swap, a volvo B230 16v turbo in a s13 to check and adjust his fuel map on a homemade dyno, that`s going to be cool to check out.
thanks for sharing that, i always look at the progress of this swap it shows great imagination and potential
No pictures yet, can't put the engine in as I have to move the car 1 meter forward to do that and I don't have a suspension parts fitted :\
That`s the one, but I think Sindre owns it. I think Trond aimed on getting it fixed for Rudskogen on Monday, but it needed a complete new map, so it`s on to the dynopack next week I think. It was a pretty "simple" and cleaver way of making a roller type resistance, and it works great, but it looks a bit sketchy
It`s been going slow lately, just playing around with the new TIG welder and trying new setups. I`ve had issues welding the valve cover, trying to find the right rods to use, but I think I found it to day. Also picked up some parts that are friend Arild made, he`s done a great job on milling and center the Tilton clutch to the M10 flywheel. He also made some brass bushes for the gear shifter. AN16 for water to the heater. Threads for back pressure and temp sensors during mapping.
Fantastic work!! Loving the fab work and I feel your pain with making up jigs etc,right pain but worth it in the end
It`s about time I updated this thread. The engine is in the car and it starts..but it was a short celebration caused by low oil pressure. I was really "bummed out " when I saw the oil pressure was only 0.8bar at 1200rpm, and it only climbed to 1.8-2bar when I reved it up to 3000rpm. It should be that on idle, so we shut it down after that. On the bright side I was happy it started since it was my first time hooking up a engine management system So after it started, I removed the oil filter housing that I have rewelded to AN fittings becouse it has to be the problem. I have also checked the oil pan with a camera to check that the pump doesen`t leak and actually sucks up oil. It`s now at least a month since I last worked on the car, so I guess it`s about time to get back at it again Here are some pictures of whats been done so far The pink bleed valve was just a test, I`m using a MAC valve AN16 fittings to heater and servo hooked up. Hopefully it`s this thats couses the problem, I got a "new" one that wil be rewelded. Pressure box for the map sensor and other stuff. Wires hooked up and pressure tubes connected with each throttle bodies. The turbo side is done, I started it without the inlet becouse it needs more work. I dont now if I have mentioned it but I`m also jusing a Davies Craig el-water pump. Here's a small video of the start up
just started reading this, and lookign at the photos it reminded me of old zatzy.com threads, where people just cut stuff up, and put it back together with amazing fab skills, then i find out this is a scandic car anyway! awesome stuff. riktigt snygg!
