The HOLSET Thread

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by dale_b, Nov 23, 2012.

  1. blownhemi

    blownhemi Member

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    So, not knowing the guy, and not knowing the turbos, you think YOU still wouldn't find any of the points I brought up suspicious in the very least? They would have no merit whatsoever?

    "Used one" meaning one off of an actual Leyland engine, that never had its turbo replaced, or only with an OEM unit, or a "used one" means one of these units, just used?

    Actually, I think I know what has happened here. It's not actually counterfeit. Well, at least not all af it. A reseller like Comp. Racing wouldn't risk their reputation by selling China crap. I'm thinking it's all genuine Holset where it matters. And where it doesn't matter at all, like a large piece of cast iron, or a large piece of cast aluminium, some stamped steel, or some rubber hose, it isn't. People still get genuine Holset technology, performance, and anvil-like reliability. Just cheaper. Everybody wins, in a way. Ask your friend if I hit the nail on the head.
     
  2. strawberrys14a

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  3. blownhemi

    blownhemi Member

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    Actually, the manual confirms what I'm trying to tell, but maybe my wording was off. By bracket, I meant the part of the compressor housing that the actuator diaphragm housing is bolted to, that fork-like flat protrusion with two holes in it. On the unit in question, it has no triangular webbing (?) on the back or front to support the bending or breaking of that part by the actuator mechanism movement. On the Type C installation, that this turbo belongs to, has this webbing between the protrusion and the compressor housing to strengthen it against this bending force. (Actually, all installation Types have some kind of webbing there.)

    And yeah, I was wrong about the plug. It is there. I still doubt, though, that Holset's idea of keeping it in place is hammering the two parts together with a damn chisel. Welding them together, on the other hand, sounds more credible to me.
    Turbocharger - 3596647, 4025227 Cummins Diverse 1813-0098
    2001- Cummins Truck HY35W Turbo 3596647

    Still, all of this does not doubt the genuineness of the all-important CHRA in the slightest. If these things held up to all that is advertised, at the very least the complete CHRA must be genuine.

    So are the quick-release hose clamps. My guess is, nobody is using any part of that internal wastegate mechanism, at these power levels they're running externals.
     
  4. strawberrys14a

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    [​IMG]

    It is there - outlined in red (best pic of it on the ebay ad)
     
  5. blownhemi

    blownhemi Member

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    True. Wrong again. To me, that looked like the continuation of another edge.
     
  6. Stavros

    Stavros Active Member

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    As shown above, there is a bracket, it's exactly as it should be, as it's a comp housing direct from a fucking Holset factory lol.

    They're not intended to be 'Leyland' turbos btw, as they're used on everything under the sun. The used ones I have, which are 100% identical, are actually off a SupaCat military vehicle. Unless you going to claim the British Army use fake Holsets? lol.

    If you read the listing, just like the 12cm HX35s that countless people on here run from him, to enable him to get past Holsets pricing structure and complete unwillingness to help the aftermarket tuning scene, he buys genuine Holset CHRA assemble and the comp housings, then gets the turbine housing made elsewhere. He openly says that on the listing lol.

    Without paying money that nobody is willing to pay for a Holset, it was next to impossible to get them for sensible money with the correct turbine housings. Always has been. But by doing exactly what Bullseye used to do (lots of people on here have ran Holsets with the Bullseye .63 housings etc, still very common on DSMs etc) and getting the turbine housing cast elsewhere, it's made them available in the spec people want.
     
  7. blownhemi

    blownhemi Member

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    Now, THAT is actually an explanation. Thank You! You could have opened with that, instead of with the equivalent of "they're genuine, because I've seen them, and I know the guy, and I just say so. lol.". It would have ended the discussion at that instant.

    But you see, I wasn't that far off. The turbo does use a typical Chinese wastegate actuator, the typical lame hose clamps, boost hose, and boost nipple used on every Chinese knockoff turbo, and a turbine housing manufactured in a yet undisclosed location of the globe (but bears a remarkable resemblance to various alibaba offerings of the same turbo). Understand, I'm still not bashing, I never did. I needed a proper explanation for my points, and now, after some detour, I got one.

    Still a little curious about those original back to back pics you mentioned, because you promised me they're identical. What do the original Holset turbine housings use to keep that WG plug at the back in place?
     
  8. Stavros

    Stavros Active Member

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    You are clearly trying to bash something that there's no reason to, I presume you've got some kind of hidden agenda for this, you must sell turbos or something, so I'm bowing out of this conversation, not my battle.

    But how you can claim from a few pics (bearing in mind you couldn't even see what was what until others users above pointed out you was wrong) that the actuator (which is perfect quality), silicone hose (which is what everyone uses on their own cars), and hose clips (which is the OEM fitment style on most cars, from Skylines to whatever) are Chinese shit when they're blatantly better quality than 99% of OEM stuff makes it obvious you're trying to bash it for some reason, and I'm not getting involved in something as pathetic as that- This is a thread about Holsets etc, not your hidden agendas lol, esp on something that's well proven on craploads of cars.

    Another username of that other eastern european guy who was banned on here for illegal trading via PM? I dunno, but something's up, and it's no my problem so...
     
    #768 Stavros, Jul 1, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2014
  9. Scott1989

    Scott1989 Member

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    Whats peoples opinions on what might be the best turbo for my new sr20 build
    Pros/cons/characteristics etc.

    I currently have a GT3082R .70 A/R

    But thinking about either a HY35 10cm housing or HX35 12cm housing.

    Not sure if the GT3082R is going to be too laggy or not.

    Aiming for 500-550bhp ~8500rpm rev limit.

