Just looking for some help with my S13 rear brakes as I'm no genius with mechanical things. My problem is when I have come to put my rear callipers on after putting in new pads and rebuilding with new seals. I can't seem to get the calliper over the new pads as they are too thick. The pistons look to be as far back as possible and it's still 5mm ish off fitting properly/ the pads won't part far enough. Any help/ suggestions would be very much appreciated as it is probably an easy solution.
Also in the pictures it shows the tab on the outside but I soon changed them the around after taking the picture with not difference made.
They look quite thick those pads...? aftermarket companies tend to vary with the thickness slightly of the pads, not seen them that much different though. what make are the pads? are they new pads or ones that fit before?
Take a picture of just the pad face down so we can see if it's the right one. They should just go in no problems.
That's the pictures of just the pads. They are brand new EBC Red stuff pads I ordered from demon tweeks last week.
definitely sure that piston is all the way in? should sit flush will the body of the calliper? difficult to see from the pics...but as said they should just fit in
hello milsom93 Going buy the pic's there you need to get rid of the squeal plates that you have in on the frist pics, untill you have the breaks run in as with thoughs pads there is a run in break at the middle of the pad to clean the disc this will take about 100 miles of slow braking, then take the shoes out and put the squeal plates back in and they will fit Or you can grind down the run in part at the middle of the pad if you want and then the squeal plates will fit but IMO i would only do this if the disc's have already seen a set of pads and would't do it on new disc's. hope this helps
hello deanoc80 why do you say that? i could be wrong but im only going on the pics that i see where the pad has a raised center, witch iv seen before on pads to run in new disc's, you can see it on the top pic of the post i quoted on, again i could be wrong and sorry if i am, iv never used thoughs pads before but they look like ones iv fitted before? im just trying to help
in the bottom pic looks like your piston is still pretruding can you wind this in anymore, it may help, also dont use a screwdriver on the face of the pads as it looks like in the pic above try to pull back using the old pads or a brake rewind tool.
Also an easier way to change the pads is only remove x1 bolt from the carrier & open like a hinged door in place, but check on the rewinding of the piston.
Yeah I have done some research and didn't realise how far the piston has to go back in. The piston is still out from the body and having just done a rebuild I presumed it would have been all the way back in. I will put and old pad on the piston and use a C clamp to wind it back in (as I don't have a proper tool) and if it doesn't go too easily I will strip it all down gain to have a look. stupid me it was in front of me all the time. As for the screw driver on the new pads I give it whack to try separate them and a bit of paint flaked off and scored it so I soon stopped I didn't know that at first but when I did some research I soon found out but I had to remove the whole calipers to strip them down but I will definitely be mounting them this way. As I have said above I didn't realise how much the piston went in and just assumed it was home as I had rebuilt them but I now know the error of my ways. here is how the piston is now and its miles out. [/URL][/IMG] Thanks for help guys its been doing my tree in and will update you on the result when I get time to sort it out.
200sx.... The centre line is a wear indicator, not for pad run in, the chamfers at the edges are to help with squeal, and the antisqueal plates are like half a mill thick so would make no difference removing them.... As milsom has found the piston is still out slightly so this should cure his fault good luck btw hope you get it sorted
hello deanoc80 that to me is not a wear indicator but a break vent to cool the break pad and give better grip to the disc, imo you would't be able to see the the gap until you would have the pads out or caliper off, i always look at the edge of the pad to the disc that you can see to know wot's left on it but thats just me and its been a long time since i was at tech so could be wrong? the reason i thought that he would gain the 5 mil is because of the rivets on the back of the pads along with the squeal shims, i also thought that he had run in pads witch i was very wrong about also lol good one milson hats off
sorry man i can see now that thoughs are vents not run ins, my bad, id agree with milsom, it look's like you could push the piston on in an other 5-8 mill
if your struggling just undo the bleed nut it will go back easier and then bleed them well once refitted. should go back by hand.
Had a go last night to push the piston further back using a G clamp but for love nor money would the piston move back so I need to take it my uncles house to use his compressor to push the piston out so I can have a look inside. So attempt 1 was fail
