Im guessing thats the only real option to solve this? (other than a different front sus setup) Seen a fuckload of low civics with ruined inner arches from the same issue, never really considered just shortening it!
I've seen a bagged is200 where he cut a hole in the turret for the balljoint to poke through when it was aired out, but surely cutting the turret means you're removing strength out of a major structural part of the car? Personally I think cutting down the uprights is much more sensible, as it puts the upper wishbone down to a more normal angle as well...
Ye that's just an utter pikey fix and doesn't help sorting the geo' out. I added a 25mm RCA and dropped the spindle height by the same amount but offset to increase negative camber.
Right then, some may of seen I've put this up for sale. Various reasons, time, proper place for it to live, want a fast grown up road car..blah blah. I don't expect many people will be interested in paying decent money for it, regardless of how good it may be....so with that in mind I'm just going to carry on with it until some one takes it away. pics' from the other week with new hoops, 18x9.5 +3 & 19x10 +11 My Minerva's weren't fitting after making them 19x10 +/0 so I swapped them into some other barrels making them 19x10.5 +18. This is perfect because when fitted with a 245.35 fits almost exactly the same as my other 19x10 +11's. That's enough wheel games now, time for the 2 way to go in. I had bought a 2 way out of the casing and I'm sure it's been sat for some time. Thought it best to pull it apart to inspect and soak the plates in oil seeing as it's dry. Should be back in tomrrow
looks bad ass! i had the uprights chopped on my gs300, guessing its a similar setup. Made so much difference! no more banging off the top. Also fitted RCAs and the end result is you can go as low as you want and end up with pretty much factory setting for the arms in terms of straightness so drives great and eliminates bumpsteer. Go for it!
Dont mix them plates up as they are bedded into one another. Heard your selling? (edit: just seen the sale thread )
Thanks man! Ye very similar. Mines been great since I done it, drives perfect now and no fucking nasty clunks! They were all stacked in order. This one (Tomei) isn't too bad as they just alternate the pattern, the Cusco RS I took apart were all different. I believe you can change how aggressive it is by changing how they're stacked in the latter Cusco form. Well, it's up for sale at a price I'd let it go for but, as ever this scene has a lot of people who want some thing for nothing...so I doubt it'll sell which is why I'm just cracking on with it. I'm certainly not giving it away. I kinda forgot to order more Redline diff oil so couldn't re-fit today...dick 'ed.
Isn't this the damn truth... And then they scream something about "drift tax"... Nice to see that you're still toying away with it.
Diff is now back in and doing its thing! The Tomei is super smooth with the Redline in it, no nasty clunks and locks up a dream. Been out giving it a good shakedown today as I had the day off, car feels good! I need to get my swift springs on just to stiffen it up a bit but other than that I'm really happy with it. I've never really had such a good suspension set-up on any of my cars and it makes a world of difference when the back ends out. There's no bangs, rattles or scrapes, even on lock... only the odd exhaust or BN to ground issue. Selling up really is at the back of my mind at the moment haha. MOT this week!
Hey dude, any updates on this? How did the MOT go? Also I have a quick question about the cut hub uprights... I just fitted mine which have been chopped 30mm, but now even with my cusco UCAs set at full camber they're at about -0.5 deg maximum, so I'm thinking I need to offset the top piece out as you did. I'm guessing you cut off the top bit where the balljoint bolts in and then extended that out, and then added a triangle bit of bracing, right? Any idea how far out you extended the top bit? Cheers!
MOT was a breeze, not a single advisory which was nice. Car is now taxed and on the road! Driven about 30-40 miles in it today for a little tester, most driving it's done since I've had it! Good news is it feels good and drives pretty civilized out on the road. You can see on the previous page what mine look like dude, cut, dropped, welded on the front of the spindle and then braced underneath. You have to offset like that or it'll push the camber back positive. Even now like this and my Ikeya arms pretty much maxed I'm only at -4.5 Not much other news really, just been getting it to work right. I did purchase this 'beaut of a plate though: Starting to look at upping the power now though, nothing crazy, I want a nice reliable setup that will let me use the car as much as possible. I'd love to top mount a GTX just for the fun of it but the reality of it just doesn't seem worth it atm. Really a 'high flowed' standard CT15 turbo with all the correct bits with it should see well over 400hp reliably with decent response....I think that'll do for now.
Thanks man. Not sure what's LOL to you but thanks for the input. Anyway.. Fingers crossed we should finally be making a start on the exhaust tomorrow, everything's been sat here for long enough and been fucked about plenty of times now so I pray it gets done now. I've also managed to get hold of a HKS F-con V Pro (3.1) and have the following on order: Sard 850cc injectors Sard 265lph pump & harness kit Sard fuel rail Sard jet pump killer HKS ecu harness Unfortunately there's a 1.5 month lead on most of Sard bits. But that gives me time to get the turbo high flowed and a decent manifold knocked up. Once my exhaust is done and I fit my Swift springs the car should be spot on anyway which is good news. I've decided to risk taking this to the nurburgring at the end of June which will be interesting if nothing else. It was take this and enjoy the ballache of low BN across Europe, passenger in a mates volvo or take our Clio 197..... wasn't much choice really.
So, exhaust fab' began. Only managing to get the back section done so far, I had my welder cut the oval flange off my HPI down pipe and weld on the new v-band conection: The rest of the exhaust will be one piece for clearance reasons so a quick removal option is essential. With this done I thought I'd just throw that on and we'd be able to do the rest..... but I was wrong. My old elbow didn't want to come off so easy, so I pulled the lot. It was all going to come off at some stage anyway so seem the easiest option, just holds the exhaust work up until the manifold and turbo work is done. Manifold work will be commencing shortly. Picked up a pair of 18x10.5 +15 TE37's, obviously had to fit on one side to get an idea of what they'd look like: I'm blown away with how good the look, always been a huge fan of bronze TE's. Now I'll have to cough up for some fronts to match when I can!
