You've also hacked up a 6 cilinder inlet manifold, nice! Funny that you used the original rubber 6 cilinder elbow on the throttle boddy... i've also tried that, but it became a balloon when boost hit so we wrapped it in boat line just for the mapping session, blew anyway The problem i had when it started to make some boost is that the cilinder cracked in the small cut area between the bores. Are you planning on shimming them out or go with darton sleves?
I didn't have any problem with the stock elbow, it held up fine. The intake manifold however.... damn thing made contact with the starter's positive terminal... Had to improvise a rubber shield between them... Yeah, cylinder walls... for now... we'll see how far I can take it. Project got out of hand a bit... original plan was to use the stock twins and be happy with ~350hp, but the HX40 was in right place at the right time.... No budget planned for engine stuff. If it breaks (and it will) probably I'll look for an "off" engine. Would love to have a boosted 1UZ, but a boosted m50b25 is a bit more realistic goal. And we also have a dinosaur 7MGTE in the garage... we will see.
Hi mate. I fitted lambda controlled mixer system to my chevy van. had another multipoint vehicle too. Give me a shout any Q's!
PM me if you dont wanna derail your thread Im assuming you'll be using a narrowband setup. In which case under normal load conditions you want the actuator valve to be between 40-60% travel during normal driving and alter the vapouriser to suit this. The lambda will flick between 0-1v (lean/rich) constantly when properly setup, holding rich on high load as much as possible. Let me know what setup you go with.
Hi, I wonder what the manifold is supposed to fit. I bet u cant get a bolt-on exhaust manifold for the old Volvo. Good work with the mounts for engine and gearbox. I got the same geabox for my 940, havent tried it yet but I think it will hold up.
It's time to upgrade this thread! Haven't done much for a while but now we're back working on the project. Last few weeks i've had a lot of help from my girlfriend, she really did a lot of stuff and made progress go fast. First of all the placement for the radiator and intercooler had to be made permanent. Quite a tight fit to be honest. Because the t5 engine had almost no space at the back of the engine it was a pain to make the wiring harness, heater lines, clutch line etc. fit, That's why the toyota came a bit more forward, it will be a little tighter on the front but certainly worth it while working on it. {} So started machining some brackets to mount the intercooler and radiator. These will be filled with some rubbers. {} after more than haf an hour of measuring and messing around with a lint did some simple aligning by the eye. More than accurate enough. way faster and after montage it measures straight also. {} The volvo 5 cylinder had enough cooling with a big copper radiator with this electric fan on it. So i'm hoping that placing it as a pusher on the nice aluminium rad will do for the toyota. {} rough test fit: {} It fits quite nice this way. Little bit odd is the difference in angle between the engine and radiator, but that shouldn't become an issue. When everything was roughly placed it was time to take it all apart again and finish it, so the engine came out again and we started on cleaning finishing and prepping for paint. {} Oh.., and one more thing. Ain't that pretty. 2JZ vvti Beru coil on plug brackets. Can't wait to machine and test these: {}
It's time for some updates on the engine. I've done a whole lot in the meantime but some sort of lost motivation for this project. There is more to come. The coil on plug brackets have been machined and fit nicely. Coils i've chosen are from beru, The vag kind. I have one extra set, If someone is interested send me a pm. {} {} {} Turned out the way i wanted it to. A college here was willing to weld the aluminium intake together for me. {} The ac pump have been removed and after searching for a belt i red that the other pump needs some sort of support that it normally gets from the ac compressor. After looking at some ebay mounts i decided to make my own again. {} {} Both the coil on plug and the powersteering pump brackets have to be finished, They'll get polished. While doing some research on the engine i read that it has not only the weak rods but also that the pistons that like to let the ringlands go when boosted. At first the idea was to build this engine with only a head-gasket and turbo attached while staying usable as a daily driver. Rods and pistons should be capable of handling some boost but no one knows precisely how much for how long. That's why i've decided to bite the bullet and build the engine completely including CP pistons, Eagle rods and ARP bolts everywhere. The parts have been ordered last week and should be here soon. Can't wait!
Thats the trouble using vvti ge’s, they have around a 350bhp limit on the rods and pistons, thats why i went for non vvti ge which is as strong as the trusty gte, minus the oil squirters lol Build is looking great!!! All those cnc parts are awesome
Would indeed have been smarter and cheaper using a non vvti. I did consider it, But the system seems quite interesting to play with. Cant wait to put it on a dyno and see what gains it delivers. Thanks! making those parts is part of the hobby
Hi, would you be able to pm me the adaptor drawings? cant get dropbox to work for some reason. Cheers :-)
Hi there, Love your build! Im looking to do the same build but on a different chassie! Did you end up making a final version of the adaptor plate? Also I was wondering if its not too much of your time if you could send me everything that I need and the measurements of everything that was custom fab in regards to the engine and gearbox as im able to use my uni workshop to complete some of those fab work? BUT GREAT BUILD THOUGH!
Hi there, is it alright if i can ask you a few questions about this build? How did the 318ci gearbox hold up for you, is it still going? How much whp were you running with that set up and how was the 330ci clutch because I'm looking to have a street friendly drift build
