Why not build and map a rotary yourself.. could become one of the first uk's decent rotary specialists..
love this man... Forgive me if its been answered, ive skim read the last few pages, what make/spec are the yellow 5 spoke deep dished wheels ?
it sounds like theres a very good chance that the rpm interference is coming from poorly earths and poorly shielded crank sensor, if the loom is all that bad. Is there no sensor filtering feature on Omex ECUs? It's caused us rpm issues in the last on Megasquirt ECUs and as soon as you apply a filter in the software, the problem disappears. That's WITH good looms, though. Hope you get it sorted soon regardless, it looks pretty awesome.
It's possible. The wire is deffo shielded, BUT the question is is the shield properly grounded at the ECU end like it should be. Without taking the wire apart (which means starting it again), there no visual way to check. There's various ways to adjust sensitivity and so on in the ECU, but adjusting it didn't help. Toyota crank sensors are a known problem as being shite, so it may not be a wiring issue as such. I have a Honeywell GT101 hall sensor to replace it, which I was told was a direct replacment. But it isn't. It will fit, but it's too short, will be way too far from the trigger wheel to work, so will only be any good if I just fuck it all and fit a 36-1 on the front of the crank wheel, which I might just do. Fed right up with it tbf, has totally raped my cash.
Is the existing sensor a hall or a VR? I thought you needed VR for accuracy on multi toothed trigger wheels? Anyway a VR sensor should be twisted pair wiring with a foil shield around the outside connected to earth. The shield should connect to earth at the ecu connector. Ah well whatever the problem is, its wank, good luck sorting it cos i know how much of an arsehole it can be
VR as standard, but they're shit from Toyota, and changing to a better one is a known solution. Yes, that's how it is, but it's impossible without wrecking the wire to tell if the shield is earthed correctly at the ECU end. It's pretty gay.
My race car developed a high rpm conistant misfire and wouldn't rev past 7k, I changed the sensor twice and trigger wheel before finding a de soldered connection on the main ECU power feed I might be worth checking
Haha, though so far my experience with Omex shows that's highly likely to be the case, my experience with Omex so far will also suggest that they will deny there's a problem that's anything to do with them until they're blue in the face, so I hope that isn't the problem! That does sound like mine though, almost the same rpm too! (looking at the log, it revved to 8250 at one point, but it happened for such a short period of time I never noticed it from the drivers seat lol)
cant you just do a continuity test and a resistance test on the earth braid wire to see if its shit. or am i missing something.
could you split the insulation off just before the connector and give it an individual earth? that last inch or two of unshielded wire inside the connector won't matter, EMF needs a length of wire to act on before it builds up. You're not painting a nice picture of Omex, lol, im starting to get worried cos i'm about to buy a semi assembled loom kit and wire a 600 into my mates car. hmm....
Not updated this in ages. Here it is on the rollers... Got 36-1 trigger wheel and Cossie crank sensor- Couldn't be fucked running around in circles trying to fix the problem with the current setup which was caused by Omex recommending we use the current setup, despite us not thinking it was wise... Got new side skirt and rear bumper all sorted, fits as nice if not better than the originals. Removed rear silencers when doing new rear bumper- Car is no louder, in fact it sounds better- As I knew, the rear silencers were fucking dogshit. While the cars not been mapped past 6750 yet, quite a few things are clear... It's fast, but it's nowhere near fast enough for me, and nothing that happens beyond 6750 will change that, as it's the fact fuck all worth shouting about happens till at least 5k anyhow- I don't like big cam n/a powerbands- Never have. Yes, V8s with big cams and ITBs sound mental, it does, but tbf, I fucking hate the noise. Exhaust is too loud, and I don't like N/A noise full stop really, never have. And V8s only sound mental when zipping through the gears fast, held RPM, which is a given in drifting and normal driving, sounds shite to me on a normally aspirated V8. You can get away with the noise if it's not that loud, but it's hard to make a big power n/a V8 anything but spastic loud, and I don't like it. (On that note- Anyone watched the various preview/teaser vids of Ken Blocks new Mustang? A great example there- Sounds awesome going through the gears, BUT when he's at a fairly held RPM, a given in drifting, it sounds fucking wank to me, hate it, ruins the car). I convinced myself N/A would be the sensible idea, even though it goes against everything I like, and everyone who knows me said it was a mistake. They were right. I've grown to not actually like the car, and mostly as it's N/A. So the solution is this thing on the right. The one on the left is ~GT28RS size and good for 350bhp. The one I'm using, a little more. Obv going to make the turbo like new before it's fitted (TBH, it's almost new, has been ran for about 30min), but it's all being built up first. We've done a mock up so we know where it's all going, and now Thomas has to build it. What we're doing is pretty interesting/different, so will have fun no doubt as the internet experts with zero experience will be crying and saying its all wrong and stupid, but no change there. But it will be much quieter, much faster, much bigger powerband, and no more N/A V8 aids noises. Should have room for two silencers, and the one is fucking mahoosive... ITBs are going too, single throttle, so a lot simpler there too. And a couple of random pics from this afternoon with the kit off before it made it's merry way to Zurawski Motorsport to get some much needed boost...
Well, I didn't expect to update this so soon considering the car only left here about 2pm, but as Thomas is so keen, err, here's a ridiculous amount of progress already... Probably worth liking this page on Facebook to keep up to date, and see all the other mad shit he builds... https://www.facebook.com/ZurawskiMotorsport1
turbo was the only way to go. what boost are you gonna put into what is a fairly high comp engine? the builder has a lot of work done in 4 hours! instead of that box, I would silence it by pointing the pipe coming from the exhaust housing directly at the ground, as in 1 inch off it with a small flexi near the end. great work...
It was, I was kidding myself that N/A was a better idea, but it's not me, never has, never will be. Well with the cams and the turbo size, it won't need much boost to be retardedly undrivable, as its more about flow than pressure. But while the static compression is high, dynamic compression is pretty fucking low due to the long duration cams with lots of overlap, so it could take a fair bit of boost, but I don't think it'd need it. I reckon it'd get undrivable before we hit a boost limit lol. And yeah, he don't hang around! Ref exhaust- I want it to be as quiet as poss to get past as many noise regs as I can, so needs to be silenced- It's 4in turbo back, 4in straight thru huge silencer, and hopefully enough room for a small 4in straight thru bullet silencer as the tailpipe. Possibly exiting towards the ground too, at least 45deg. The silencer is actually stupidly light, far lighter than your average front mount intercooler in fact, proper bit of kit.
Love the way the cuts on pipes are angled so the welding looks ridiculously nice. What turbo is that? It's class looking!haha
