bee-r problem

Thread in 'Technical Questions' started by chris d, Jan 27, 2006.

  1. chris d

    chris d Member

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    :mad: as far as i can see its wired in ok. but wont work the grey loop has been cut. the brown and white loops are still intact. Also is it normal to have a white loop because ive been told they dont. any help appreciated is doing my head in.

    The car is a s14a so if anyone has wireing diagram post it up or anything at all cheers

    chris :thumbs:
     
  2. mark a

    mark a Member

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    god ur crap, luck i was there to save the day lol
     
  3. 3AM

    3AM Member

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    did you get this fixed? I found that on the CA18det diagrams from the Bee Racing site, they had mixed up the 2 CAS wires the wrong way.
     
    #3 3AM, Jan 29, 2006
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2006
  4. hashiriya

    hashiriya EDC審査員

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    Ok so a couple things you should check.

    grey loop cut is the setup for 4cylinders so thats fine. nime has a brown one and a white one too and they should both be intact


    Also as 3am says the instuctions are wrong regarding the positions of the yellow and green wires.

    You will find that if you follow the position the wires are written in, it doesn't work but if you connect the yellow-white and green-black (i.e. yellow wire on the same bank as the power wires) then you should be ok. Worked for me anyways

    I'm sure brooksie had the same issue with his... he did tell bee-racing that maybe they should change their instuctions.
     
  5. chris d

    chris d Member

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    fixed thanks
     
  6. Doc Dori - Touge Thugz

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    how could they make such a fault like that ... like thats your ecu there telling you to mess around with ...

    ive wired mine the way it says on the site ...

    it seems to be ok havent reved it up yet but when i do that red light starts flashing ..

    anybody got the wiring diagram for an sr20det ps13 ?
     
  7. Brooksie

    Brooksie fuck off

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    missed this thread ...

    we work with Bee*R and have told them their instructions are incorrect ... they are looking into it :wack:

    Doc you get the wiring diagram with the unit ? .... also the red light should come on when you hit the desired limit ?
     
  8. Doc Dori - Touge Thugz

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    i wired mine the same as whats on the website ..


    looking at the ecu from top to bottom as its mounted in the car
    this is my wiring configuration

    on the very last plug on the ecu working my way from the first pin on the ecu lets ay there would be a left pin and right pin

    on the first right pin on the 18p block the bee r s black wire is tapped in here
    as the first connection
    the red is tapped in the pin just after this

    if you go to the very end of this block again looking at the ecu vertical on the first 18pin block the very last pin on the right i have the green wire tapped in here
    and just moving on to the next block16p i have the yellow tapped in to the firstpin there

    i dont know if you can make out what im talkin about but its the best way i can explain it

    brooksie you drive a ps13 silvia ?? sr20det any chance you could post a pic so i can see what wires you have tapped in to

    when i rev my car up the red light flashes but nothing happens limitter wise no bangs

    thanks

    hey also just working on this bee-r limitter i found out my car has a mines ecu !!! cool hey :D
     
  9. ColinR

    ColinR Member

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    I wonder if all the instructions on the Bee-R site are wrong. When i wired mine into my RS13 following the instructions it wouldn't start :eek:

    I had to swap the 0Deg and 180Deg Cam Sensors round.

    Not suggesting this will be the same, just voicing that I can't believe most of the instructions are wrong!

    Colin
     
  10. raff

    raff Member

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    whats this about grey wire having to be cut,i have mine fitted to my sr and it works fine,from above people are saying if you have a 4 cyl you have to cut it?
     
  11. Karan

    Karan Active Member

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    so does this rev limiter always create bangs etc.. and if so how does it do it?
     
  12. Doc Dori - Touge Thugz

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    yeah raff you have to cut the grey loop wire thats closest to the bee-r limitter box if you have a 4 cycl engine
     
  13. Doc Dori - Touge Thugz

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  14. Old Skool Cars

    Old Skool Cars Active Member

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    No it doesnt always bang. You can set the intensity of the bang through the "gain" knob...on zero u just get normal limiter as it doesnt cut your ignition and allow unburnt fuel in so no BANG! so from number 1 - 10?? it cuts the ignition for lnger and allows more fuel in etc and hence a louder BANNNNNG!!! :smash: Neat eh! ;)
     
  15. raff

    raff Member

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    ok it now makes sence why mine limits at 7000,when rev1 was set to four,ill try it out as soon as i get a new clutch..
     
