What injectors are you running? Mine behaved a bit like that when I had larger injectors on the stock ECU. And have you verified that you have spark on all cylinders? You probably have since it idles okay though... Also, have you tried switching back to your old coil setup? Just to see if the problem goes away, trying to narrow it down a bit.
Just the stock sr20det injectors, yes spark on all 4 but was misfiring quite bad at first but now idles ok. Well before I had an s14 setup but now I've changed the loom to a S15 and went straight for the R8 coil packs so never actually had stock s15 coils or even ran the engine on the s15 setup before this. . Idles ok . Struggles to rev up then dies when you let off or nearly dies and comes back up . Hard to start . Smells rich and getting some blue smoke from the exhaust. Today/tomorrow I'll get the injectors out to see if the o-rings are leaking or anything also do the boost leak test. Think it would matter if I haven't got a stock turbo/exhaust/intercooler and so on with the stock ECU?
Can you take another photo of the engine bay? Just want to see if there's anything obvious Also, factory FPR or aftermarket?
Had a tinker today, bought a new battery as the other seemed weak and wouldn't hold charge so can rule that out. Took off and cleaned icav to also rule that out but still no change. Checked injectors and no leaky o-rings and they spray fine with non of them stuck open or anything. Checked timing again but still fine. Did a leak test and had a few which I fixed but bov was the worst so removed that for now and now I've got no leaks. Had it started for a few minutes but had to keep revving it slightly to keep it running otherwise it drops right down in revs and tries to die, so I kept revving it up which is lumpy and misfires sometimes but also pops out of the exhaust alot so guessing it's super rich? Couple times it's as if it backfired through the turbo inlet if that makes sense? Like a little pop time noise from the turbo side?
Had a little time to check a few more things. Tested voltages and tps was out so set that back up how it should be 0.45 closed wot 5v. So then started it and still rough and terrible but I then unplugged the MAF and started it again but this time it idles ok still not perfect but it idles on its own without dieing. I checked the voltages and I'm getting 12v on the power but the other 2 wires I'm getting nothing, am I right in thinking 1 is ground and other is signal which should be 5v? But I'm getting nothing.
you have all thi shit to make in work its tragik if you get one s14 engine now you are ok sometimes go for better and get worse
One is definitely signal so there should be something coming from it. What type of AFM are you using?
Just a stock sr20det, is it the AFM or wiring before the AFM? If I unplug the AFM and check the pins on the plug should there still be somthing going to the signal or does it have to be plugged in and so on. Also would that course it to run really rich, plugs are black and sooty but not wet.
You should be able to measure 12V from the plug, but nothing on the signal. The AFM needs to be plugged in to then send a signal back to the ECU Best way is to plug the AFM into the plug, get the car running then try slide your multimeter probe down the signal wire going into the plug and see if you can contact it where it's bare
From the service manual the wiring for the AFM should be: Pin 1: Signal + Pin 2: Signal - Pin 3: +12 and the shield needs to be grounded There is also this for diagnostics {}
Ahh right I see will check it like that when I get chance. But since it actually idles when the MAF is unplugged that points towards it being fudged?
If you are after a challenge, go for it, that’s how you learn - I think what the community is trying to say is that if you gust want a turbo sr it’s much cheaper and easier to just buy a det.
Matshui what did you mean the shield needs to be grounded? Maf seems to be reading what it's supposed to so can rule that out I suppose.
Speak for yourself, not the community. I'm 100% behind this kind of conversion, either through retaining the dizzy & leads or converting to CAS & DET ECU If you open up the loom there's a shield around the signal wire that needs to be grounded. Did you measure it at the plug? What was the reading? Can you also take a photo of the AFM & it's serial number. I want to confirm it's correct and you haven't been given some other AFM Another thing to check is comparing the signal you're getting at the plug and the signal at the ECU. If there's any difference then the signal wire is the issue
Regardless whether I bought a det this is a problem I still could of faced if I just chucked a det engine in there, I know the engine itself runs great as it was before I changed to the spec r setup and also the conversion didn't actually cost much more than a complete drop in det, it's frustrating at times like this but still enjoying every minute of it. Didn't know about the shield around the signal wire so maybe somthing I can look into. Had the car idleing, power read around 14v and the signal around 1.20v and it had only being running for few mins. I also did measure it at the plug. You know I never thought about seeing if I had the right MAF I'll get the details off it tomorrow.
Yup, S15 AFM. That's that crossed off the list Are you able to measure the signal at the ECU end of the loom?
