Finally bought one

Thread in 'Project Cars and Builds Threads' started by neil a walker, Sep 5, 2008.

  1. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    [​IMG]10394576_10152675627267580_757870919077045380_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    As the Jag was charge cooled, The charger didn't come with an intake on the charger - so i made a template up
    to see how much clearance i had

    [​IMG]10454302_10152675627892580_1969277963640481836_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    With a bit of Box section ali fitted inside, you can see how close the Bolt heads are

    [​IMG]10468071_10152675628662580_1994687034150358969_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    url=https://flic.kr/p/ooFL4Q][​IMG][/url]10432095_10152675629677580_5877562253493626185_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    Here's a few pictures from the top showing the space limitations of running it Horizontally
    [​IMG]10485111_10152660466347580_1090723947113791194_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10407398_10152660468662580_4053151691668237405_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10446636_10152660469102580_8857300755500033920_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10402877_10152660466767580_4034236323013684949_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10313802_10152660467322580_1027237844589025910_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    So now i know it's got to fit slightly off vertically, With the outlet pipe being tilted upwards


    I have this handy Bolt through the cam cover which i will be making full use of for a belt guide pulley.
    [​IMG]10505625_10152675659152580_5963896181893082821_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    So i next Made some Mock up Brackets to give me a better idea of how to fit it
    [​IMG]10514635_10152680160972580_2317907175588910303_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]1623704_10152680163862580_6812238554203100175_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10511084_10152680161567580_6481798243033688196_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10479742_10152680159032580_2156442899358956911_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    if i can get it a bit closer to the block, and tilt the top around a bit more, we should have loads of clearance for the outlet pipe.
    There a few things i need to move though. The Fuel filter, a brace from the engine mount, a metal hard pipe that bolts to the engine mount, and another connector that i can put further back with some longer hoses. — with needs to get closer to the block, battery tray can come off and relocate as the AFM will be going here.

    Iv'e also canned the idea of the Dastek Unichip. It would do the job, But lots of guys in the USA and beyond have been using Apexi safc's with their turbo 5MGE conversions, along With a AEM Wideband sensor (Which is my next purchase)
    to tune the correct A/F ratio realtime. I bought a Apexi Neo for £150 plus Shipping ect.
    Also on the list are some early Yellow 295cc 7MGE injectors and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

    [​IMG]$_57 by shiredrifter, on Flickr
     
  2. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    More on that soon. Onto Diff rebuild.

    [​IMG]10550881_10152725160857580_1120962232664987510_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10526106_10152725162257580_2448837464490116629_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10320481_10152725162532580_2999905136378621172_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10461397_10152725163447580_2282833743848936315_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10411918_10152725161737580_1046012285491096703_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10409720_10152725164222580_2664908506547755770_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]10325137_10152725165487580_7206379641649500280_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    The standard toyota Crush sleeve. Known to fail over time.

    [​IMG]10346591_10152725166482580_4479720348136205484_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Closer look at the Weir Performance Solid Crush sleeve v's Toyota Effort

    [​IMG]10417752_10152725167572580_233646334119105028_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    As you can see the Weir Performance Solid crush sleeve is pretty meaty compared to the Toyota one.
    That pinion is going nowhere! (Unless the bearings shit themselves! )

    [​IMG]10450175_10152725191477580_7907538325041569105_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Bad thing is - Without Spacers the Weir is a fraction longer than the Toyota, And since this diff had a really good mesh between pinion and crown wheel It's not short enough. The one from my other diff was longer.
    All depends on casting and outer race distances. Every one is unique.
    Easy fix for me = Lathe job

    [​IMG]10474890_10152725193167580_5145571769989501520_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Another job you have to do is Loctite the 8 bolts holding the diff together and torque up to 35 LB/FT

    [​IMG]10395838_10152725193682580_7555324320216520163_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    A vice is good for this. Put one stub axle into the diff

    [​IMG]10382869_10152725194412580_7967820641160167202_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    I undid the bolts individually so's not to let it spring open and fly about across the workshop. The new springs in the Weir diff are REALLY hard!

