Yeah the vet head build would have been mega . For the price I paid for the jz and cd009 I would have had the engine fully built and forged sr20vet by now but I guess I went a better route . Well I think I did anyway .. .. A nice torquey engine with a nice solid 6 speed gearbox
it looks like loads but it was a sr16ve head and 2x 1jz vvti ha ok so pulling the finger out of my hole the last few weeks just a shot of the good stuff with a magnetic greddy sump lug chopped the traction control off the throttle body ive got a aluminium 90 degree bend in the post ill weld it on the tb instead, and decided to completely by pass coolant away from the throttle body . as you can see I just made a an6 loop from the front water feed to the back also got the rail an fittings just going to let it sit along here and as I am going to rework the standard loom , usually its a big piece of plastic here im also deleting the iacv so I have a nice billet block off plate coming for that too just trying to mock up the fuel pipes and see what I can use from the sr20 setup I had, ill most likely buy all new an6 hose and do the whole lot fresh pulled it out of the shed and gave the bay a power wash , was destroyed from a hicas leak I had when I bought it started removing the master cylinders and all the in bay steel brake pipes as ill be changing to an3 Teflon chase bays stuff, also took off the power steering hard lines there also going to be custom braided, im in two minds to get the bay sprayed while its stripped. also removed all the loom so im now going to start into splicing and making my own loom for starter solenoid etc for the jz my Collins adapter kit arrived after, savage machining on it , just went to local place and got some Allen bolts, ordered the line up dowels for the box off Nissan as it doesn't have any and I don't want all the stress on the box and I want it 100% centred got my chase bays s13 1jz to cd009 braided clutch line just waiting patiently now took into the loom so far ive deleted the traction control, fuel evap solenoid, boost solenoid few more I cant think of but basically reducing the loom drastically all the interior powers from the fuse box etc. im only halfway there with it so far its crying to be fixed, its has 215/50 rear tyres and 215/40 front im going to buy 4x 215/45 westlakes hopefully rises the front bumper but fills arch gap a little at the minute im just waiting on my xcessive engine mount brackets, solid rubber mounts, and other little bits like rays wheel nuts. im guessing maybe 10-12 weeks should have it done. I have the front pulled off it now waiting to fit the engine and I can mock up intercooler pipes etc
Got my mounts today . Really high quality and good thick steel . Huge adjustment in them so looking forward to fitting them . Xcessive manufacturing s13 kit Just got a iacv block of plate to it's just a billet plate with a o ring . A 3 inch 90 degree bend that I will weld into the throttle body , as they end up very close to the radiator and it's best to have a solid peice rather than a silicone joiner . And then just a oem Toyota oil filter but it's the larger type as there is too . Looking forward to fitting it now I've ordered all of my relays and fuse blocks etc to make up my powers to the Ecu and fuel pump etc ..
hey, nice build looking really sick, have you got any more photos of the screamer pipe and how it went down near the down pipe? did you put any isolation on the loom that runs on that turret or was it all good? thanks
Got the engine fitted last night was a tight squeeze Also got a compression test done 170psi across all 6 Also the billet block off plate for the iacv
Trc deleted from the throttle body and 3 inch 90 welded on for space near the radiator . And 90 degree silicone joiners can weaken and fatigue .. The intercooler pipe off the turbo I cut and shortened it to remove the fitting for the standard bov. Just makes life easier than capping off pipes
That's the throttle body sorted I got a japspeed universal 100mm rad too . I find that if I fla little extra with the cooling on this Silvia as regards water and oil I will have no real problems and it will be reliable . I just have the get the rad pipe parts moved to where I want the . If this won't help cool it I dunno what will Mounted up my fpr on the opposite side Engine mounts arrived Decided to buy some stainless and try to begin making up the exhaust . I bought 4metres and 4 90s The welds are shit but the important part is I made it myself and it will be strong I did a bit of heat anodising for the tips just to trick it up a bit and not let it just be another shotgun And just squashing the pipe in the vice to make a oval centre section for clearance . I need to buy 2 3inch v bands now to finish it , I also got a high quality flexi for the down pipe The Aslong as the exhaust has no blows , clears the ground . And tips look good I'm happy . Not looking to win any welding competitions ha I have also ordered a lot of parts to finish the car watch this space
the Collins flywheel arrived for the 1jz to cd009 conversion also the Collins conversion mount with the flywheel bolts and also mount fitting hardware also began fitting the 100mm rad, lots of cutting had to be done and alos more will be http://s733.photobucket.com/user/burkey0013/media/IMG_1268_zpszk5cjvod.jpg.html][/URL] %5BURL=http://s733.photobucket.com/user/burkey0013/media/IMG_1270_zpswqe0lkcd.jpg.html]. [/URL]
Interesting you went for a 100mm top-to-bottom radiator, keen to hear how it goes on track. The best results i've seen for cooling drift cars have used cross flow, twin or triple pass radiators, around 60-70mm thick. Coolant stays in the radiator longer so comes out much cooler than single pass top-to-bottom. However, considering you're not stressing the engine it'll be much of a muchness
ecu arrived . ecu masters black. bosch lsu 4.9 o2 sensor, bosch iat sensor, 7ft loom , and a mac boost solenoid {} {} I did fit my flywheel and torque it all up with the addition of a act heavy duty 6 puck paddle clutch. the clutch is brand new it was in a car, that's was based mapped and then removed as you can see its still not even wore of the protective surface {} {} {} also marked up the area where I need to more hammering for the tunnel , its done now just no picture, was constantly worried about smashing my heater core, that would have been not nice {} the fiveomotorsport bosch ev14 550cc injectors {} also the k20 type r coils ill be running on my set up {} to be really honest I never really thought about a cross flow rad simply because the sr20 one is up and down and also the chaser jzx100 is too and that's where the engine came from so I decided to just go with this, I know a lot of boys that run 52mm rads and have no problems but I just wanted to be safe, plus the extra few litres of coolant will keeps temps at bay, well that's the plan, im guessing next update the engine and box will be back together and in the car for the last time and I nearly have my chase bays order here now.
some rays on rays . new wheel nuts {} ive also sent away my turbo to be spec'd a little different {} {}
Love the build! Spent a good hour reading through it Just! Btw I'd love the same front bumper for mine
comp housing bored and uprated journal bearing and thrust pad fitted {} got some samco bits then to make the heater matrix fully functioning as its important on a road car also made up some hard rads pipes {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} got the intercooler pipes and intake fabbed up i used v bands also to complete the exhaust and the lsu and iat sesnor fitted {} {} {} {} {} at this stage i was beginning to get happy with the car and i could see where things were going {} {} loaded it up and sent it off to cork to be wired by paul twomey {} {}
when it was gone shit hit the fan changed my mind again about the turbo and i decided to do it right. sold the hybrid gtx3071r and bought this set up pte jornal bearing 5858 sinco manifold tial 44mm all vband no gaskets {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} got some 60mm advance guages for the s15 dash and a new nardi deep corn {} {}
how she sat for a bit {} from here paul just made this into a real car . hes a sound lad, real easy to deal with no bullshit and straight . good quality work and you pay for what you get {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} and i think my favorite photo of the car through the build {}
