Looking to get e85 set up on my RB20 s13 build. Secured a walbro 450 pump. Looking into a new intake manifold with a fuel rail and 1000cc injectors(with stainless internals) and a 90mm throttle body spacer. What else am I going to be looking at for doing an e85/flex fuel kit. Recommended fuel lines? Filters? Any help or knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to make some more power before camming and picking up a hks 2530 or HY35 turbo to replace my rb25 spinny boi.
Have a hunt around on the Australia forums to see what they use for E85 on RB20's. Both E85 & RB20's are used in wide circulation there. The Freddy intakes do the job if you get the mating surfaces linished. DW injectors seem to be flavour of the month in the US, and their rails look the goods too. If you want to go cheaper then Siemens top feed injectors are a good shout, but watch out with cheap/eBay fuel rails as the spacing of the injectors tends not to line up with the injector ports on the intake. As for fuel lines, keep the hard lines as you won't be outflowing them with an RB20 on E85, even at 20psi on a Holset. Swap out the old factory rubber hoses (front & rear, and submersible for the in-tank) for ethanol rated lines - changing the rubber lines is worth doing anyway as they'd be pretty old & crusty as it is. Can't comment on the fuel filter sorry and may pay to check your factory FPR won't get chewed out by the ethanol. Also, wouldn't bother with cams (stock are good up to 450hp) and a 2530 unless it's been rebuilt. They're pretty old tech now, but there are a few companies out there offering recores. I've got a recored HKS2540 from MMP Turbos who do Animal Style's turbos, complete with the HKS 0.64 RB20/25 housing. Would recommend!
Figured I'd do Cams while most of the top end will be open as I do upgraded valve springs and head studs. Thought might as well put a semi aggressive cam in to try and cut down how sluggish the motor is before 4k. Think a better matched up turbo and cams will eliminate the most common problem in this motor. I'll look into MMP turbos and give them a shout about a 2540. Any good places to look on ethanol rated lines? Attached is the intake manifold I was very interested in. {}
You're not going to be able to get much out of an RB20 below 4k, but the beauty of those motors are that you can rev them to 8k, so you still get a good power band By all means swap out the springs & throw in fresh stem seals, but cams aren't going to help get you any low down power. ARP head studs and a good MLS headgasket are a good shout too. Reconditioned / recored HKS GT25 turbos are a good option if you're staying stock exhaust manifold, but not if you're going top mount so that'll be your deciding factor. You can port-match the factory manifold to the head and to the turbine housing to maximise it, but it starts becoming a restriction at around 350-375hp at the wheels. That intake manifold looks the goods, so I'm guessing you've got a reasonable budget on hand. What's the background on the motor? Is it apart at the moment or is it running and this an upgrade exercise?
Motor is currently running, these are some changes I wanted to make before getting it on the Dyno and getting it tuned. The motor also from the owner before me has "built" the bottom end with some forged pieces. Lacking his exact list at this exact moment lol. Figured getting top of the head with some upgraded parts and head studs. I would personally feel safe hitting it with 20 psi and not start throwing rods or lifting the head. Currently the goal is 500 rwhp. Trying to take progressive steps to make that as safe as possible. In my head, fuel and 20 psi is the easiest way to that goal. Figured I was going to have to do an after market exhaust manifold. Main things on my radar are ECU, Intake manifold, turbo, exhaust manifold, and fuel lines.
500 wheel out of an RB20 is pushing it, even with a forged bottom end. For exhaust manifold you can't go past Sinco's or 6boost. Sinco's have a lifetime warranty and cost less, and are well proven on RB engines. Link ECU offer the GTSLink which is a full standalone ECU that plugs into your factory harness ECU plug that can run MAP/speed density. Not many standalone's offer the ability to plug straight in and have the ability to run MAP/speed density An HY35 / HE341 will push the cfm you need, but if you're going top mount then you'd probably want to go with something externally gated. You can get turbine housings for those Holsets in single scroll and external gate which would be the easier option. Sure you could go twin scroll on the manifold and twin scroll housing, but then you're looking at 2x wastegates and all the extra piping on the side of the engine bay that needs to fit a steering shaft as well. If it was me i'd go single scroll and single wastegate Goodluck, throw up your Insta or start a build thread, keen to see how this comes out
Appreciate the advice and input my friend. You can find my build on insta @ rb_june. Have quite a few options to scatter through, but I'm sure I'll be able to find something that will piece together nicely.
Sweet, yeah throw up any questions you have Stav's old thread on his HE341 RB20 is a good start if you have time: https://www.driftworks.com/forum/th...-big-turbo-big-power-but-small-budget.187808/
