Hey guys, First time driving in a few months coming up and I will be doing a large track with straights that I would like to munji down for fun (as its a practise session). I find my car is super snappy on my transitions. Even when not trying to munji the car wants to whip. It is set up insanely grippy and with only 250hp I have to really throw the car to keep it sideways. I watch other peoples videos and sitting in their car and they simply just let the wheel go, ease off the throttle then back on and the car changes over perfectly. My car if you try that will just snap straight and wont go past straight OR it will want to kick hard and want to spin and I have to catch it. On most transitions it involves me having to back off steady so the car doesnt snap past straight and then use a little handbrake to control it into the new direction until I can get back on the throttle. I think what I need is to loosen up the rear a little and remove some grip? However I dont want to lose the speed I can carry through corners; which is from what other drifter mates of mine tell me is insanely fast compared to them. I am running driftworks CS2 coilovers and china made adjustable arms. 0 toe on the rear with 1.5deg camber and my traction arms wound as short as they go. My coilover damper is set to full stiff and running a 32 GTR rear swaybar. What can I do to loosen up the rear end a little to make it more slippery while not losing the traction that I have as I dont want to drive slower. If I lengthen my traction arms a little will that help? Thanks Brad
215 45 17 on a 9" rim. Jinyu brand. Generally brand new. Second hand tyres arent too bad but they generally only last me 3-4 laps before I destroy them so I prefer to run new to get longer between changes at the track. They arent a grippy tyre at all from what ive seen. My car drives the same on these as achillies street tyres and federal 595SS. I can flatten it in 1st and second and it wont spin. Put on second hand tyres and it will light them up under hand acceleration in 1st and 2nd. They are nicer to drive on but inconsistancy in second hand tyres means one set will be just about right and the next set will be like drifting on ice
That's a skinny tyre to be struggling with too much grip Up pressures and /or keep throttle on longer
exactly. I run 35psi in the rears so I dont get delam. Ive been drifting now for about 6 years so know what im doing behind the wheel so I can overcome it but its super annoying. I just want to drive like other peoples cars where it slides nicely in transitions and is super smooth. Mine is just like BAM and snaps. Its super fast on transitions and pretty rough. Only up side is as I said, I can carry silly amounts of speed through corners. On a small track compared to my mates setup I pull 3-4 car lengths on a 150m track and he has more hp and bigger tyres haha. I have driven my car in the wet and it was amazing. The extra bite in I got from the grip it has in the dry made it drive exactly like I want it to drive in the dry but in the wet. easy to transition, keep wheels spinning etc. My car isnt low. I run it with about 2 fingers gap under the front wheels and one under the rear. So my bump steer and squat isnt all screwed up. The car is built to drift well and compete in when I can be bothered entering an event and not for scraping on the ground to impress all the people over here haha. I think this adds to my grip. Do you know what the stock length is of a s13 traction rod? No one I know has one to measure haha. The shorter you make the traction arm the more bite and grip you get under compression/acceleration correct? So if I go half way between stock and as short as possible that should induce a little more camber/less toe in under compression? I dont want to just go adjusting things to find I have made it worse and cant get it back how it was haha.
About the right tyre size for the power tbh. For sure up the tyre pressures. You could also try stiffening the rear and/or adding a bit more camber
whats a safe tyre pressure to run without getting delam? I used to run 40psi but would get a few laps then the tyres would let go. At 35psi I can keep them going all day (I drop them until they sit at a solid 35) until I wear them to belts. I already have a gtr swaybar, which should be pretty stiff along with CS2 coilovers with the damper wound all the way to firm. Short of changing my rear spring rates which then I would have to revalve the shocks which I dont want to do then I dont know what else I can do. I may change my traction arms and go to 2deg camber? But once again, I hate wearing out half a set of tyres haha. Im building a new shell and the current SR will get a much larger turbo and bigger injectors etc to push 350hp but in this shell its not worth changing the engine setup. Also, the power isnt too bad. I run 4.4 diff gears. It does bog in 3rd and wont pull all the way to limiter hard. Kind of hovers about 5k unless im on second handies which are slippery. Its just my transitions. Im happy as with how the car slides while its sideways, how I have to drive it to keep it going etc but on transitions it just snaps and grips up if I dont handbrake on every transition to get it to travel past straight. Which when im doing 150kmh entries metres from a concrete wall and scando at the wall to initiate gets a little nerve racking haha - - - Updated - - - ill see if I can upload an incar video. Have to upload it to youtube/vimeo first though so maybe later tonight
I actually have quite similar problem/situation! I run stage1 SR wit stock diff, rear camber is 1.5 degrees 0 toe, and traction arm is 10mm shorter than stock, and I can measure the lenght of the stock arm if you need to know And for me the issue is in the 3rd gear, I can't get my transition nice and smooth, it's almost like I spin or go straight in the next corner which is annoying tbh.. Ok I don't have serious skills in drifting as I've done only few practice sessions and some street hoonin, but still, compared to bmw's it's very hard to do some nice transitions.. In the wet again it's very nice to drive, grippy and easy to control... The difference with me is that I run some scrap tyre out of my local car dealership... All in all it just might be my bad skills but situation seem to be quite similar to mine! EDIT: i keep my tyre pressure quite high actually... 3bar rears, fronts 2.5bar... tyres are 205/55 r16 all round on 9J wheels...
