as far as i can see its wired in ok. but wont work the grey loop has been cut. the brown and white loops are still intact. Also is it normal to have a white loop because ive been told they dont. any help appreciated is doing my head in. The car is a s14a so if anyone has wireing diagram post it up or anything at all cheers chris
did you get this fixed? I found that on the CA18det diagrams from the Bee Racing site, they had mixed up the 2 CAS wires the wrong way.
Ok so a couple things you should check. grey loop cut is the setup for 4cylinders so thats fine. nime has a brown one and a white one too and they should both be intact Also as 3am says the instuctions are wrong regarding the positions of the yellow and green wires. You will find that if you follow the position the wires are written in, it doesn't work but if you connect the yellow-white and green-black (i.e. yellow wire on the same bank as the power wires) then you should be ok. Worked for me anyways I'm sure brooksie had the same issue with his... he did tell bee-racing that maybe they should change their instuctions.
how could they make such a fault like that ... like thats your ecu there telling you to mess around with ... ive wired mine the way it says on the site ... it seems to be ok havent reved it up yet but when i do that red light starts flashing .. anybody got the wiring diagram for an sr20det ps13 ?
missed this thread ... we work with Bee*R and have told them their instructions are incorrect ... they are looking into it Doc you get the wiring diagram with the unit ? .... also the red light should come on when you hit the desired limit ?
i wired mine the same as whats on the website .. looking at the ecu from top to bottom as its mounted in the car this is my wiring configuration on the very last plug on the ecu working my way from the first pin on the ecu lets ay there would be a left pin and right pin on the first right pin on the 18p block the bee r s black wire is tapped in here as the first connection the red is tapped in the pin just after this if you go to the very end of this block again looking at the ecu vertical on the first 18pin block the very last pin on the right i have the green wire tapped in here and just moving on to the next block16p i have the yellow tapped in to the firstpin there i dont know if you can make out what im talkin about but its the best way i can explain it brooksie you drive a ps13 silvia ?? sr20det any chance you could post a pic so i can see what wires you have tapped in to when i rev my car up the red light flashes but nothing happens limitter wise no bangs thanks hey also just working on this bee-r limitter i found out my car has a mines ecu !!! cool hey
I wonder if all the instructions on the Bee-R site are wrong. When i wired mine into my RS13 following the instructions it wouldn't start I had to swap the 0Deg and 180Deg Cam Sensors round. Not suggesting this will be the same, just voicing that I can't believe most of the instructions are wrong! Colin
whats this about grey wire having to be cut,i have mine fitted to my sr and it works fine,from above people are saying if you have a 4 cyl you have to cut it?
yeah raff you have to cut the grey loop wire thats closest to the bee-r limitter box if you have a 4 cycl engine
No it doesnt always bang. You can set the intensity of the bang through the "gain" knob...on zero u just get normal limiter as it doesnt cut your ignition and allow unburnt fuel in so no BANG! so from number 1 - 10?? it cuts the ignition for lnger and allows more fuel in etc and hence a louder BANNNNNG!!! Neat eh!
ok it now makes sence why mine limits at 7000,when rev1 was set to four,ill try it out as soon as i get a new clutch..
Hi Doc sorry dude .. i've been out all day ... when wiring these in please ignore the instructions on their site and also on takakira's site ... they're wrong. also there are some issues with these units and aftermarket ECU's .. if you are running a replacement ecu then you must ensure the ecu has its OWN earth .. it sounds to me like you need to swap the yellow/green wires round but i'll take a pic of my cars wiring for you tomorrow dude ... just in case don't try and re-wire it until i've posted the pic as we know my set up works Steve
oh ok maybe ill earth the bee-r on its on then anyway just to inure a good earth i await your reply excellent thanks a mill steve ...
I put together a translated how to on bee-r limiter fitting.. so allow me to share it with you. OK so here it is... everything i managed to work out in terms of fitting my bee-racing limiter http://www.geocities.jp/beer_imai_spl/pdf/revlimitter.pdf This is the instuctions in japanese please use it to work out the correct wiring plug arrangement for your car. For CA18DET/Zenki S14, use diagram N01 For Kouki S14 / S15, use diagram N02 Red top SR20DET user should use diagram N02 also. These pictures are taken from the Bee-Racing website and translated into english by me: Remove battery earth {} Remove ECU from location in passenger footwell {} Remove connceting plug from ECU {} At this point, you should double check that your ECU plug is correct for the wiring diagram you intend to use. (N01 or N02) The number of pins should be 16,20,20,20 for N01 or 16,14,16,18 for N02 (looking at the plug from behind like in the picture) Splice each wire into the correct position. Bee-racing reecommend the use of connectors. {} {} {} The Wiring diagram according to the instructions is as follows: N01: (from left to right) Yellow, Green, Red, Black (please refer to diagram for exact pin locations. N02: (from left to right) Yellow, Green, Red, Black (please refer to diagram for pin locations. WARNING: When i fitted mine, I found that the green and yellow wires where the wrong way round on my Kouki S14. I have heard that many others have had the same problem. According to Bee-racing: Red wire: 12V+ Black wire: Earth Yellow wire: RPM Signal Green wire: Ignition signal. So if someone can confirm the correct pins for RPM signal and Ignition signal. that would be great. Those people who have an AVCR/SAFC etc.. should be able to work out their RPM wire easily too. Refit the plug to the ECU {} Cut the appropriate wire for your engine {} 4Cyl = Cut Grey Wire Rotary Engines: Cut Brown Wire 6Cyl = leave all wires intact. The white wire is used to set REV2 RPM. Bee-R reccomend that you use this as a launch controller by attaching the wire to your handbrake. I attached my wire to the handbrake but use it to keep the revs up but not too high whilst on the handbrake mid drift. {} {} {} Refit ECU to mounting position {} Confirm that all wires are connected properly, then reconnect battery {} Start the car up (Car will not start if Green and yellow wire on ECU are connected wrong way round) Make sure that both Rev1 adn Rev2 are set to 0 and rev the car and confirm that it limits at 2500rpm {} change rev1 and rev 2 settings and confirm that the limit changes when handbrake/switch is engaged. {} Mount the unit to a place of your liking {} NOTES: Most limiters are Type B. this means that the variable limit is: 0 2500 1 3000 2 3500 3 4000 4 4500 5 5000 6 5500 7 6000 8 6500 9 7000 A 7500 B 8000 C 8500 D 9000 E 9500 F 10000 REV1 is the normal rev limit and REV2 is the limit when Handbrake/switch is engaged. GAIN sets the frequency and length of cut. the lower the number the quicker the cut. e.g. 1 = bababababa F= BANG!!!......BANG!!!...... IF you set the GAIN to 0 the limiter wil not function. There has been potential problems reported with Power FC users. The earth wiring may need to be reviewed for in some cases... Hope that helps