    [​IMG]10514518_10152725194067580_9113268256626678876_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Torquing up.

    [​IMG]10538054_10152725194797580_4094072095375570886_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Here you can see above the gear, the two stationary plates sandwiching the new clutch discs that never came originally. Usually it's just 3 stationary plates to make up the gap, and the diff locks purely by the back face of the gears pushing against the face of the stationary plates. The splines on the gears go unused. They made this diff VERY soft! But it's a 2 way plate type LSD so worth a little effort

    [​IMG]10516679_10152725195827580_7465581097640014148_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Stationary plate tabs inside diff upper casing

    [​IMG]10304563_10152725196297580_4598837740885313797_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Nissan 200sx diff oil cooler amongst some shameless advertising Thanks Thomas rusty slider for the donation!

    [​IMG]10330504_10152725189877580_685612758191193387_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    Working out where the best place to fit is. Thinking in front of fuel tank, but also considering directly behind the diff.

    And that's about where i'm Upto.
    [​IMG]SAM_0862 by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    In the meantime i have been prepping old Supra body panels to make moulds from. Finished articles will be a mix of Carbon fiber and Kevlar as i now have a vac pump:smokin:

    [​IMG]SAM_0839 by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]SAM_0838 by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    This means they can be resin infused so no air bubbles and a very strong panel. Outer skin will most likely be carbon, and inner skin kevlar as it has brilliant abrasion qualities. It's not a cheap thing to make, but i figured as panels for these cars are rare, i might as well make them.

    Also been making some more Coilover sleeves for guys wanting to run Modern adjustable coilovers on old cars like these.
    Done quite a few now for different makes and models and seems like word is spreading a bit more.:D


    [​IMG]SAM_1023 by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]SAM_1024 by shiredrifter, on Flickr
    M53 X 2P thread
     
    #362 neil a walker, Jul 20, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2014
  3. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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  4. chieflongshin

    chieflongshin Member

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    Great looking car
     
  5. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    Cheers Man. And yeah, The colour isn't changing much at all. Will be MK4 Supra anthracite. It's originally what i wanted it to be, but didn't know the paint code back then.

    [​IMG]

    Which is the same as my favorite AE86:smokin:
    [​IMG]

    Quite like the Briarwood Pearl though...:confused: There isn't a lot in it tbh

    [​IMG]
     
    #365 neil a walker, Jul 21, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2014
  6. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    Almost forgot, Adam Holt filmed a video on his phone from last years Retro Show when i had a piss about on the freeTime trial. Couldn't go mad as i had a boot full of shit and barely legal rubber on there already, but thought it was worth posting up for the noise.

    Needless to say - i didn't win:smash:
     
  7. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    New seals and stake nut & washer. A shade under £80 from Toyota with discount! But you pay for quality:confused:

    [​IMG]10376841_10152752081537580_2387628472668005863_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    Outer races looked really good as were the bearings so no point spapping bearings really.
    Cheers Rainer, it was a really mint diff! :thumbs:
    Only had 1 snapped spring too, but a great base tbh

    [​IMG]10440988_10152752082147580_1531705328793407672_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    Outlet pipe clears nicely, and a direct line up to the
    small hole underneath the lights. I may reduce the size of the piping to the intercooler to 2.5" It helps to keep boost pressure and means i haven't got to make a 3.25" inch hole in the bodywork
    [​IMG]10440753_10152752083352580_7767576130141003196_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    1 Lower bracket made with hammers in the new position, This clears everything now and much happier with the line up
    [​IMG]10527293_10152752083872580_7454326053683239237_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    Need to remove the battery tray but that's a good thing really, as it's a lot of weight in that corner. Boost pipe will be going through the holes next to the radiator
    [​IMG]10517538_10152752082742580_7052907843517491350_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    Not sure it'll look right when it's got the bumper on. Might do it copper or Brass coloured to blend in a bit better
    [​IMG]10561826_10152744730132580_568329107657798632_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    Intercooler is a tight fit between the pop up light motors, Tried flipping it the other way, and the bottom of it is just above the sump. :( Haven't got many options with where to put it so will put the bumper back on and have another look. May have to cut some thinks:smash:

    [​IMG]10557348_10152744729707580_583726282067465865_n by shiredrifter, on Flickr
     
  8. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    Mark had a week off work, so he bust his ass for a solid week working on his E21 project and very kindly Put some hours in with the Ma61

    [​IMG]SAM_1080 by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    He started Stitch welding everything, but came to a halt when i left the looms in (oops) But he did a lot!

