Hi all, I'm starting drifting and my first try is the donut. The car stopped and steering wheel turned, reving the engine at 6000 rpm and removing the clutch directly. My problem is that the car doesn't do a donut but understeer straight away. HELP what is this F****** problem ? Sorry for my bad english, i'm from Belgium. Thanks in advance
I've a PS13 1993 I think it's an LSD. The pressure of all my tyres is 2 bars (29 psi), the normal pressure. I don't know the open.
it'll have nothing to do with tyre presures or alignment settings, its down to how you're trying to do it, from a complete stand still on full lock using no weight shift technique whatsoever im not supprised it goes straight into understeer.
agree with above statement... would be alot easier to diagnose with a short video as since you said hard to explain in english... but if not try this....be in first gear, use a cone as your center of circle and just drive tight circles around the cone... at the angel/line you feel the car get light give it some extra throttle and rear should step out.. this will get you use to the "feel of the car", once you do it a few times you should be able to hopefully learn to "donut" around the cone using throttle and steering inputs... will be easier to learn than just dumping clutch and doing donuts... once you get this is when you would move on to figure 8's and such... also listen to the car and what it is telling you.. front tires scrubbing etc... take it slow and understand it takes a bit to learn but start out small and you should be doing controlled donuts pretty quickly....best of luck
He's only trying to do a donut from standstill dude, not entering D1. He either doesn't have the beans to spin the wheels because his tyres are too wide and too low pressure, or he's just spinning one wheel due to lack of diff. Jack the rear of the car up in the air and turn one of the rear wheels by hand. If the other also turns the same way then you do have an VLSD or a locking diff. Stock LSDs can be a bit old and rubbish for drifting but they should be fine for starting out. Also put your tyre pressure up to 45psi and it will help loads. Most people do this when they are learning as it makes the back go out easier. If you have rears tyres that are wider than 225 then that also makes it harder, especially at low pressure.
even if he's got a welder or 2 way the technique he's usingwill still result in immediate understeer, the wheels turned sideways and with the immediate lunge forward from doing it from complete standstill, there's no way any front tyres are gonna cope with that. try the wheel on half lock, get rolling a tiny bit, dial up the revs give the clutch a kick, then turn the wheel in more and you'll start donuting, it'll be messy at first and you'll propbably just do a 180 first time but then you'll start to get a feel from it and the rest will come more instinctively.
Had no problem starting to learn this way in my S13 with nothing more than a welded diff. Problem will be that it's one wheeling i'd say.
If you've got only 29 psi in the rear and the road is dry, revving it up and dumping the clutch is likely to cause a small spin of the rear wheels (or inside wheel) then bog the engine down and grip. Then car lurches forward and understeers as you're on full lock. I've seen it dozens of times at DWYB. Try 2.75 - 3.4 bar in the rears, drive a full lock circle at slow speed, then a small dip of the clutch, hit the gas then release the clutch. As your front is already gripping your rear should kick out. When the rear kicks out, release your grip on the wheel and let it slip through your hands. When it stops spinning, grip the wheel and feather the throttle to prevent a spin. With a half decent LSD or welder this method (amongst the many available) can work well. Give it a try... Ian.
Disagree. Even in a stock S13, if it has a welder/lsd, revving up and dumping the clutch is going to keep the wheels spinning. In 1st, PSI really isn't going to matter. As you're stationary, as long as the wheels are kept spinning, you have no momentum to cause understeer. OP either isn't getting/keeping the revs high enough to maintain wheelspin, or is just spinning the inside wheel.
My tyres are: FR 205/55 R16 REAR 225/50 R16 The brand are different also and more used in the front. When I try to drift in a roundabout, there is no problem and I think because the car is already moving. But I would start to do a donut around a cone to learn to do a wider donut.
Lol, fuck me some of these repleies are incredible. He's just doing a basic donut, and your talking about geo, lol
Most likely the diff locking is pushing the car onward with traction (even though the rears will be spinning) and overcoming the grip of the front tyres while on full lock. Just wind off the lock a little bit and you'll probably find it'll come round without any problems. When you're already moving obviously you bring the steering on (comparatively) gradually, rather than instantly going onto full lock. If you wound the steering on too aggressively even while you're moving you'd still get understeer, so it's most likely the same thing. Don't fanny around with tyre pressures, just take a little bit of lock off, and keep your throttle planted until the rear is starting to come round.
Will it go sideways from stationery at a junction? If the answer is no, weld your diff, if the answer is yes then man up.
Intentional point reiteration. People seem to be making this way more complicated than it needs to be. My understanding of the OP is essentially what I'm doing in this video at :34 seconds - except he's continuing around and around: Is a simple basic manoeuvre you all should be able to do, and I cannot comprehend how some of you are making this out to be so difficult. You don't get understeer from a stationary 180, or 360, on full lock, as long as your diff is working, you dump the clutch sufficiently and you are using enough revs. Simple as.
