Purchased this from Danny at SideWayzJapan for my first drift car. Spec.. Rb25det engine conversion done in Japan Skyline ecu with hks Fcon 5 speed box and r32 gtr rear diff Tomei pon cams Solid lifters Tomei fuel rail 550 injectors Ngk racing plugs Hks twin plate clutch Greedy TD06 externally gated turbo and manifold Full 3" straight though exhaust Greedy intake manifold Splitfire coil packs Koyo radiator greedy oil cooler Oil filter re location kit Fmic with custom short pipe work Fuel pressure reg Battery relocated to boot R33 gtr brembo brakes all around 18" origin labo wheels Tein coilovers Adjustable bottom arms Ganador mirrors Full Cusco cage Bride seats no wear or rips Takata race harness Defi gauges Defi controller Blitz specR electronic boost controller BN Sports Type 4 aero kit, BN Sports 30mm front fenders and 50mm rear fenders Made 344bhp@wheels at MGT tuning Was built by Nagatagumi in Japan for the 2013 D1 series and purchased by me, a novice newbie to Drifting. Will be going to my first practice day in December and feel a bit apprehensive about making myself look like some tard with all the gear and no idea as such. Lol! Suppose everyone has to start somewhere.. Will be going with my cousin bats in his skyline and my mate StiG in his Stunning Bayside blue S14 so should have a laugh . Will update this with some of the goods i have been purchasing soon.
Yeah the thought had crossed my mind. I have had a E30 Mtech and a S15 spec R before so im not unfamiliar with rwd cars, Plus loads of big power Evo's so would like to think i got some sense of car control. Will just have to see how i get on.
Would be criminal to jus dent the the fuck outta that drifting it! Looks awesome, too awesome for hammering! Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk
Would be criminal not to give it a hammering when that's what it's been built for lol just means you have to fix it when you fuck it, welcome to drifting sir
As long as you don't think you need semi's on the rear for learning, then you can still learn in it. Some hard-wearing & consistent 235's should see enough grip to get the feel for it but not too much to make it tricky How peaky is the engine? Decent amount of midrange torque? Don't be scared to take the kit off, one less mental barrier in the way while learning
Its seems to have Loads of mid range and top end power. Feels quite brutal and sounds pretty angry. Was out in heavy rain yesterday and was fighting with it in 4th gear so called it a day before it all went wrong. Will run with out the front bumper on. Picked up a set of as new18x10j Grids that i will use for skids and will just put new tyres on.
Wicked car. I hope you drive the arse off it First tho I'd strongly consider a £500 e36 and doing a couple of days at tracks like Birmingham wheels. You'll learn how to control the car and get it in and out of drifts properly A RB14 isn't going to be for the faint of heart both power and handleing wise lol
Don't. Have a look at the alignment thread and ensure it's setup with a basic drift setting As long as you don't have too much grip you will be fine. The only time i've seen people try and learn in "too much car" and struggle is when they set it up to get the maximum out of the car (super soft rear suspension, grippy alignment settings, sticky rear tyres). As soon as they accept they aren't up to the level of the car and adjust the car to suit them can start learning. The reason we use these cars are because of their adjustability - almost everything is changeable to suit different environments, including driver. If you set the car up for your skill level then you'll be fine. In some ways it's better than a beater: not all the modifications are about making more power/speed, some will be for reliability, which should mean you're out there for longer.
If you had asked everyone before hand cheap and cheerful would of been the way but now you've bought it you can keep it forever and never need to upgrade anything, its spec'd for life. No point selling it now just get the Geo right and Tyre choice and it will be like anything ... just dont expect to be able to jump into a e36 and drift it easy as people who learn with power always need a good amount as they dont know different. Good luck and have fun
Agreed, dont listen to all the scare mongers. You can learn in pretty much anything. Maybe if you were at the 5-600bhp level it would be tricky but 400ish bhp @ fly is not a crazy number. Follow the guidance for setup and tyres and then just drive within your limits. You dont need to go banging doors and walls like all these kids in the 500 quid BMWs do. Just start off steady with some single corner action then worry about linking things together once you have a feel for it. For some reason theres a big mentality with people these days that you have to buy a shit car because you will definitely crash it. Just dont try and 100mph reverse entry to wall tap on your first run and you will do fine.
Cheers for all the comments and advice chaps. Im hopefully going to get out on a abandoned Airport near me on sunday and get practice in before the practice day. Lol. The OriginLab wheels on it at the moment have 245/40/18 on the front and 265/35 on the back with spacers. What size tyre should i put on the Rota 18x10j that im going to use? I dont want or need a stretch so should i stick with 265/35 for my rear spare wheels? Im going to stick with the car for sure.
265s is going to be an expensive way of going drifting, youll also find it easier to learn with a bit less grip.
Keep the 265's on the Origin wheels for street duties. Use normal street-spec 235's on the spares. 265's will put a lot of load on your driveline, and with the power you have you want to avoid having to change axles regularly, especially while learning (you're learning to drift, not learning to repair it!). Keeping around the 235 width means you shouldn't run that risk, and as you progress you can drop tyre pressures to get more grip - start at 40-45psi to start, dropping in 3-4psi increments if you find you don't get a lot of feedback. The first time out is a shakedown as much as for the car as it is yourself, be prepared to go out for a minute or two, then come in and change something like frotn and rear damper settings and tyre pressures. Brands to consider: Hifly, Evergreen, Tri-ace, Kapsen, Horace, Durun, Goldway Brands to avoid: Austyre, Nankang (NS20) - both tend to not handle heat too well and increase in pressure fast, get very slippery then fall to pieces With the alignment, don't get talked into going grippy - most alignment places will see the car and want to set them up to get the maximum out of it which is a big trap. Make it clear what settings you want. If they keep saying you're wrong take it somewhere else.