    [​IMG]SAM_1075 by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    Floors are in great nick for a 30 year old car though. Typical 80's Toyota!

    [​IMG]SAM_1076 by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    All the joins on the floor pan will be stitch welded before the cage goes in. They were starting to pop anyhow and adds a lot of structural integrity into an old and frankly quite floppy car. They rallied them so i'm taking some inspiration from that in this build.

    [​IMG]
    SAM_1078 by shiredrifter, on Flickr


    The dash had to come out for the cage, and means i can get rid of a few things. I want to run a small motorsport heater blower for the windscreen and simplify the layout.

    [​IMG]SAM_1079 by shiredrifter, on Flickr

    A small motorsport heater like this actually!
    [​IMG]

    Demon Tweeks Lightweight Heater - Demon Tweeks
     
  9. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    it's looking a bit sorry for itself at the moment eh! Needed to be done though!
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Mark did a bit of stitch welding, then thought we should just attack the sills with wire wheels!
    [​IMG]

    So we did. :cry: Right, lets see what's under there then (apart from a shitload of filler)

    [​IMG]

    "Nom nom nom" Tin worms have been busy - Bastards :mad:
    [​IMG]

    Very busy in fact!
    [​IMG]

    And it gets worse! so best just get cutting.
    [​IMG]

    This was only for an MOT pass back when i first got the car, Never imagined it would last this long tbh, so wasn't too precious about it.
    [​IMG]

    offside isn't as bad, but still going to cut it all out and do it properly this time - I can't afford one of these cars now with the scene tax, so best just knuckle down and fix it.

    [​IMG]

    It got so wet from the ariel hole and sunroof drains, it's got fucking tide marks in the rear quarter!
    [​IMG]

    Anyhow, getting depressed looking at these photo's, so onto something a bit more positive! The Pipe bender is now fully operational with 1.75" od (44.45mm) tooling for the rollcage It had to be made as the machine never came with any tooling. Special thanks to Huxley motorsport for giving me some great advice with that - I helped him with rear coilover specs, so sharing information rocks! Cheers if you read this man!
    https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/15185550896_9cc05ff2c2_b.jpg[/img]

    [​IMG]

    And i bought some items to cheer me up a bit- coz rust is bloody depressing isn't it

    [​IMG]

    2.5" od Intercooler pipework kit from Toyosports (ebay) £65 - will need some silicon reducer elbows
    [​IMG]

    And i also got an AEM uego Wideband kit with 6 wire Bosch lambda sensor and gauge £135
    [​IMG]

    And a second hand boost gauge for £10 off a local lad that was breaking an s14
    [​IMG]

    That keeps me motivated while i get on with "Operation Scrape" and spend hour apon hour removing all the white foamy underseal - Already had to pop 3 blisters in my hands from doing this shit.
    [​IMG]
     
    #369 neil a walker, Sep 11, 2014
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2014
  10. jaggafeen

    jaggafeen Member

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    always wanted one of these
     
  11. Van_Denton

    Van_Denton Member

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    Love this!! Just read the whole thread! Where did you get your wheels from? find it hard to find 114x4 deep dish negative offset wheels, unless you want to send mega bucks, just getting some steels banded for my s12 coz I cant find what I want.
     
