The knuckle adapters can be certed, woop woop The certifier said he will want to take one of them off to inspect it closer, but assuming it is a well fitting quality piece, they are perfectly fine for the street. Booked in for Monday morning Unfortunately I can only run half a degree more than the "manufacturers maximum specifications" in terms of negative camber up front, so I may fork out for two wheel alignments - one to give to the cert guy, and one after the cert process to bump the camber up to a reasonable, yet drift-friendly amount. Not sure yet, we'll see. The seats can be certed, of course, but unfortunately the harnesses have to be put on my motorsport log book with the cage, so I am hoping the next track day I attend will have an inspector that can update the book for me. We'll see about that too
Who's doing your cert? The mighty Hoff? There are heaps of places in chch that have done rack relocations. I've got Tomlin knuckles and relocated rack, highly recommend them. -surfab -Tomlin -B-spec engineering As for track days there is drift test sessions once a month usually on a wednesday 9am-noon. There is also open practice the Tuesday before drift south where anyone can rock up. Street meat days are usually held 2-3 times a year. Really popular. Think Jonny's got one lined up soon. though. You won't find the FB group, its hidden to keep the f*ckwits away. You need to have been to a driftschool or similar. Keep up the thread, good to see another chch person on here, hopefully catch you at a driftsouth round in the future. My flatmate and I do the development series.
Awesome, a rack relocation will be on the cards asap then. I have heard way too many bad stories involving Hoff to want to try him, so have booked in to see Ian Smith instead. He is only rated to cert up to 1A and 1B standards, so I don't think he could cert a rack relocation, but everything else bar that should be within his capabilities. After 5 minutes on the phone to the Hoff, and 5 minutes talking to Ian, Ian seems a hell of a lot more layed back and interested in doing business. Hoff had no idea what I was on about when asking him if the roll center adjusters were certifiable, even seeming to get flustered and bothered at having to listen to me explain what it was I was inquiring about, where as Ian immediately knew what I meant, and said that so long as they are quality made, he can cert them no problem at all. Chur for listing all those events, I'll look into each of them and fill my calender. After meeting the right people, I'm sure I'll open a few doors for myself, Street Meat included. What do you and your flatmate drive?
Yeah I've had a cert through the hoff and will never go there again, way too fussy (and my car is immaculate). Unless you have an old school hotrod/ some gay v8 or have an extremely tidy car he doesn't want to know you. I drive this shit heap My flatmate captains this land boat
Our other team members are Anna (R32) and Neil (R34) Shameless plug. We just stated a FB page, give it a like lol. https://www.facebook.com/driftgenr
Funny story about Don Hoff; apparently he failed an oldschool hotrod on the welds on the chassis, even though Don was actually the one who built the chassis a few years earlier haha... apparently he is a fabricator by trade so that's embarrasing if true And I just took my hori vl turbo through cert with "The Hoff" and funnily enough only failed me on small things even when it is full of rust and the brakes hardly work.
Quick update while I'm taking a break from getting greasy. Lock stops gone, will make some new ones to suit soonish. 255mm Z32 inner tie rods to counteract the toe in brought on by the offset rack spacers. Got two for £28/$56, added bonus of being a bit beefier too. Needed a new tie rod end, so replaced both for £18/$36. This nut will need some tweaking so I can get a split pin in. Blue locktite for insurance. Almost made the mistake of using red, hah And the end result, keeping in mind it needs a serious from-scratch wheel alignment, and has no lock stops, which will bring it back around a little. The massive 235/45 tires on my 17's make them pretty much a no go, but have been considering rocking 16's anyway. We'll see. For now, only the 16's have decent tires anywhoo This is the rear of the tire to the chassis rail. And unfortunately I need new guards at the front. I'll see if my cert man is happy for me to bash them with a hammer to begin with, till I can sort out a 44 gallon drum from somewhere, lol Time to slap the other side on and see if I can get the toe straight enough to drive it down to get an alignment. Wish me luck
Looking good my man, Wish mine had S14 front setup ha ha. I've was actually going to design some of those knuckle adapters as seems like to most obvious solution to me, Nice to see someone doing it, saves me time ha ha. How much are they dude??
Chur for complements Uuuuh... yours should have an S14 front setup man, unless you've changed it to something different? C34 and C35 front ends are the same MacPherson strut setup as S14's and S15's. My adapters cost £125 before shipping The knuckles have had a lot more R&D than it may look like. A closer look shows that designing a CNC program for them without scanning them would be a damn hard job I reckon, they have a lot of subtle angles and such that make the things more intricate and precise than I thought they would be.