I just did a weekend with 60psi in the rear using 300+ hp, 215 on a 18x10 im also running like -3.5' camber .. it pulls away from Jite's s14a and Pete's Turbo'd altezza.. I have plenty grip and its the easiest thing in the world to drift 99% of the time. Im using a 4 door though, so longer wheel base.
haha how do you not wear out half a tyre, delam and sit stationary on the spot spinning with no traction!!! Last time I used a pair of tyres at 45psi I delamed them in under 5 laps of the small track we drift over here that is 1st/2nd gear and like 40kmh over a distance of about 150m. If you could measure the stock arm length for me hole to hole that would be awesome!!! I want to compare mine and see what it is compared to stock as I know my arms are full short. Don't get me wrong. If I was circuit racing my car would be pretty epic haha. Even drifting once its sideways its nice and stable, not twitchy and just sits there....until you have to change drift direction haha. My passengers get really thrown about especially before I fitted the second race seat. Its very fast hard changes in direction that become super hard to control. Even as I come out of the last corner and try to straighten out you cant just feed out the wheel and straighten it snaps straight hard and you have to put the clutch in and let the diff pull you straight (2way cusco so very aggressive) or it will throw you past straight and you have no choice but to nip the handbrake and do another munji even though you are past the no drift zone otherwise your gona spin and end up in a wall/grass/another car lol
See I have a 2 way aswell, and theres next to nothing aggressive about mine I also dont use the handbrake and im doing mid/top third gear entries.. My tyres last fine, they get owned because im drifting but camber wont kill them, toe will. As for the pressure, I put the pressure up or down depending on the temps and weather. In the MX5 its not uncommon to run 80psi. I dont worry about delams.. It happens haha people worry about too much stuff, Just get out and drift, stop setting your cars up to what people on the internet says and just do it so it feels good.. i.e. I run loads of camber and loads of PSI, havent had a single problem with the car I wouldnt change a thing either. My guess is.. Number 1, Driver. Number 2, Because its a nissan.
Have you gotten the alignment and suspension done by an expert? Don't just go off prescribed settings (if any). Tell the expert that you're experiencing and they can adjust it to suit. A well aligned drift car is way easier to drive. I run small 205/40/16s on the back (30psi in dry) and i've about 230hp in my 180sx. up front i've got 225/50/16 (i think that's correct) maxsport tyres. It pulls 3rd fully in the dry with a 4:3 diff, absolutely no bothers. That said i've a lightened flywheel and exedy clutch in there too which make the car more responsive when i need some power. Also ensure you're not coming off the gas completely before the transition. if you can keep the wheels just out of the grip zone you wont get a bad snap back. I know it sounds obvious but a lot of people forget that.
Brad, basically you have to much grip for the power you have. So you need to loose some traction. Delam depends on the tyre tbh, I've run 60psi and the tyres hasn't delammed. So you need to remove some grip, be it more camber or more tyre pressure. You won't wear the tyre unevenly, even if you do... So what, so I don't know why you are worrying about that. Anti roll bars are more relevance to transitions as opposed to overall grip. Stop being a fanny, up the tyre pressure and camber
50psi and man up I dont understand if its so snappy why doesnt it spit you out the other way during a transition? You must be using the throttle wrong, or countersteering too early. Do you come off the throttle to let the inertia do the work? I run a very soft and grippy rear, 1.2deg rear camber, a few minutes toe in, and it's super snappy, even with a welder. but it manjis just fine still on 225/45 at 35psi. I used to have 0 toe, dampers on hard and had to blow tyres to 45-50psi to compensate for my cack-handedness, so I'm wondering if it really is a car problem... no offence dude.
try winding your rear coilovers to full soft and setting your fronts to about 5 click from full soft. do some more figure of eights to relearn letting off the throttle to change direction. personally I like them when they are snappy, means you can transition mega quick.
I think I am coming back into the grip zone however it doesnt take much off throttle at all to return there with the level of grip the car has. It bogs down in 3rd and wont pull all the way to limiter it has that much grip haha. I will try back off a tiny bit less and see if that helps. Otherwise yes I will try more tyre pressure and the new allignment. Coilovers have linear springs? preload shouldnt really affect much? However it is all set uniformly as per the driftworks manual of 25mm preload on the helper spring (i think thats what it was) none taken. it does sort of spit you out the other way. guess thats what ive been trying to say haha. my driving 'could' be a problem however ive been drifting for 6 years now and I can get other peoples cars to slide pretty much perfect so not sure what mine needs. but yes i think i may be backing off a little too much on transitions however like said, the slightest off throttle gains grip I dont mind snappy. But it chucks you too far or grips up or not enough haha. What will going full soft do? wouldnt I want to go firmer to make it grip less? Will try it softer though and see how it feels. I started full soft and started going 2 clicks per lap until I got it where it felt best - just ment the rear is full hard lol Cheers dude!!!! So, should I be changing my allignment? Or just trying 40psi? the jinyu tyres I run dont seem to delam at 35psi so can try them at 40. Everything is setup currently by a proper machine but I have a portable smart strings setup that I was going to change the allignment with. Done my trade and know how to adjust it all etc and no reason a string allginment is less accurate to a machine. the local shop to me is a pain in the arse. Trying to tell me my suspension is on bump stops and has no travel and no point alligning it. But they let me do it myself atleast just means I have to drive an unregoed car down the street to the shop and too many police about to keep risking it haha. Wish they had a driveway big enough for my trailer.
Ok so heres one to throw a spanner in the works. I measured my traction arms last night. 230mm long bolt to bolt centres.... they are wound as short as they go though (damn china arms lol) so i always assumed they would be heaps shorter than stock. soooo. i guess that means im leaving my allignment alone for this sesh and playing with tyre pressures??
Yeah, that's wierd, as I think I have some ''noname'' brand, at least they are resprayed and can't tell... And I can make them much longer and much shorter if I want to.. I'm not a guru, but maybe they are from s14 or s15? And as I understand if they are longer, then you camber curve is worse than stock, because if you make shorter then your camber will change less on squats (spelling check?), and mother google told me that on lowered cars most guys in US make rear traction arm 10mm shorter and that's why I did the same...
