Weekly Update Time Boot release and fuel door cable - absolute pain to replace Replacing the cable involved removing the front seat, the step trim, the pilar trim, the rear seat base (most difficult seat to remove ever), rear seat top and entire boot trim. I don't have pictures of this as after struggling with the rear seat for 45 mintues, I really wasn't in the mood. But it's done now and thats something else ticked off the list. With the fuel tank out and the fuel pump carrier disassembled, I treated it to a coat of Deox-C gel and a good scrubbing with a soft wire brush and it came out pretty good. {} {} Before treating the tank itself I drained as much fuel out of it as I could; as you can tell it was definately past its best. {} After the first round of tank cleaning, a lot of the rust on the bottom was ready to come off. {} {} The solution was clear when it went into the tank, it came out very much not clear. {} I also started painting the brake calipers for the 5 stud swap, pretty much have two done, although the may need touching up in a few places and im yet to sand the Nissan logo back to silver. {} {} I have also been prepping the underside of the boot area where the fuel tank was whilst it is out. After a few sheets of sandpaper, some wire wheeling and a wire brush I laid down a coat of zinc primer. {} {} After this had dried I threw down some black stonechip paint for a top coat before I use Schutz underbody seal. {} {}
This turned up this weekend too, hopefully next weekend I can crack on and get the underbody seal on and finish this section off. {} I have some fuel hose on order to replace the hose going from the top of the pump carrier to the fuel lines, which should be going on next weekend too. After having technical difficulties last week with the Schutz gun I finally got another one this weekend. Sorry about the quality of the pics, I ran out of daylight. Finished painting the fuel tank with zinc primer, stone chip and then schutz. {} {} Finished cleaning the insde of the tank last week, it should be going back into the car next weekend. Also replaced all of the fuel hose at the back {} A shot of the freshly undersealed rear {} If anyone is planning on doing something like this, this is how much paint I went through for the fuel tank and underside up to the rear subframe. {}
Loving this find so Jelous! The potential is large . please do her justice or sell to me alternativly lol. Bestof luck
I am Just in the process of cleaning my tank too on my S13 after sitting 12 years with fuel in. How did you think the stuff you used worked? I've been recommended the POR15 stuff for mine. You seem to be doing everything right so far bud!!
The Deox-C worked pretty well I thought. I got two 1kg tubs of it, I used 9 litres of hot water with 1kg of Deox-C; the hot water speeds up the reaction time between the solution and the rust, effectively removing it faster but it will work at lower temperatures too. Essentially I ended up with 18L of hot water and 2kg of Deox-C. Then all you have to do is leave it and turn the tank onto different ends every 24 hours or so, I left it in the garage where it was pretty cold but it still seemed to work. I'll try and get some pics up this evening of what it looks like inside now.
Not been a lot of progress recently as I have been away with work and it being valentines last weekend. But small update time: Picked up a few new filters and bits and pieces for this weekend coming {} I ended up replacing the air and fuel filter today along with a fair amount of fuel hose {} {} I also hooked up a battery today and to my suprise everything came to life {} Indicators, sidelights, headlights, full beam, fog lights, reverse lights, brake lights. All bulbs working and all lights functioning. Even the folding wing mirrors and electric windows work. Impressive considering the amount of time it has been sat. Hopefully by this weekend coming the following should have arrived: Magnetic sump plug Engine oil flush 10L of oil for flushing through the engine 5L of decent oil Spark plugs Fuel pump The aim is to get it running this weekend, fingers crossed!
Good news, bad news and help needed So the fuel pump and the fuel tank are back in ish {} {} The metal strap on the left now appears to be too short to fit around the tank properly? So I have bodged it for now any input would be appreciated. New battery sorterd and temporary battery tray in until I get it welded up {} Spark plugs removed and engine turned over by hand {} Timing belt seems to look new? {} Oil wasn't black either, so it must have been changed before it left Japan which is good news. Everything put back together, unfortunately it won't start. The fuel pump primes, I can hear it and the engine turns over but wont start. I'm thinking plugs, coilpacks or injectors. Check the video below and let me know if you know whats causing it to not start {} Any help would be great
My mate had same problem with his s13 when he did cam belt.I don't know if its the same on an Rb but in the end of the cas & exhaust can there is a locater so it can only be fitted in one position.He had snapped the lug off on the cam so the cas could locate in any position.We eventually got it in the right position & the car fired & has ran ever since.
I don't know if you plugged it in for your start up or not, but the cas is what tells the car to spark. Plug it in and spin it by hand to check if your coilpacks are sparking. If they aren't you have an issue somewhere, if they are slide it back onto the exhaust cam, use the gasket if you bolt it in place as it needs that space otherwise you might snap the key off, and try again. It should have a half moon and only line up one way. Also for sake of easy, those middle bolts come up and the coilpacks come out with the brackets. 6 or 7 bolts instead of 24
Update time: Finally I have a spark. After testing all of the coilpacks and finding them to be within the acceptable range, messing about with the CAS, checking plugs and running ECU diagnostics, it appeared to be a grounding issue which is now resolved. Unfortunately it still would not start. I picked up some easy start and after spraying this through the throttle body it would start for about a second and then die; if you keep spraying as its trying to start it works and runs until it uses all the easy start. Problem number two: No fuel Seeing as it would start with a little help but then die, I assumed it was a fueling issue and pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and its attempted starting sounded the same. I popped off the fuel lines just before the fuel rail, put the ends in a bottle and primed the fuel pump which spat fuel out the lines; so the fuel pump is definitely working. Leaving only the fuel rail and injectors. Seeing as they haven't been opened for 10 years I assume they're either seized or clogged so this weekend I finally managed to get some time and I pulled them out which was a pig of a job, et volia: {} {} It seems to use the same injectors as the RB20DET, correct me if I am wrong anyone. I will be dropping these off this week to get them cleaned and flow tested and fingers crossed this will fix the issue. I also managed to pick up a switch for a rear foglight yesterday morning after two hours in a breakers yard with an esteemed colleague from work; I actually ended up with five, but you can never have too many switches. {} My job for today was to put the passenger seat back in as I had found the carpet damp and removed the seat to dry it out, as I had dried I assumed it would have stayed dry, unfortunately not, it was wet again. So rather than putting the interior back in, it ended up coming out to find the source of the water. {} Other than the water there was no nasty rusty surprises which was pleasant. The leak seems to be coming from this area: {} I assume the heat exchanger is near here somewhere and may be leaking? It's going to be a pain to get to but I would rather get this problem sorted now rather than later. I should be placing an order this week for a water pump, timing belt, drive belts, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and coolant. By the time I actually get all of that changed over I should have the injectors back.
that leak could be coming through from the scuttle panel in the passenger corner of the windscreen. A friend had an R32 with a leak there that eventually fried the ECU. used to make the passenger floor a bit wet.
Yeah, that's a good shout actually, the only confusing thing is that it's wet on the passenger side but on the drivers side as well, the corner near the ecu is wet but also where the footrest is on the drivers side is wet too?
Sounds like windscreen seal has perished and is leaking (common for cars that have sat for a while). Easiest way is to get inside and stick your head under the dash and get a mate to hose the windscreeen and see if any more come in. It also could be the source of your "no fuel" issue if the ECU has gotten water into it. Will be worth unplugging and opening up to check for condensation and/or fried tracks.