  12. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    Cheers man, just seen your s12 thread. I got the wheels custom made by Compomotive a few years ago now. were £155 each back then. Specs are 15 x 9 et-14 on the front and et-24 on the back. Dunno what's happening to Compomotive at the moment, so give Minilite a buzz, they do a 15 x 9 upto et-30! and a 15 x 10 too! Rota's are a good bet if you don't mind ordering from the states though. They do stuff in 15 x 9 et-15 over there, but the UK selection is shite!
    Saying that though - Driftworks have some decent sized 15's now. Have a look in the shop if you haven't already
     
  13. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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  14. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    Once again, The Machining wizard that is Dean Pulled out all the stops for me to Modify the pulleys so i didn't have to fork out for a new custom one. Thanks Dude, You ROCK!
    Front Aircon pulley removed from the Toyota 5MGE Crank pulley

    [IMG 32610527403_c1bd252499_b. 13652672_10209158308650213_1091067207_n by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]


    (Before v - with the aircon pulley)

    [IMG 33296336291_53133cf232_h. SAM_2536 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Dean Centre bored to 88 and to a depth of 35mm with a step cleaned up inside on the Toyota Pulley

    [​IMG]13714274_10209158312490309_975814791_n[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Spacer locates inside the step and bolts through with countersunk bolts to the Toyota pulley.

    [​IMG]13689662_10209158319170476_970166392_n[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    The Jag xjr -6 Supercharger pulley with One pulls removed & Register machined down to 88mm
    [IMG[​IMG]13689588_10209158299809992_2019703996_n by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Then shorten to 25mm long

    [​IMG]13689810_10209158298409957_1227012316_n (1)[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Jaguar Pulley then slides inside the Toyota Pulley and bolts into the spacer using the original holes

    [​IMG]13735192_10209158319330480_179554516_n[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Like so >



    So now the finished item looks like this. Can't wait to bolt it on and get a belt on there B-)

    [​IMG]13672537_10209158319570486_1398550598_n[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    #374 neil a walker, Apr 4, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2017
  15. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    Progress. Rainer Cliff popped over to make my strange idea's into reality with the door bars. Cheers bro!
    Also - massive thanks to Mark and Dean for all their work to get it this far!

    33027411373_0e7e165c5c_b. 13882527_10154796613587580_440125466903887719_n by neil walker, on Flickr

    33027411213_863ec9d2f2_b. 13895082_10154796613747580_7575191011117409712_n by neil walker, on Flickr

    Nice bit of clearance between door bars and my hip and arm now
    33027411703_74f5b14020_b. 13882231_10154796613592580_3008619651973278482_n by neil walker, on Flickr


    The car is a bit of a funny shape, and combined with me having to run the seat rails outboard to get it low enough i didn't have much space between the seat and the cage. I went for this style door bar, and tilted them out to touch the inside skin of the doors

    33027411553_5384eab904_b. 13882527_10154796613232580_6339845751567306372_n by neil walker, on Flickr

    33027410173_2778650b06_b. 13912912_10154796613222580_5776250779541886054_n by neil walker, on Flickr


    33684908592_f65b37d494_b. 13932697_10154796613227580_8708266056295235017_n by neil walker, on Flickr
    Bottoms of the cage legs got boxed in with 3mm. I made them slightly different before, but this is how Rainer did it, and it's given me more ankle room


    Main hoop legs box gussets and floor plates all welded in
    33027411883_aa8d3c2c62_b. 13876102_10154796613522580_8121064711227451888_n by neil walker, on Flickr


    Shoulder belts will attach to this back tube that mark welded in.
    33027410673_f168d2655e_b. 13903202_10154796613577580_5630761585611850663_n by neil walker, on Flickr

    Door bars are flat in the middle of the door, so should protect me well against side impacts
    (not that we want that of course)

    33027411373_0e7e165c5c_b. 13882527_10154796613587580_440125466903887719_n by neil walker, on Flickr


    With the dash plonked back in
    33027409723_5b7f74ce7c_b. 13939335_10154796613802580_4270323463942070218_n by neil walker, on Flickr


    And a photo to show the crank pulley mounted on.
    33027411103_52fd4e5e19_b. 13895194_10154796613807580_8078098027834405624_n by neil walker, on Flickr
     
  16. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    I Bought a 4 litre kit of U Pol Raptor Truck bed liner for the underside o the car. Fully impressed with it!
    That shits unscratchable it seems, and goes on lovely with a shultz gun on a compressor. Tigersealed the seams beforehand so hopefully it should last

    [​IMG]SAM_2705[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Used about 3 Litres of raptor on the underneath, so had a bit left to do the insides in places most likely to wear. The footwells have a nice waterproof and grippy surface now. The rest of the inside is going silver.

