I don't have the time or equipment to fix this, and do not have time to completely break it. A weekend or two spent on this in the correct hands. And you will have a lovely s14a for a dirt cheap price. The car was used daily, until I knocked a hole in the wheel arch. Has had no test from 1 august. £3200. Can be cheaper by removing parts. EG bring your own wheels and brakes and It'll drop to £2500. Bad points: -****off big hole in the wheel arch, will require engine out and them tubbed or remade. -5cm size hole in the one of the sills, -Rear calipers leaking -strut tops starting to rust -Engine is currently half out and has no fluids. (if someone came to pick it up as a whole bring some fluids and we can get it going in 30 minutes, the car ran well and strong. -Manifold stud snapped, easy to take out when the engine is out. -VVT rattle Spec list and parts: Full Apex exhaust with decat Greddy Frontmount with hardpipes, which needs new mounting points. Huge Cone filter. Walbro 255 fuel pump. Greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller. Greddy turbo timer. HDev Manifold. Hdev Stage 1 map. Tomei Expreme elbow 356mm 8 pots on the front with braided lines. Vertical hydraulic handbrake. Apex Half Cage. ACT Heavy duty Clutch Kazz 2 way diff Apex coilovers Vented Fibreglass bonnet with catches. Vented 25mm wider front fenders. Pillar boost gauge Cheap eBay steering wheel Neochrome nuts (not shitty chinese ones) Longer studs on the front XXR 527's Rusty Strut Tops: Passenger Side Sill: Subframe mounting points, a rust treatment, wool and under seal will be enough here. Middle to rear of the sill, not bad at all. Front of the sill, has a hole. and damage from incorrect jacking. Will need to be patched. Drivers side sill: Subframe mounting point, same as other side. not bad at all. rear 2/3 of sill, Not too bad at all. Need some treating and underseal. Chassis rail: Wheel arch hole:
