Okay people Ive got a few questions about my 1999 s14a that I could really do with being answered and explained if you could take the time Id really appreciate it! Okay so recently Ive had my flywheel, clutch and starter motor all replaced. As soon as I felt my clutch started to slip I bought the parts and booked it in to be replaced, all has been replaced and they are completely fine. So when my clutch was slipping I felt that because it took alot more revs to get up to speed it was causing my turbo (stock, never been changed) to lag really quite noticeably, now the lag has progressively gotten worse and sometimes it wont spool up at all.... Now lately Ive really avoided trying to spool the turbo and avoid boost, ive only started just using the car just for commuting to work. So the mileage is currently sat at 89,000, ive owned the car since 65,000 miles and ive replaced the oil every 5000 miles. now ive also noticed the car has started to idle quite rough too, a weird thing is that when I sometime turn the steering wheel full lock it really struggles to stay alive (i do not drift my car). Okay so I did the wiring harness loom tuck under the drivers wing, the wiring is still visible coming from the firewall, there is a dirt build up but no visible chafing or damage. could this be something to do why it nearly stalls when turning the wheel full lock? Also the turbo I think maybe on its way out or could be fine, maybe other factors causing it not to preform like it would normally do? I have a japspeed front mount intercooler on and a blitz cold air intake and thats about as modified as it gets in the engine bay. could this be: Boost leaks coils Plugs could it be something to do with the timing chain? I have nightmares about this as I used to own a BMW and the guide snapped on that and bits fell into the sump. If youve come this far thanks for reading and I am eager to hear your input! cheers Notty
Definitely sounds like a vac/boost leak to me. Baked bean can with a hole drilled in the bottom and tyre valve fitted will do the job to pressure test your pipework.
Okay this is relief to hear as somebody else has also said the same, Going to take the bumper off tomorrow and check the fmic piping and vacum lines over. thanks for responding Ill let you know how I get on if you dont mind!
While you're checking for boost leaks check if you've got oil in the compressor wheel intake (would indicate a blown turbo). Also, check the manifold-turbo exhaust housing nuts. Chances are they are loose and you've got a blown gasket and all your back pressure is escaping. If you've got an aftermarket exhaust without a flexi, get one fitted. They reduce the vibrations and impacts that cause this to happen faster than normal. If all that is fine, another thing to consider is the AFM. Try unplugging the AFM while it's running and see if the idle changes. If it doesn't, AFM is bung.
okay so Ive checked all the piping over and there doesent seem to be any boost leaks anywhere, unplugged the MAF and it idled worse than before so Its not that. Hower Ive taken the heatshield off the exhaust manifold and I can see there are is alot of oil marks which look to be pretty fresh. I think that this would indicate that the Turbos seals have blown and thats where the oil is coming from? here are some pictures Ive taken to show you. If it definetly is the turbo which has blown then: can i get a secondhand one? How much will a rebuild cost? cheers Notty
Picture isn't coming up for me Are you 100% sure the turbo is still connected to the manifold? Are all 4 nuts still there and is the turbo-manifold mating surface 100% sealed?
To be honest I am not sure no, I’ve took the best shield off to see somewhat closer but the turbo is right under the manifold, what needs to come off to get the manifold off?
Pull the inlet pipe off the turbo and feel for play. It's far more likely a leak than a blown turbo. Potentially your actuator may have failed open and not build any boost. Pull the rod on the side of the turbo an see it moves and returns.
