Yeah i always have been on all my cars. I like having a selection of cool wheels, plus there always there to be sold if/when extra cash is needed. If a set of MS3's come up i cant say i wont buy them too.
Small update, i fitted a new clutch kit and cubespeed short shifter. I went for the white bunny comp clutch stage 4 clutch and flywheel kit. I also got a standard rear bumper (cheers jb sauce) and fitted that last month. Made up with how it looks especially with the exhaust fitting in the recess much better, I will be getting some rear spats in the near future. Wheels wise i swapped the lips around on the wheels making a squared 10j setup (larger dish/lower ofset rears.) This should mean i can fit the s1's without cutting the rear quaters and going down the over fenders route. Ive just snapped up a Vertex forever wheel in the DW christmas sales too after sitting on the fence about buying one recently it would of been daft not to at 10% off. Ive also invested in some Street faction seat rails in the hope of getting the drivers seat low as possible. I now find myself looking at vertex/bride zeta seat as i plan on using my cobra sebring in my upcoming track car project. {} {} {} {} {}
Fitted the vertex wheel and got a couple of snaps testing my new camera. No updates on the car apart from badly kerbing a CST having a play on the quiet NYE roads. Just prepping the car and my spares ready to do some drift days now.
Quick question how did ya secure the rubber lips to the bottoms of the bumpers....I know they have double sided tape on them but did ya secure them any other way?? Thanks
Done loads of niggly bits on this the past week or so, fresh gaskets on the inlet setup, new knock sensor, service, nismo thermostat, fitted a PSM cobra downpipe and got myself a Datalogit to log ECU stuff. I was getting a high knock reading every now and again plus it was sitting at 30ish on idle, thankfully a new sensor and loom fixed this so it was only a phantom knock. I had pressumed this because even removing alot of timing the knock was still present (at low boost.) The datalogit has been really helpful logging and fault finding on a few issues so its worth its weight in gold. I also fitted a set of ksport 8 pot 356 brakes as the r32 gtr brakes were beginning to look like bottle tops. These are insane and too strong for the car really but they certainly look the part. The car currently feels better than ever and until the winter tear down for paint its pretty much ready for this summers activities. Although i do need to paint the rear spats and roof spoiler. Finally i got a set of TE37s and eventually had chance to fit them this weekend. 18x9.5 ET12 was always going to be a squeeze at the rear but a touch more camber and they fit. I dont really want to run this much rear camber so during the winter bodywork ill pull the arches properly. A tracking tweak was also required after disturbing the camber. (rideheight/cornerweight, camber then tracking is how these should be adjusted.) Anyway heres a few pics ive taken over the last few weeks. {} {} {} {} {} {} {} For more frequent updates feel free to follow my instagram- bibby_ps13
Been watching you on instagram dude, loving your updates and the car is ace! Also realised you are not a million miles away from me either which is cool!
Ok this has been a while, i stripped the car over winter (a-pillar forward) painted the engine bay, front panel etc and refreshed the engine with some nice new parts being added while i was there. The main aim was to clean up the bay, fix some oil leaks, try to make this more reliable and easier to work on. The parts that have been added are as follows. Wiring specialties pro series harness Greedy intake AEM FPR HKS step 1 cams ARP head studs Siruda headgasket OEM chain and tensioner OEM gasket set Taarks relocation plate Taarks PAS relocation bracket New IC pipework Converted fuel system to AN-6 Fresh slave cylinder and braided line New front bumper lots and lots of little clips, fittings and other misc items. Im not going to go into detail, ill just dump some pictures i took here, pretty simple job overall, strip car, strip/rebuild engine, clean/paint all brackets satin black, paint block and gearbox then rebuild the lot without scratching too much. Car runs ok now, just passed a MOT and is in for mapping next month. I'll take some finished pictures when its lowered back down from rolling road spec. {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {}
Forgive me for I I’ve sinned........ With my unit being in a old mill down a nasty gravel track and cobbled road there’s no way I can drive this out lowered. My plan was take it home raised up, lower it and leave it there on the drive. Meaning the car would live outside again for any period of time were I wanted to use it, then get raised and parked in the unit over winter. I didn’t like this idea so decided to give the driftworks aircups a go. So I ordered the 4 cup kit and a set of driftworks CS2s. Nice bit of kit (the cs2s are stunning and getting invertered coils for this moneys great value.) The whole kit was a doddle to install with the worst part being very basic wiring for the relay, pressure switch and solenoid. The kit will be used to raise the car to get out the unit then dropped back down and driven on as normal. This year I’ve opted to give 35 profile tyres a go too rather than the 40s that were on, mainly for room up front. I’m not sure on this look, ideally I’d like to swap to some 17 inch Te37s but we will see what comes up for sale. I’m kind of happy with how I’ve got it sitting, it would be nice a tad lower all round but that’s all she wrote on the standard front tubs and tubbing it isn’t an option. I also fitted a gktech sump guard as the sumps about a inch from the floor and sits level with the subframe (but infront,) which was obviously going to cause issues. Still haven’t driven the car properly, it doesn’t like idling when cold and needs a Map so that’s the next job before summer. Cosmetic wise ive gone for a OEM grill which im loving atm, Ive also still got the rear spats that ive yet to fit. {} {} {} {} {} {} {} {}
I know 17's are practical up front but 18's just fill it so much better. Hope the 35 profile works! Any shots of it aired up to show the difference?
Ill get some of it up at the weekend, it lifts about 40mm. Critically just enough to get out the unit. The 17s arent even for practicality, i just think 13s look great with a 17/18 staggered setup, 18s can look too big up front from some angles.
Little photo dump, cars been sat in the unit since its one outing of the year in June. Its not really enjoyable to drive on the roads at this height, but it looks so good so its hard telling myself to raise it. I need to mix something up though to make it more drive and driftable, spectating at matsuri has given me the bug again. Ideally I'd like to get some camber off and raise it abit, but these wheels wont allow this with steel quarters. I cant bring myself to change from TE's though so im not sure what the plan is..... maybe a 10/15mm raise and hope i dont hate it. Failing that ill have it sat like a FD car and enjoy driving it and never look at it or take pictures. {} {} {} {} {} {} {}
I used to drive past this almost every day when Chris had it. You don't see these round my neck of the woods so it used to stand out. The paint looked great from a few feet away. You've obviously massively improved it now. The car now looks even better than before and you've done a really nice job on the engine and bay. Loving most of the rims you've bought. It sounds like you need to start using it more to really enjoy it.
