Could anyone explain why i'm getting bad camber wear when only running half a degree negative rear camber? Car is an S13 with an S13 subframe and quite low (17" lip 5mm away from metal guard). I only have about an inch travel but I've been told it could be due to the toe changing on compression but i dont know if it toes in or out and the interwebs havent been helpful. Static toe is set at neutral so which way to go?
Nice thread, with this, i have an idea, but my alignment is so different and the car is so smooth to drive and "easy" to drift. On the front i have: Camber -2'20" Castor 7' Toe 0' Rear: Camber -0'30" Toe 0' I have poor grip at the rear, go sideways when you push the pedal, hahaha. What think about my alignment? Greetings!
Been using street/drift setup for nearly 12 months now on s14a. Love it!! Have just widened the rear of the car 30mm on each side. (Overfenders + hubcentric spacers) will I now need to modify the setup to keep it working well? Cheers for any help guys!
Hi mitto and anyone willing to give accurate advice I have a s14a 1jzgte engine single turbo @450bhp, 6 point fabricage(just to give an idea of weight,I have steering rack moved 20mm forwards,geomaster front hubs, 25mm hub centric spacers, 18"et30 9.5j, hsd Coilovers wiith 12/8kg springs, no front Arb & Godspeed rear, all alignment arms, 20mm longer lca, extended steering arms! I am going for wheel alignement tomorrow and I understand that weight changes the suspension behaviour massively, so I'm hoping you can help! Front Minimum or -4'20" camber 7'20" castor 20" toe out Rear -30" camber 10" toe in Does this sound about right ?
Hello everyone asking questions about specific set-ups! I'm still getting a huge number of messages on here and on Facebook with regards to alignment. The reason for this thread is to try to help everyone, but I cannot give specific settings on an individual basis. Drift settings are complex and diverse, so if you want me to act as a consultant for you, then please drop me a PM and we can work the cost from there. Thanks, Mitto
Quick question about this just trying to figure it out! What do u mean by minutes?? Is it set to so many degrees and then turn adjuster (for example) 30 minutes ie half a turn? Or am I completly wrong?? Please explain! Cheers Rich
Bit of a thread revival I know, but I inted on using my car on the street only (so ideally I'm going for a 'fast road' setup) would I be better going for the street/drift setup, or the whiteline setup? They're much the same but little changes can have a big effect! Whiteline setup- I'd go for the sport one; The car may eventually see the track but I currently have my mx5 for that!
Clarification Hi, i need some clarification, about the camber, the values have to be negative, yes? im using this setup " MINIMAL STREET / DRIFT USE FRONT camber 2'50" --> - 2º50'' ??? castor 7'30" toe 0'05" OUT REAR camber 1'10" --> - 1º10'' ??? toe 0'10" IN RESULT Stable but reactive steering Strong rear end grip, will push you forwards Stable, but needs accurate driver imput "
Which settings is he running? I want it very twitchy so that it wants to go out / flick past centre all the time, at the moment I'm having to drive fast, I much preferred my settings i had before which were more twitchy but was only ever done by eye before.. Hah!
The street/drift settings iirc, he did mention a little front toe out helped with the twitchy Ness.. although obviously it's up to you if you fancy playing around with it..
Yeah, I need to get it booked in for alignment just want to try get it right before hand so I don't go back again! Think I need more toe out!
Sorry if i am off-topic, but i couldn't figure it out. What's wrong and why do i have such a positive camber on full-lock? What should i modify? I have steering rack spacers for angle and for alignment: -3 camber, 0 toe, 7 caster I lose control on full lock. Thank you