    [IMG[​IMG]SAM_2707 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    I also did the boot floor with what i had left. Quite glad i did as it really tidies it up a lot

    [​IMG]SAM_2710[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [​IMG]SAM_2711[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]


    I have started to plumb up the new fuel system. The whole car is using 8mm ptfe lined braided stainless hose & AN6 fittings. All apart from the fuel cell and swirl pot - which are AN8, but thought this a bit overkill and meant buying lots of different fittings and hose, so keep it simple stupid i thought. The Lift pump from the Fuel cell is a Facet Red top, and the main pump is a Walbro GSL392, Which flows 255 LPH

    [IMG[​IMG]SAM_2721 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Placement of the Walbro Fuel pump and Bosch fuel filter is causing a bit of head scratching at the moment. I quite like this position as it's close to the swirl pot, and well out of the way of damage, but will have a play about before i drill any holes!

    [​IMG]SAM_2717[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    I bought some AN6 through Bulkhead fittings for joining up the fuel lines from the underside of the car. I didn't want to run the lines through with grommets around the hose as think thats a bit sketchy. This sits under the diff carrier subframe so well out the way and close to the swirl pot
    [​IMG]SAM_2720[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Screwed on some 90 deg fittings, but looking at it, Straight ones are better
    [​IMG]SAM_2719[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Once i figure out where the main fuel pump and filter is going, i'll do the rest of the lines.
    [​IMG]SAM_2716[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    I also made this dry break style filler a while ago. for the jgtc tyte look yo. hehehe:zzzzz:
    [IMG[​IMG]SAM_2699 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG[​IMG]SAM_2697 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [​IMG]SAM_2696[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Filler neck on the jaz fuel cell is quite tall so might chop a few cm off it to lower the angle
    [​IMG]SAM_2698[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Did some work to the dashboard in preparation for Car trimming wonderwoman Nicky to sprinkle some skill over it. Ordered a length of Black proper job Alcantara cloth to cover up the skanky old blue, so before i used some of the the dry carbon honeycomb dashboard that Amy's better half gave me, These Holes are for the AEM Wideband and Boost gauge, but have also ordered Oil pressure and temp gauges too.
    [​IMG]SAM_2722[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Where the heater vents for the side windows used to live, i cleaned up the corner that fouled the cage and boxed it in with some dry carbon fibre. A lot tidier.
    [IMG[​IMG]SAM_2725 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    A wider shot so you can see the honeycomb and the tidied up corner
    [​IMG]SAM_2723[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    The underside is nearly there, Just the diff and prop to fit really, but wanted to do the fuel lines first before putting them back in.

    [​IMG]SAM_2730[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]
     
  17. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    On a bit of a tight budget this month for progressing with the supra, but really needed to paint the interior so the loom and everything else can go back in to get it running. Didn't have access to a spray gun and any decent paint so had to resort to silver alloy wheel paint in rattle cans. 8 for £28 got the job done and racecar innit!

    [​IMG]SAM_2747[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Doesn't look half bad from a distance, and blends it all together a bit better.
    [IMG[​IMG]SAM_2748 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG[​IMG]SAM_2749 by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]

    The door bar tops will need a bit of protecting from scuffing i think, so might use either a bit of raptor or some vinyl 3M i had for the roof.[​IMG]

    Up to the final skim on making it look like a non sunroof car. Used a combination of fibreglass bridging gunk and filler mixed up to give it some strength, then built it up in thinnish layers and sanding down with a long block

    [​IMG]

    The boot floor is masked up where i sprayed the black raptor, as are the front foot wells
    [​IMG]SAM_2746[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG]


    Will let that dry and get to work putting the loom ect back in the car tomorrow
     
  18. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    Right, Onto the cars present state...:rolleyes: (Gone back to Flickr As a host now so hopefully the pics shouldn't disappear anymore!) Anyone else having problems loading photos on here? mine seems a bit sporadic!


