Weird thing to pick up on, but the LEDs freshen the clocks right up Looks like some proper work going in
I may have spent over an hour in work reading this whole thread. Oops! such an interesting build thread to read.
Yeah its the little things that make all the difference, although they've started flickering already I'll have to get some more - - - Updated - - - Sorry for ruining your productivity haha but thanks, means a lot
So this is the colour I'm thinking of using {} Started cutting the holes for the FMIC piping {} {} {} Painted up some bits {} Started ridding the brake servo of rust {} {} If anyone wondered how many nuts and bolts it takes to clear the engine bay, it's a box full {}
Sit Rep: Bay is ready to be painted and new steering rack bushes fitted {} Brake servo is painted: {} Engine and box arrived {} {} I'm a bit irritated, after being messed around by the delivery company the company I bought the engine and box from have supplied an RB20 box rather than the RB25 box that I ordered, so that needs to go back ASAP. "Sweet" JDM screamer pipe {} {} {} Not really much use for anything, all the welds are cracked or not welded all the way around. Some more JDM bodges: Mad boost controller {} Earthing kit: {} Need some new engine mounts, I'll try and get hold of some NISMO ones from Japan {} I now have turbo power though {} Must have been running a vented bonnet in Japan {}
Youre putting a lot of proper work into this, great progress mate! Gonna be nice with the turbo engine running
Stripped the motor down {} {} {} Everything looks in pretty good condition. I have a full gasket kit to rebuild with, and ARP head studs. I had a massive fight with all the exhaust studs which resulted in most of them breaking in the head with hardly any force being applied so I'll need to get those removed and order a whole new set just to be sure. This is everything I managed to get done yesterday afternoon, I'll try and get some more work done today. So I cracked the sump off as there was a dent in the bottom and I wanted to make sure the oil pick up hadn't been damaged. {} {} Thankfully it was fine, but to reseal the sump I had to scrape all the gasket off, took me about two hours really annaly doing it {} Needed forearms of Thor to apply all the sealant in the recommended 5 minutes {} Full gasket and sealant kit {} Replaced the water pump {} {} Scraped all the old headgasket off {} Little bit of temperature difference between intake and exhaust sides of the head for some reason? {} {}
Great thread as ever. Ive just had a nistune ecu and gtr injectros fitted to my 32 rb20det, car made awesome power but before I even collected it the manifold to turbo gasket blew out. I also noticed that the exhaust mani is missng atleast 2 studs, i think there snapped in the head! Toying with the idea of removing the engine myself? Keep up the good work
Cam covers cleaned up, they'll get painted the same time as the engine bay {} Head will be going off to get skimmed shortly and have the snapped exhaust studs drilled out {} Thanks man! Yeah I've got a new gasket to go in mine just to be sure, however I don't think the standard turbo will be going back in These studs are notoriously terrible, when I was taking the exhaust manifold off, both studs on cylinder one just fell out, they had already sheared somehow?!? Taking the engine out wasn't too bad but I had a flat floor and a roof so didn't have to deal with the elements etc. It only took a few hours to take out. If you're wanting to take it out to do the exhaust studs you're probably just better taking the head off, replace the gasket at the same time and get the studs drilled at the same time you skim the head. - - - Updated - - - Thanks
Where do i stop though? Thats the problem once the engines out and if the head came off it would be a good time to get headwork done etc etc its all money! By the way im running a hks gt2530r kai turbo on my 20 and it made 372bhp @1.25bar and full boost (pre turbo gasket failer) by 3500. Old tec but well matched to the rb20
Love the time, effort and attention to detail going into this build mate, makes for a very satisfying read
I'd just get the studs drilled, the head skimmed and new head gasket. Good chance to take a look at the conditions of the bores and pistons too. Thats good power, I'll be aiming for about 350 with this at some point next year - - - Updated - - - Thanks for taking the time to read through means a lot
So I've given myself a challenge to get this back on the road in 30 days so hopefully updates will be coming thick and fast. Day 1: Collected the head back from the machine shop after having the studs drilled and the head skimmed. {} {} Lifter buckets back in {} Cams back on {} New ARP head studs (with stupid imperial multi point nuts) {} {} Head is now back on and everything is torqued down correctly, new camshaft seals are in. Left the unit at approx 00:30 with this: {} Earlier in the day, many things also arrived: {} HKS cam pulleys GReddy timing belt Nissan coolant Shell 5w40 Power steering fluid Japspeed downpipe Japspeed flexi de-cat Japspeed elbow Day 2: More things arrived {} {} Mishimoto Rad Mishimoto front mound Mishimoto catch can Thermostat Oil filter Spark plugs JIS battery terminal converters Magnetic sump plug Half moons for the back of the cam covers Exhaust studs Nissan gearbox oil Apex'i air filter Ogura racing clutch and flywheel Felt pretty sleepy so just did a 5 minute oil filter and spark plug install {} {}
Day 3: Deliveries: {} Live cable Earth cable Fuse Crimps Battery terminals Standard J-Pipe and BOV Clutch pedal Brake pedal Heat shrink Not pictured: Clutch fork Clutch M/C and lines Thermostat in {} Cam gears on {} Timing belt on {} All covered up {} Exhaust studs in {} New gasket on {} Exhaust manifold on {} Started on inlet side {} {} Now onto a problem. I got the front half of an RB20DET manual prop and I was planning on bolting it onto the back half of mine, however as you can see below the carrier bearing is on the front half on the RB20 and the back half on my RB25DE auto one. {} Does anyone know what I need to make this work?
Looks like you're getting there. Found this info regarding R32 props on Skyline Owners: "The prop shaft can either be an easy bolt in or a mix of the old aft section and the new manual front section. This depends on whether the present and donor cars are the same 2 or 4 door models and if equiped with ABS or not. The rear ABS sensor is located in the front portion of the rear diff. So, a car with ABS has a rear diff that is about 2 inches longer in the front, and shorter propshaft than one without ABS." So that may be your issue?
