So, compact is going to be sold and i want to learn some more about cars after building the compact. So what better way to learn than doing an engine swap no one has done before so far i know the stuff i'll need is: r25/28/30 gearbox from mv6 omega 20mm spacer for slave cylinder custom sump to clear cross member custom engine mounts custom gearbox mounts saab 900 donor car and is200 of course custom propshaft plan is: make close to 300hp using stage 3 remap, FMIC, 3" downpipe into 3" straight pipe back Fit the engine wire it all up and get it running in the is200 with original clocks working (hopefully) things i dont how/what to do: 1.IMMOBILISER- How do i get around this on the is200 and the b204? obviously if the immobiliser isnt disarmed then i wont get fuel and/or spark and the car wont run I can get the immobiliser deleted from the b204 so thats the engine immobiliser problem out of the way. if theres no immobiliser for the b204 can i just wire it up to a on/off ignition switch or do i still need to bypass the is200 immobiliser and run the fuel pump off a switch too? Whats the solution to bypassing the is200 immobiliser? 2. WIRING- i guess all i need is wiring diagrams for the b204 and the is200? i have the wiring diagrams for the is200 and for the b204 thanks to the lovely interwebs I have no clue about wiring so if someone could shine a bit of light on what exactly i need to wire, itd be much appreciated Easy/messy option for wiring i was thinking of just ripping the whole saab interior loom and throwing it into the the is200 and plugging the b204 engine loom into it and then ill have no problems. but as i type this i realise i still need to use the is200 fuel pump and other stuff that i dont know of atm but will know when it comes down to it, so i dont think this method will work im sure im leaving out loads of stuff that i want a bit of light shed on but oh well
Doesn't the is200 have CANBUS which you will need to hack to use the dials? Cool project by the way, I love an Is200.
Wiring from a OG9-3. Big green/red +30 MAIN POWER through main relay to injectors and others. Thin blue is main relay, it connects the relay for the big red mentioned before (negative). Thin white, fuel pump relay (negative). Thin green/red tacho. Thin yellow/green check engine(negative). Thin brown/white sensor ground pin 67. Thin pink/black speedometer. Big yellow is startermotor. Mid size yellow/grey +15 IGNITION. Mid size purple/white +30 ALWAYS CONNECTED (ecu memory I think). Knock LED you can take from ecu pin 8(negative). Wideband signal IN is pin 69. Thin green/black is generator. Thin yellow/grey coolant gauge sensor. Thin yellow/brown coolant gauge sensor (one is connected to the gorund and the other goes to gauge signal). Mid size grey/white lambda sensor heating. There should also be a thin black wire which is connected to pin 66 and 67, some kind of ground. Your wire colors may somewhat differ from mine. Tacho and speedo wires need to be connected (when not using speedo sender) to get full boost. You can turn off the immo in the software (I actually don't think it even matters). Download Trionic Suite, you can get the ECU pin out from there.
That information will save me alot of headaches, thanks a million. yeah i already have t5suite 2 and have been looking at the pin out thats in the pdf with it. cant i just disable to boost limiter in 1st and 2nd gear using t5suite anyway or atleast raise it? also can t5suite disable immo or do i need to send the ecu to a specialist?
not sure but ill look into more. dont really care if i have dials of not, id just prefer to have them instead of a digital tachometer or one of those tacky ebay ones that look like something from a nascar yeah i kind of wanted something jap for my next car and it was either an is200 or gs300 since theyre cheap to get and parts are interchangeable with the jzx90/jzx100 and jzs161 so parts from japland can be sourced easily enough. i plan to deck it on some r33 gtr wheels or some advan avs vs6's as im yet to see an is200/altezza with them
I tried to raise it but it didn't work, it's much easier to just connect the two wires and you can still take the signal to the tachometer from there. To modify your bin file you first need to find it in the bins directory or download yours. Then you need to MAKE A NEW PROJECT and save it. Then open the saved project. Then you need to remove the checkmarks from RAM Locked and VSS (immo). The software is locked at first, thats the RAM. If you don't make a new project then you can't unlock it. If checkmarks are removed, then save project. That should be it, ready to tune. I wish they could make a Launch Control that is switch activated not from inside the laptop or PC.
yeah ill wire the 2 wires together instead as it sounds easier and less fucking about. i plan to get a double din monitor and wire it up to a raspberry pi and run t5suite on that and hide a keyboard and mouse in the glovebox so i can live map it whenever i want and then bench map it when im satisfied. Also i can have launch control all the time this way and monitor the engine so win win heres the link to runing t5 suite on raspberry pi if youre interested trionictuning.com - Login
Just read your build and im going to steal your idea for flipping the original manifold to make it a top mount it will give me more room for engine mounts. Did you make the sump yourself? is there any problems with it like the oil pickup?
Yes I made the sump myself. I shortened the pickup tube and cut both ends at an angle, then welded them together. Then welded two aluminium thingys on the bottom and it's now fixed there with two small bolts. I actually don't like the design at all, it goes straight up and then makes a very sharp turn back down. I'm a bit worried. But we'll see. The 9000 oem manifold is very good, the runners are short and it looks like it flows also very good. Only downside I see is the T25 flange cross section is a bit small, but almost the same as the T3 divided. I think I would ditch the 900 one, doesn't look good at all, sharp sections.
is200 is front sump like your 180 so i will probably copy your method of shortening the pickup i will be binning the 900 manifold and going for a 9000 manifold anyway since with the 900 manifold the turbo with sit too high if i turned it into a top mount