Nah man ,unfortunately mine was 4wd, same set up as a GTR and 4wd Stagea with spastic 4wd front subframe and twin wishbone, building a custom subframe so I can get some lock and slam it, but will have to stick with skyline front setup, until I can be arsed to graft on some S14 front towers, but that's a while down to line yet. Yeah I don't have time for CAD ha ha, I'm just glad someone else did it. Think I'll get some of those, good find squire, keep the build thread going it's goingto be awesome by the looks of it.
Oh wow, I had no idea at all these came four wheel drive... Makes me wonder if they were sold in NZ at all. A GTR spec build with one would make a mean sleeper street car After slamming the car in preparation for its re-cert, it looked a whole lot more cool, but also damn near ripped my intercooler off exiting and entering the driveway I started my fab course a couple of days ago, and leading up to it I realized that I didn't really have the money spare to make it happen any more, as I am now a student, so decided to attempt to get the car a WOF as it was. I reset the height of it, slapped the front end back on and gave it a go. Because it had been over 28 days since it's last attempt, the list of requirements had dropped off of the system, and these different blokes went over it from scratch. They were quite nice guys, one of them being an ex rally car driver, and warmed up to me after they realized I wasn't another dickhead in a Nissan. The new to-do list went like this: Rear licence plate light to work Horn to work All front lights to be wired up (hadn't got around to it, lol) Windscreen squirters to be re-installed Lock diff replaced Rear brakes balanced (disassembly, cleaning and greasing of the shafts should sort it fine) Both left wheels have excessive play I was absolutely stoked with the list, as they said the 'chassis damage' was within their limits, although told me not to let it get any worse before coming back again By the time I need another WOF I should be good enough with metal to be able to straighten the bottom out just fine anyway. They also saw no reason to send me off for a £250+ re-cert for the seats that were obviously probably in the car at the time of its initial cert 6 years ago too. Both left wheels were wiggling a little because of scary, yet easy to fix reasons. I had completely forgot to tighten the inner left LCA bolt on the front after grinding the lock stop off, so we tightened that on the spot. Not so scary was the rear inner toe arm bolt, which was tight, yet not tight enough. Instead of just tightening it, I took 5 minutes to pull it out, and installed one of the four eccentric lockout bolts I bought months back, and now there is only a tiny bit of play from an old wheel bearing. I'll replace it as soon as I can afford to. A mate gave me his open R180 diff to put in temporarily, the only problem being that his is an older type from an S13, having solid mounts, with four bolts on the rear instead of two pineapples. I bought factory sized bolts for the front two, M12x1.0 at 75mm, instead of my 90mm ones. I also discovered that the welds on my diff definitely leave a lot to be desired. There are 8 welds instead of a big whole mess of overkill like most people do, showing some cracks here and there. I'll reuse it for now, but I hope I'll manage to find a decent LSD before long. Cleaned off the ridiculous amounts of slag that the diff bung managed to pick up. Turns out factory sized S13 front diff bolts are too long to use in my circumstance, but luckily I had some massive M12 washers to use from my uninstalled eccentric lockout kit bolts, which I am happy with seeing as the old diff will be put back in within 24 hours anyway I managed to find the old squirter bottle with its water pump, and installed it, only needing to identify the wire that will bring it it's 12v supply. If I have trouble doing that, I'll just do a temp job hooking it up with a missile switch. Tonight I will finally finish rewiring the entire front end too, which should have been done months back when I de-loomed the engine bay, but got lazy. After all that, if they are happy with the rear brakes, I should be on the road tomorrow and daily-ing this thing to Polytech Next up is fixing a leaky intake manifold. Coolant is staying in the motor when cold, but when the motor heats up and the coolant wants to expand, it begins quite a steady drip. I'm hoping a simple replacement gasket will fix it. I jacked the front of the car sky high to see if and air had gathered inside the head (RB's are notorious for this, for whoever doesn't know), but it appears that the overflow bottle has been doing its job with letting the motor suck coolant back into the radiator when the motor cools down, as the radiator was still full and no bubbles appeared whatsoever. Oh! And I think I'll finally get around to trying to get the temperature sensor to go too... Probably should have been the very first thing I did to the car Wish me luck
Hah yeah, it's starting to get a little cold at night though! Need to find something warm to share the bed with... I'm considering buying a big rusty, engine-less van to shove into the corner of the garage to put my bed into, instead of throwing up a couple of budget walls.
Life got you down? Haven't smiled in a while? Maybe I can help a little Lost an indicator in the hills many months ago, so wired my corner lights in as temporary indicators. Problem was they were white, and now I can't be arsed paying for replacement, so to get my WOF, I cracked out some Tamiya model paint, designed to tint tiny wee indicator lenses on model cars! Orange for days! FYI, my corner lights had twin filament bulbs which aren't sold in orange anywhere I've looked
Haha love the use of Tamiya paint, reminds me of my remote controlled and static model building days... before all this drift car sh!t began! Good luck with the WOF mate!
