Right, well since i picked my S15 up from the docks at the start of February, it had a misfire when coming on to boost. it is totally stock apart from a cat-back exhaust. i suspected it may be coilpacks, but to eliminate the cheaper options first, I replaced the spark plugs with new NGK Iridiums and it cured the misfire! i also bought a replacement fuel filter and fitted that too. It then revealed it was very sluggish, and down on power. i cleaned the MAF sensor. no change i spoke to craig on s15oc and he suggest doing the paperclip trick/self diagnosis it showed 3 long flashes and 4 short flashes 34 - Knock Sensor Reset the ECU which reset the code - 55 - no faults. went for a drive, tested again. 34 - Knock Sensor i then went to check the o2 sensor on the turbo elbow the wires were broken. i replaced it with a brand new bosch unit. Reset the ECU- 55 - no faults - went for a drive, tested again. 34 - Knock Sensor So it's a recurring fault. what else could be wrong? Would a Knackered knock sensor cause my lack of power? Or if it isn't knackered, and it's doing it's job, what would trigger the knock sensor?
That's not the knock sensor, that's the lamba/o2 sensor. Look for the cable that disappears down between the head and intake plenum, that is the knock sensor.
Yes the broken wires were on the o2 sensor, which ive replaced. it keeps throwing a code 34 - knock sensor. so i want to know/get opinions on whether the knock sensor is duff, or is it doing it's job, picking up something triggering it. yep, it's in such an awkward position, and the knock sensor itself isnt cheap, so want to eliminate the cheaper options first
I'm not sure how to test knock sensors, I vaguely remember something about checking resistance in the service manual, can't remember. If these are the 2 pin sensors they plug straight in (volvo also use 3 pin). Volvo 850 T5 Knock nock nok Sensors | eBay You could crimp some connectors on wire and connect the easily to access loom plug to a £10 sensor like above, then bolt it to 1 of the many spare holes above the exhaust mani to see if it cures the fault code, if it does, buy a new sensor, if it doesn't, well keep hunting. Cheap easy way to rule a duff sensor out.
just managed to find a replacement knock sensor cheap enough so will change it and see how it goes! looks like a right biznitch to get to mind. fingers crossed it fixes it!
you test the sensor this way: you put a volt measuring device on it's 2 pins, and hit it with something, a screwdrivrer...and it has to generate voltage....if it dose, it's good...if you hit it and the multimeter reads 0 it's brocken. sorry for the speling...just got home a bit drunk
a fucked lamda/lamda issues gives the symptoms your saying give it a spray with some solvet bsed degresser or something... i had a missfire exactly the same.. on this note, in the last couple of months ive seen a good few people with lamda issues, have they changed the fuel this year? like upped the bio content or something?
I m having a similar problem. My s14a keeps showing up a code34 fault knock sensor but my car runs fine. Fuel economy has gone right down though. Has anyone got any tricks for replacing the knock sensor on an sr20det?
I ended up replacing the knock sensor, which was an absoloute C*** to get to, and the fault was still there. Speaking to people, the knock sensor itself rarely fails. So I traced the loom back, it's only a short piece - removed it from the car and i removed the plastic covering and found one of the wires was broken. Bought a replacement S14A loom from SXOC - fitted it - and it cured the problem. Fine for 3 years! I suggest doing that first mate, cheap and easy job and most likely the cause
I got the same crappy problem with mine and I'm almost certain it's a wiring loom issue I need to investigate it pretty soon. If you have code 34 it should be very noticeable, the engine becomes flat as a fart up to about 3k.