  16. Doc Dori - Touge Thugz

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    brooksie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  17. Brooksie

    Brooksie fuck off

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    Hi Doc

    sorry dude .. i've been out all day ...

    when wiring these in please ignore the instructions on their site and also on takakira's site ... they're wrong.

    also there are some issues with these units and aftermarket ECU's .. if you are running a replacement ecu then you must ensure the ecu has its OWN earth ..

    it sounds to me like you need to swap the yellow/green wires round but i'll take a pic of my cars wiring for you tomorrow dude ... just in case don't try and re-wire it until i've posted the pic as we know my set up works :)

    Steve
     
  18. Doc Dori - Touge Thugz

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    oh ok maybe ill earth the bee-r on its on then anyway just to inure a good earth
    i await your reply
    excellent thanks a mill steve ...
     
  19. wkd rwd

    wkd rwd Member

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    i also have a beer problem, um, sorry....
     
  20. hashiriya

    hashiriya EDC審査員

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    I put together a translated how to on bee-r limiter fitting.. so allow me to share it with you.

    OK so here it is... everything i managed to work out in terms of fitting my bee-racing limiter

    http://www.geocities.jp/beer_imai_spl/pdf/revlimitter.pdf

    This is the instuctions in japanese please use it to work out the correct wiring plug arrangement for your car.

    For CA18DET/Zenki S14, use diagram N01
    For Kouki S14 / S15, use diagram N02

    Red top SR20DET user should use diagram N02 also.

    These pictures are taken from the Bee-Racing website and translated into english by me:

    Remove battery earth
    052s.

    Remove ECU from location in passenger footwell
    053s.

    Remove connceting plug from ECU
    055s.
    At this point, you should double check that your ECU plug is correct for the wiring diagram you intend to use. (N01 or N02) The number of pins should be 16,20,20,20 for N01 or 16,14,16,18 for N02 (looking at the plug from behind like in the picture)

    Splice each wire into the correct position. Bee-racing reecommend the use of connectors.

    057s.
    058s.
    010s.

    The Wiring diagram according to the instructions is as follows:

    N01:
    (from left to right) Yellow, Green, Red, Black (please refer to diagram for exact pin locations.

    N02:
    (from left to right) Yellow, Green, Red, Black (please refer to diagram for pin locations.

    WARNING: When i fitted mine, I found that the green and yellow wires where the wrong way round on my Kouki S14. I have heard that many others have had the same problem.

    According to Bee-racing:
    Red wire: 12V+
    Black wire: Earth
    Yellow wire: RPM Signal
    Green wire: Ignition signal.

    So if someone can confirm the correct pins for RPM signal and Ignition signal. that would be great. Those people who have an AVCR/SAFC etc.. should be able to work out their RPM wire easily too.


    Refit the plug to the ECU
    012s.


    Cut the appropriate wire for your engine
    013s.
    4Cyl = Cut Grey Wire
    Rotary Engines: Cut Brown Wire
    6Cyl = leave all wires intact.


    The white wire is used to set REV2 RPM. Bee-R reccomend that you use this as a launch controller by attaching the wire to your handbrake. I attached my wire to the handbrake but use it to keep the revs up but not too high whilst on the handbrake mid drift.
    014s.
    015s.
    016s.


    Refit ECU to mounting position
    017s.

    Confirm that all wires are connected properly, then reconnect battery
    018s.


    Start the car up (Car will not start if Green and yellow wire on ECU are connected wrong way round)

    Make sure that both Rev1 adn Rev2 are set to 0 and rev the car and confirm that it limits at 2500rpm
    019s.

    change rev1 and rev 2 settings and confirm that the limit changes when handbrake/switch is engaged.
    020s.

    Mount the unit to a place of your liking
    022s.


    NOTES:
    Most limiters are Type B. this means that the variable limit is:

    0 2500
    1 3000
    2 3500
    3 4000
    4 4500
    5 5000
    6 5500
    7 6000
    8 6500
    9 7000
    A 7500
    B 8000
    C 8500
    D 9000
    E 9500
    F 10000

    REV1 is the normal rev limit and REV2 is the limit when Handbrake/switch is engaged.

    GAIN sets the frequency and length of cut. the lower the number the quicker the cut. e.g. 1 = bababababa F= BANG!!!......BANG!!!...... IF you set the GAIN to 0 the limiter wil not function.

    There has been potential problems reported with Power FC users. The earth wiring may need to be reviewed for in some cases...

    Hope that helps
     

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