This - get some tyres fitted to the wheels first and drop it down and I bet you will only have to flatten the inner lip
Cheers for the reply’s... I will get a better pic next time I’m back home possibly in two weeks, the 235/40’s have been bought and just have to be fitted, it’s going to be a slow project due to working away but it will get there in the end!! I have ordered the Driftworks v2 black 4 arm kit for a s14 to freshen it up underneath, will also help to adjust the camber on the rear if needed, will keep the thread updated
Ive got 18x10.5 ET22 that fit fine with a 245/45 and some camber. Anything can fit if if you believe in yourself. {}
It’s been a busy few months at work but I’ve finally got around to fitting the rears on a frosty night!! I ask the garage to fit 235/40/18 but I’ve only realized now upon fitting them on the car they put 235/45/18’s on.. I think they look odd compared to the fronts with the bulkier sidewall any suggestions on running different profiles?? Thinking of taking them back to put 40’s on.. {} {} {}
Tricky photos to really compare but yeah 235/40 will level it up for sure. Profile changes are much more drastic to appearance than width changes imo
Cheers BenRice.. I’ve decided to leave tyres for now but the fittment doesn’t look too bad {} Next thing to sort out is a little bit more power.. I’ve had my eye on a hypergear turbo for 6 months or so, I’m thinking of going with these denso 750cc injectors {} and sourcing a link ecu.. I have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, I need to pick up a fuel pump, any recommendations?? .. it’s due to have the timing belts changed so I might as well do the water pump also.. would the n1 be the correct Water pump to use?? also received this from Japan :- {} it will be a busy Christmas for sure!! Cheers
What's your main reason for going Hypergear? If you're getting a turbo sent internationally there's other options available. With the 750's you won't need an aftermarket FPR. Factory FPR's are all that's needed, and anything else is just a reduction in quality. Not the kind of thing you want to do on your fueling system. Link is a good option, means you can bin the MAF as well. The GTSLink plugs straight into the factory harness too. Don't need anything special on the water pump, factory replacement is fine. It's the oil pump that people debate a lot about but if you don't have to rebuild it then leave the oil pump alone As for fuel pump, an intank is all you'll need. You can either go the tried & true Walbro 255lph or try some of the better and slightly more expensive options from Aeromotive or Deustchworks(sp) Worth keeping in mind is allowing budget for coilpacks if you haven't changed them already. When you throw a little extra boost at the factory units they tend to cry enough sooner rather than later, especially if they're the original units
Main reason is the exchange rate is good from Euro to asd.. works out to be around €800 for a hypergear art43 g3 rated to 500hp I’ve been reading good comments about it online and people seem to be happy with them.. do you have any other suggestions?? I found Garrett & hks to be around £1200.. had my eye on a Tomei arms but it’s like £1500.. That’s good to know about the fpr with the 750cc injectors.. I have an adjustable one lying around with an fittings but if it’s not needed then it will stay boxed... I have heard good things about the links and all the Irish drifters use it and I’m sure my car was running a link ecu before ( As the last owner stated to me he had it on one but sold it) I’ll have to add in the cost of a remap but hopefully I’d like to get somewhere in the 400’s (hp) with anti lag of course... not looking to go overboard with a full rebuild yet.. touch wood I have no oil issues at the moment! I’ll just replace the water pump and belts and change all the oils.. Regarding coil packs, I was on to a company called superfire and they sell the kits for the r8 conversion so hopefully I can place an order soon and get them in.. I’ll get on looking for a walbro 255lph, once I have gathered all the bits excluding service items I’ll get them put on and dyno’d... what size turbo housing would I be looking for? They come in .58 .63 .82 .1.06 wouldn’t know much cheers..
If the exchange rate is one of the reasons then check out MMP Turbos in Australia. Luke does an RB-specific turbo that has gotten very good reviews. He also supplies Nakamura & Animal Style (among others). I've run one of his units @ 1 bar for ~2 years now with no issues. If it's 400 wheel you're after then all good, but bear in mind the factory manifold will be starting to choke it. Anything beyond 400 and it's worth factoring in something that flows a bit better (and associated dump pipe)
cheers I’ll keep it it in mind.. I was hoping to leave the exhaust manifold till next year as they are nearly 1k for a decent one and I was looking into a forward facing intake manifold but they have a saucy price tag at €900! It’s going to be a slow project but I’m in no rush.. I only get to drive the car once every two-four weeks but it still puts a smile on my face Cheers for the recommendation I’ll check them out now.. any idea on the housing size side for the rb?? Cheers Ben.
0.63 is factory on the NEO engines, and fine to retain, but there are a few 0.84 housings on floating around aftermarket turbos that would be a better option for you tbh
Merry Christmas All.. I have sourced a GT3076R (internal gate) it comes in a T3, 82ar 5 bolt.. should that be a drop in for the standard ex manifold or should I go external gated t3 4 bolt? unsure of the correct fitment before I buy.. Thanks all
Hmmm. Got a photo of the 3076 exh housing 5 bolt? The factory RB T3 turbo-dump pipe flange is a 6 bolt. Factory Nissan T2 (ie SR/CA) turbo-dump pipe flanges are 5 bolt though. An SR/CA dump pipe won't fit though due to the way the exh housing is clocked I'd stick internally gated so you don't need to muck around with external wastegates, and it'd either need buying a new exh manifold or getting a port welded on the existing one (hard to do due to cast)
It’s been awhile but I’ve managed to get the car home so I can begin putting a few bits on. {} As I was trying to put a silly spin turn knob on the handbrake, I managed to pull out the spring and the long “L” shape rod that connects inside the mechanism to release the button I managed to partially get it back in but now the button has sank into the handel.. Any idea on how to raise the button up or would it be easier to install a R33 handbreak level for like £30 if it’s a direct fitment?? Kinda miffed that I broke it after 5 mins of getting the car home.. I’ve just connected up the manual boost controller and check valve but yet to drive it, I have 2 valves to go onto the rocker cover for the catch can but need a bung to block off the side hole (unsure of size) as the catch can is only 2 port & breather on top ( have an fittings & lines).. once the rocker covers are off they will be going to get sprayed along with F&R bumper, I have some cool paint from coolcustom in the uk. Will replace the half moons and gaskets when they go back on. Will be rolling to the paint shop to get the flaking paintwork sorted.. Slowly getting there but due to work commitments.. {} {} I also have a engine light in but I’m waiting on a Bluetooth Nisbie obd reader for a Nissan to try pull the code I’ve wired up the temp sensor so the gauges are sorted and all working {} I haven’t sourced a turbo yet as these small jobs need to be sorted first before attacking the engine bay.