    Been off the supra for a few months after we had to give up the old workshop, so while the suns briefly out i decided to fit the Greddy (trust) manifold i ordered.
    Fits like a dream around the Steering column. (OBX ones don't fit on RHD cars as it turns out - expensive faux pas![​IMG]SAM_2816[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG] [​IMG]SAM_2816[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG] [​IMG]SAM_2816[/url] by neil walker, on Flickr[/IMG] [​IMG]SAM_2816 by neil walker, on Flickr
    The Airflow meter will be replaced with a Map sensor eventually, when i invest in a Megasquirt DIYPNP 52 standalone ECU
    [​IMG]SAM_2807 by neil walker, on Flickr
    [​IMG]

    It looks a bit more together than it did, and tried to put some paint on it before it went into winter hibernation

    [​IMG]SAM_2809 by neil walker, on Flickr

    Door opened to show the door bars - Door cards are out & are being replaced with Carbon Fiber ones. Black Alcantara for the soft part on top.
    [​IMG]SAM_2811 by neil walker, on Flickr

    Seats, dash and wiring back in, just needs the dash covered in either alcantara or flocked before the screen can go back in

    [​IMG]SAM_2812 by neil walker, on Flickr

    Center console switches. The Electric window switches had to be moved as they are mounted on the door cars and fouled the cages doorbars

    Had some Dry weave carbon from an old BTCC touring car Dashboard my friend rescued from a junkyard years and years ago.
    Was too good to not do anything with! Sides will be trimmed with carbon too, Using the offcuts from the door cards.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]SAM_2815 by neil walker, on Flickr

    The welded up sunroof didn't turn out too shabby in the end. A few low spots but the body shop will have to address that anyhow when it goes in for a repaint hopefully later on this summer

    [​IMG]SAM_2814 by neil walker, on Flickr

    Been waiting for a Samco Profuel filler pipe for sodding ages,so can't yet connect up the fuel filler, but ordered up the correct banjo bolts and fittings for the fuel rail now. m14 x 1.5 as it turns out
    [​IMG][​IMG]SAM_2813 by neil walker, on Flickr

    I have been through a few old computers since i started this thread, so won't have all the old photos, but will try and edit as many previous posts as i can to get them up and viewable again for ya'll
     
    #378 neil a walker, Apr 4, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2017
  19. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    I bought some foam backed alcantara a while ago, wasn't gunna work for what i had initially planned, but made use of it. A cold blustery Sunday here, and was originally going karting, but a cancellation meant i needed something constructive to occupy my time.
    Ordered some carbon fibre sheet for replacement door cards, but the tops of the door have soft vinyl. Mine was blue and pretty scruffy after 32 years so removed the old vinyl very carefully and used it to make trim patterns on the Black Alcantara.

    32719100313_3f05cafdae_h. SAM_2818 by neil walker, on Flickr

    32719099543_2121a02e7e_h. SAM_2824 by neil walker, on Flickr

    The original covers are glued at the top and stapled at the bottom, so just repeated what they had done at the factory.
    Once the Carbon Sheet arrives, i will use the old door cards in much the same way for making a pattern, only this time just having the door handle hole
     
  20. neil a walker

    neil a walker Active Member

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    I bought some big sheets of carbon fiber from Geoff steel racing and had it delivered to work last week.
    Used the old door cards at templates & cut it out with a 1mm disc so not to fray the edges

    33754014876_47a5ced97c_h. SAM_2825 by neil walker, on Flickr

    Didn't want to drill holes to fix it all around the door, so used some heavy weight adhesive backed velcro - 50mm wide and means i can simply tear the cards off if i need to remove them to gain access to electricals
    33638662822_c814fb6081_h. SAM_2827 by neil walker, on Flickr

    It certainly brings the interior up to date. No more 32 year old velour and vinyl in here!
    33754013906_a87b4929ee_h. SAM_2829 by neil walker, on Flickr

    Now doing something with the handle surrounds as they are really sun bleached.
    33638662292_1ede1aa239_h. SAM_2830 by neil walker, on Flickr
     

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