    Engine spec is;
    S14a block honed out for oversized pistons,
    86.5mm CP 9:1 forged pistons,
    Eagle forged rods,
    ACL standard size race main bearings,
    ACL standard size race big end,
    Standard size crank with polished faces,
    ARP head studs,
    ARP bottom end studs,
    New genuine Nissan oil pump,
    New genuine Nissan oil strainer,
    New genuine Nissan chain tensioner,
    New genuine Nissan belts,
    New genuine Nissan flywheel bolts,
    New genuine Nissan Water Pump,
    Complete new Nissan engine gasket kit,
    All Threads chased etc,
    All tolerances checked with bore scope,
    New Nissan thrust washers,
    Full cross hone,
    A'pexi 1.1mm metal head gasket,
    ACT Heavy duty paddle clutch,
    ACT Ultralite flywheel,
    Apex alloy crank pulley,
    Skimmed head face,
    3 angle valves and seats,
    Supertech Inconel, back cut, swirl polished valves (intake and exh),
    JW Phosphor bronze valve guides,
    All new nissan seals, all threads chased etc,
    New Genuine Nissan rocker arms,
    Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers,
    Tomei Solid lifter conversion,
    Tomei 264deg procams,
    HKS Inlet and Exhaust Vernier Cam Pulleys,
    Brian Crower Titanium Retainers and Springs,
    Polished Exhaust Ports,
    Smoothed valve lips (In and Ex),
    Smoothed (not polished) intake ports,
    Mirror polished combustion chamber (matched cc),
    GReddy short port intake plenum,
    GReddy top feed fuel rail,
    Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors,
    primera gt 60mm throttle body,
    Genuine Sard fuel pressure regulator,
    Full Race top mount exhaust manifold,
    3' exhaust
    Tial 44mm v-band external wastegate with screamer pipe,
    Stainless intake pipe w/Apexi stainless air filter,
    Parts Shop MAX USA Mid Mount Intercooler,
    Apex 56mm Aluminium Radiator,
    Twin electric fan setup with thermostat
    Tomei Larger capacity gated oil pan,
    Tomei N2 oil Block
    Touge Factory Anciliary pulleys
    Stance Oversized Water pump pulley
    Ultra turbo timer,
    HKS EVC 5 boost controler,
    HKS 800 fuel pump,
     
    #769 Scott1989, Jul 6, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2014
  10. ruby1j

    ruby1j Member

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    hx35 with 12cm housing might be a little lazyon an sr20. i would do the hy35 with the 10cm housing or the gt30 i suppose
     
  11. Stavros

    Stavros Active Member

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    I agree with the above.
    If the option of a HY is there, I'd only go HX on a 2ltr if I had a proper twinscroll setup, as the Evo lot etc has proved a proper twinscroll setup with the HX spools as fast if not faster than a single scroll HY.

    Main thing to consider, which is doing my head in lately, if there's a lot more to making a turbo spool well than just bolting it on.

    There's people using the same turbo and the same engine and ending up with 50bhp+ difference in power and 1000rpm difference in spool just because one person has just slapped a load of bits together and expected it to work, the other actually understands tuning and has port matched things properly, made sure the flow to and from everything is smooth and unrestrictive, and so on.
     
  12. Scott1989

    Scott1989 Member

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    Cheers guys, bought one of the HY35's that you'd were talking about on the previous page, my intake and exhaust manifolds have been port matched to the head, will do the same with the manifold to turbo
     
  13. dale_b

    dale_b #DriftFactory

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    Let's talk about Variable Geometry Turbos... Holset's Variable Geometry Turbos.

    Any reason why we couldn't use these turbos on petrol engines?

    Iv done a small amount of reading on compound turbos but lost interest due to too much to go wrong, and too complex and busy for a drift car engine bay.

    Im looking for a reliable solution to reduce lag and optimise power band. These VGT's must be worth a go..
    These eliminate Wastegates aswell, don't know if this is a good thing or not just yet. Good for space, and good for using as much of the exhaust gas energy as poss.
    Should be reasonably simple to map the turbo with a decent ecu, in a similar fashion to a boost controller.

    What you recon?
     
  14. mihaicsv

    mihaicsv Member

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    Hi everyone,I bought a HX35W on eBay and trying to find out what kind of housing it has.There is nothing written inside the flange.Is there any other way to find out the size?I can post pics if it helps...cheers
     
  15. Stavros

    Stavros Active Member

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    Post a pic of the back of the turbine housing, the numbers on the back will be enough to tell you I think, not all of em seem to have numbers inside, but all do on the back.

    Maybe even the pic alone will be enough to say.
     
  16. Slevin

    Slevin New Member

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    Hi all,


    It might not be the best thread for this but i am after a HX35(or HX40) with 12 or 14cm3 non wastegated turbine housing for my 2.8 inline 6 engine.Hope you guys can help.

    cheers
     
  17. CRISPY D

    CRISPY D Member

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  18. Slevin

    Slevin New Member

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    Thanks for the input,but sorry,I`d need one with the anti surge compressor housing.
     
  19. jonny mac

    jonny mac 1jzS14

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    I have an hx35 12cm holset with a tiny v band fitment exhaust housing on the back

    going onto a 1jz gte non vvt with stock cams

    I was just chatting to a mate and he's suggesting cutting it off and boring out the rear housing and welding on a 3" v band?

    would it really see better gains?
     
  20. Stavros

    Stavros Active Member

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    I like that idea. The bigger the pipe as soon after the turbine wheel, the better.

    Martin Wonnacott's 1JZ hit full boost about 500rpm sooner after that, my RB20 spooled remarkably quick for a 600bhp turbo, and I had a 4.25in pipe directly after the turbine wheel, then a 4in downpipe and midsection, and a 3.5in rear pipe.
     

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